Raven do you have a Chuck and/or lil' chuck and a Meter?
Cash do you have a Protege and a Prodigy and a meter?
Why not get it straight from both the manufacturers?
Testing the resistance of the entire mod
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Raven do you have a Chuck and/or lil' chuck and a Meter?
Cash do you have a Protege and a Prodigy and a meter?
Why not get it straight from both the manufacturers?
If I were to give input, it would not be from the manufacturer... I don't make them.
That's why I said to measure the current passing through a 2Ohm resistor.
A 250mA fuse measures almost 0 Ohms (low cost multimeters will read anywhere from 0 to 3 Ohm) but connected between atty and mod it will blow.
The same is true for mods. Some could pass more current then others but all will read 0 Ohms if they are at least working.
It's simple: in a perfect system, using a 4,2V power source to feed a 2Ohm resistor should read 2,1Amps according to Ohms law.
If it reads 2Amps then the mod is good, anything lower: there are connection problems in the mod, usually switches or bad soldering.
All conductive metals in any gauge thicker than 32 will conduct the same so it won't matter what the mod is made of.
If it reads 2Amps then the mod is good, anything lower: there are connection problems in the mod, usually switches or bad soldering.
All conductive metals in any gauge thicker than 32 will conduct the same so it won't matter what the mod is made of.
a motor rebuild shop will have a Micro-Ohmmeter but you are on the right track. Try measuring with a DC power supply and concentrate on the amps.
I think you'll find the resistor is the best way to go, more corrosion issues with the threads of higher resistance tube material but it might work.
My Chuck vapes at 3.7 like yours at 6 with unmeasurable resistance differance on a 87, it's the copper. Someday I'll make (or get someone) to make one out of silver.
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I personally don't trust a Battery for this Caesar....i think your on the Right track but i would you a AC/DC power supply
Agreed, Not much of a difference in resistance to mean two Shi!$. Pick the one you like and vape on it. Or buy many and vape on all of em consecutively..
Slightly different current ratings, but I still say. Not noticeable enough.
Recently I have begun to think the heavier it is the better it will vape as well! And possibly the paint color that is put on it.
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Your kidding right?? I too have a chuck ( 3.7 volts), AND I have many different mods as well. Some running at 6 volts, and there is a big difference!!
I really do hope that you were being sarcastic!
not at all, you don't see the vapor difference (or lack of) delivered from a copper compared to aluminum with a resistor?
I don't own a Chuck, or any commercial mod for that matter, but if I did, I would put a lightning bolt decal on the body to ensure the most electrons getting to my atty, and I would make it metallic paint just to be sure. I'd bet it would have a throat hit like a pungy stick through your adams apple and make so much fog I'd have to build a lighthouse in my kitchen just to find my way to the fridge.
After checking the AWG page, I do not believe this.
This is what I believe.
As long as every component is greater than 32 gauge the total resistance of the components will be too small to make a difference. Thethinnest point in a mod is probably inside the switch. And that length will probably be so short that it won't make a difference either.
This just leaves the points where the components meet or are joined/soldered. I don't believe this is a concern. The size of the parts ensure a large contact point - except perhaps the contact point of the center post of the atomizer connection, and that has nothing to do with the mod, really.
So, as long as every component and join is larger than 32 gauge, and any thinner components are kept short, then the total resistance of a mod is negligible.
So, it is unrealistic to think that any mod produces more vapor than another mod using the same battery, voltage and atomizer. Comparing 6v to 3.7v is a whole nuther story.
Do we see why this test NEEDS to be done? Ton's of people believe this and its simply not true....Can i chip in to pay an independent lab or something? i think this is one of those things that needs to be a given to the community
had to quote this for a check on people doing REAL workFor What's its worth ... About 1.5 weeks ago, I tested different contact posts within the Prodigy, made from several different materials .... These were the results ...
COMPONENTS TESTED:
Batteries:
(2) RCR123a Tenergy Lifepo4 750mAh batteries (100% fully charged)
Atomizer Tested With:
DSE901 Atomizer - reading of 2.9ohms
Switch:
Resistorless, built from several different materials
Materials: (Mind you, RESULTS are LOAD tested)
Brass: 5.87v
Copper: 5.89v
0-1 Steel: 5.92v
Aluminum: 5.75v
A-2 Steel: 5.91v
CRS (Not Sure What This Is): 5.75v
Stainless Steel 304: 5.90v
Essentially, our goal was to try and find a substance that could add enough resistance to the circuit to bring the loaded voltage down to about 5.2-5.4v without the use of the resistor. We were unsuccessful in finding one from the materials above (the materials we just happen to keep in stock) but we have roughly 15 different types of materials coming hoping to find that 1 that does the trick
and all our other stuff
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