The 20x1mm threaded clone frankenmech thread

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javyn

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Hey everyone. I have a few questions about specific mech mods from fasttech...

I am a happy owner of the brass GP Paps clone from FT, and an unhappy hcigar Caravela owner.

I was given the HCigar Caravela as a gift, and unfortunately lost the center pin from the top cap. The pin was too long anyway and the Vela tubes too short to prevent all of my atomizers from having a gap between atty and tube.

Since the HCigar and fasttech Vela clones use the same magnet size for the switch upgrades (different from the EHPro) I'm assuming the FT = HCigar on that mech.

GP Paps clone
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1830400

Caravela clone
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1540703

Anyway, without the top pin, the Caravela clone is useless to me. I tried swapping out the top cap from my Paps clone to the Vela, but because of the short Vela tubes, it was a no-go. I can't even get the Paps topcap to screw into the Vela tube when a battery is in there (even flat top), and the tubes are too short even for me to use my Heron/Puffin style hybrid atty!

A potential cheap solution to this problem may be the M20x1 hybrid adapter from FT..

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1931400

But, I just won't know until I order it I guess (or someone here who has tried this combo wants to weigh in, hence this post!). I have heard to get a hybrid converter like this to work, it often requires magnetic battery spacers. I am assuming, since the Caravela tubes are so short, I will not need to worry about any sort of spacers and my atomizer should make a connection to the battery just fine without them. Anyone care to comment on this line of thinking before I just throw down the dough to make this purchase? Think the hybrid adapter I linked would solve my Vela issue and make this mod usable again? Please note I do not want to jack with grubs as a pin replacement to the stock Vela top cap, and I do not want to have to mess with magnetic spacers either. If that's the case I will give up on this mech.

Which brings me to my second issue.....I love my brass Paps clone, yet I also want a good 20x1mm stainless mech tube set, but I want to use the wonderful Paps switch on it. I have heard that the GP Paps top cap and switch work great on the below linked JM Mod clone...anyone care to confirm this? Do the JM Mod tube lengths lend to good connections when I throw that Paps switch? For giggles I threw my Vela switch on my Paps tube to try out...and it didn't connect well at all, even with my top cap's connector extended all the way.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1512600

So even though in theory all these parts should be swappable because of the 20x1mm threading, I found there are other variables to the mods, like tube size, that make this untrue without testing the combinations of parts yourself.

So, I'm thinking about trying the JM Mod clone with the Paps switch and top cap (I plan on just buying the 350 Paps clone for 10 bucks to have an extra switch and cap), but then I come across this Tree of Life clone...same threading, different tube sizes...would the TOL perhaps be a better fit for those Paps end caps?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1692000


******

So in short, what I'm trying to do is get some stainless tubes and put Paps endcaps on them, and use a hybrid connector to resurrect a top cap-less Vela clone.

What are yall's thoughts on that? Anything jumping out at you that says what I'm trying to do won't work with those JM or possibly TOL tubes?

Do you swap out 20x1mm mech parts? Which ones work well together, which ones don't?

I'd love to hear any experiences from other Frankenmechers. Thanks.

edit: I'm sure sectional and telescopic mechs are great and perform well, but I find them aesthetically displeasing. So, yeah, I favor sets of solid tubes. :)
 
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javyn

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Well, I love my Paps clone and want to get a real one, but, after I made my original post here, I find out that the GP Paps mod was never ever designed to sub ohm. I'd like that ability, so I guess that just negates my entire OP and throws a wrench into my 20x1mm freak fest. Back to the drawing board. I guess if I want to sub ohm I may as well just get a damn Nemesis :(
 

Froth

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There is a 1/8" gap that must be taken up when using a 20x1 hybrid adapter with a Caravela, I had to make a new negative battery spacer and modify the button contact with washers to be able to use a 20x1 adapter with a Caravela Switch. That was with an Hcigar Caravela and a FT Hybrid adapter, so basically identical to what you were asking.

My own solution was to buy an entirely different mod to scavenge parts off of, as I didn't much care for the Caravela button to begin with.

The BCV Surfrider clone on FT is also 20x1 and has a FANTASTIC switch IMO, I am currently using the 20x1 adapter and switch from the Surfrider with my 18650 Caravela tube and it works perfectly. The Surfrider switch is entirely adjustable so it alleviates the issue with the non adjustable stock Caravela switch.

$21.14 Surfrider Styled 18650 Mechanical Mod - stainless steel + brass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Edit: Fixed link
 
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Froth

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My uncle just called told me he gave away his smpl mod BC it arced and burnt him
Then he needs to be taught to use it properly, I've been using mine for months with zero issues as have many others. He just gave away one of the best 18650 mods on the market because he doesn't know how to use it? Wow.
 

Froth

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Heh! Probably user error. Don't you have to extend the middle copper pin in your atties to touch the batt in that mod?
Yes, you need to be sure that the positive pin section of the 510 connection of ANY atomizer you use sticks out at very least 1mm from the end of the outer threaded section. This will ensure that you do not experience a hard short across the 510 with any hybrid style mod or hybrid adapter, even with flat top batteries.
 

javyn

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He still has it! I may inherit it. Authentic brass SMPL. He was going on that since it is a v1, he read there were problems with the switch so he is convinced it's that...but I saw the atty he was using. Some Nautilus sub ohm something or other whose pin he said he had to push out, so I'm assuming when he tightened for battery rattle, the batt just pushed that pin back up and caused his short. I'm excited to get it from him to try out.

Vaping at 0.2 ohm on my FT Brass Paps clone makes my button hot.
 
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