Oh, I think 4 or 5 of us will remember for a long time. The rest have already forgotten.
Testing the resistance of the entire mod
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The voltage drop depends on battery quality and chemistry.
Li-Poly will fare best followed by Li-Ion then Li-FePo("3V").
It is not unusual for Li-Poly to be rated 15C discharge rate, while Li-Ion around 2C and Li-FePo at 1C.
So Li-FePo has the biggest voltage drop while Li-Poly the smallest.
Using a lab power source will show no drop in voltage
Sorry had to revisit this post....
At 4.23v (The highest of tested batteries) with a 3.5 ohm Atomizer attached...The Draw is only 1.21Amps...since the 16340/CR123a's i tested with were labeled at 880mAh thats less then a 2C Discharge rate..
Now lets assume i have two of the exact same mods....One brand new from the factory...the other an older one where i had to resolder every solder point(I can't solder well)...without taking these mod's apart...how could i determine which one is a better proformer...
Wouldn't the Voltage drop test be the best indicator of Quality of a product?
Ayup
Bright spot from the thread, I've finally got it straight how to test under load now.
Scottes from what i read from this thread....it appears from the outside that no actual testing happened...it begins talking about measuring resistance within a mod, a couple people come in and say you need very sensative equipment, its decided that if they say that equipment is needed then all mods are created equal....With a couple of links here and there pointing to resistance of Metals...
Unfortunalty a mod is more then just a metal tube, its wires, switches, threads, springs, solder, paint etc. and all of those items play a part in the final proformance of that mod...i don't really know what was solved with this thread
Nothing was solved. The idea that an insignificant loss from a large metal body could play a role in vaping was a non-starter. It's like trying to cure a cold when the patient has cancer. It's about as stupid as extolling the virtues of the "solderless" mod.
Focus on the many real areas that need improvement.
Unfortunalty a mod is more then just a metal tube, its wires, switches, threads, springs, solder, paint etc. and all of those items play a part in the final performance of that mod, and ALL are potential points of huge amounts of Resistance...
I did a quick Chuck measurement, but all I can say is that the components (cap, body, switch) are each individually below 0.1ohm. I cannot say the assembly is. I used a Fluke 177 for this that read 0.1 ohm with its leads shorted. Every measurement read the same.
The only recommendation I can make is that the rod you want to use has to be REALLY low resistance (I would recommend 0.05ohm max); it is bad to extract a small number from a bigger one or from another small one, especially if they both are at the lower limits of your sensitivity.
In any case, we pull on the average 1.5A. On 0.1 ohm this is 0.15V. It is 4% of 3.7V. In power it would be 5.25W instead of 5.55W (this is what matters for heating purposes). The question is if this is enough to make a difference in vapor produced? Or, what value of parasitic resistance is relevant?
The only recommendation I can make is that the rod you want to use has to be REALLY low resistance (I would recommend 0.05ohm max); it is bad to extract a small number from a bigger one or from another small one, especially if they both are at the lower limits of your sensitivity.
In any case, we pull on the average 1.5A. On 0.1 ohm this is 0.15V. It is 4% of 3.7V. In power it would be 5.25W instead of 5.55W (this is what matters for heating purposes). The question is if this is enough to make a difference in vapor produced? Or, what value of parasitic resistance is relevant?
Nuck's right. The solutions was a simple sharing of knowledge. The highlight, to me, was that:
1. Any metal part of a mod that's larger than 40-gauge wire - which is 3 thousandths of an inch in diameter - has resistance so insignificant that it will not affect the power to the atomizer.
2. Copper wire smaller than 32-gauge can't handle the power and will fry up.
Conclusion: Any mod has resistance so insignificant that it will not affect the power to the atomizer.
1. Any metal part of a mod that's larger than 40-gauge wire - which is 3 thousandths of an inch in diameter - has resistance so insignificant that it will not affect the power to the atomizer.
2. Copper wire smaller than 32-gauge can't handle the power and will fry up.
Conclusion: Any mod has resistance so insignificant that it will not affect the power to the atomizer.
A mod is a either a simple tube that is used to conduct (usually the ground) or it's a soldered unit. In both cases, unless the maker makes a real mess of it, the loss is meaningless and will have no effect on the output.
The quality control on atomizers varies far more in terms of resistance than the body or the components we use.
If someone is trying to run current through paint, then I suspect they won't be making mods for long.
60 posts ago, I said:
There are *SO* many other significant variables... Juice, atomizer age, vaping technique, cartridge feed system...
I feel sorry for starting this thread - I did learn a lot, but a lot of time has been wasted in this thread after I learned it, and I feel responsible. So I'll keeping mentioning post 49 I guess.
There are *SO* many other significant variables... Juice, atomizer age, vaping technique, cartridge feed system...
I feel sorry for starting this thread - I did learn a lot, but a lot of time has been wasted in this thread after I learned it, and I feel responsible. So I'll keeping mentioning post 49 I guess.
So Scottes, Nuck, are you suggesting this thread has run it's course?
That to continue would be tantamount to, er....
That to continue would be tantamount to, er....
Can i just get clarification of one Question i have before this thread completely shuts down?
ANY voltage drop seen between loaded and unloaded battery Mods is simply a function of the batteries, age, strength C rating, Etc.? and is not effected by the mod?
ANY voltage drop seen between loaded and unloaded battery Mods is simply a function of the batteries, age, strength C rating, Etc.? and is not effected by the mod?
So Scottes, Nuck, are you suggesting this thread has run it's course?
That to continue would be tantamount to, er....
Just before this all dies, OTDirt... I remember joking with my dad.. "hey, pop... what was it like before dirt?"
Took him about 30 seconds to get it... t'was the last time I went running whining "yipe yipe yipe yipe....!"
Effected, yes... but it's such a negligible/infinitesimal amount that it should be disregarded. FWIW, this comes from an electrician of some 31 years, specifically a low voltage technician who always has a Fluke meter clipped on the hip.
An interesting discussion though...
Just before this all dies, OTDirt... I remember joking with my dad.. "hey, pop... what was it like before dirt?"
Took him about 30 seconds to get it... t'was the last time I went running whining "yipe yipe yipe yipe....!"
Yeah, you young pups
For the my "full story",
I think it's funny at least...
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