The atomizer threads...exact specs? 5/16x24?
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there are 3 tabs on it .
One is your negative and the other 2 are your positive feed and return.
So instead of running your wire from a single positive and back to the same tab via a switch , you run it from one tab , through the switch and back onto the return tab.
I have the ones show in the last link part # ATSFOA-003
I drilled out the rivets holes, and it comes apart into two pieces, so if you got one of these it would be good to make two units out of it. I tried to solder to it after a sanding and still no luck, HOWEVER you can use the holes to wire to and either solder the wire in a loop to itself or I am have a small screw that fits threw the hole in it so i will try to use that to either solder too or just wrap lead around it. i will let you know. I am heading over to radio shack to check out the connector apostle is referring to.
For us UK modders the chasis DC socket that has the exact thread for a 901 atomiser is available from Maplins..........product code JK 10L BUT,
1. The central post (positive to atomiser) is connected to one of the three solder connections.However the post "sits" too far down from the surface of the socket to connect when the atomiser is screwed on.You need to file down the face of the screw body untill the central post is just recessed (as per a standard battery).The metal body is quite soft so this is an easy job to do.
2. The other 2 solder connections at the rear of the socket are NOT earthed to the screw body (they connect to the spring connector within the body of the socket which has no use for us).Now it is essensial the screw body acts as the negative (earth) so you need to earth the body to one of the solder connectors.This I accomplish by rubbing of the surface finish at the rear of the screw body and soldering a small connection from the body to one of the spare pins.This wire can be tucked away such that it cannot be seen once the socket is in place.
3. Allthough the socket is intended to be fitted internally with the screw body only protuding from a chasis this will not work for us as there will be insufficient thread onto which to screw an atomiser.I mount mine externally with only the solder connectors inside the body of the mod,held in place by Araldite inside.
Sorry for the long winded explanation but these connectors, once you have worked out how to utilise them really do an excellent job.
1. The central post (positive to atomiser) is connected to one of the three solder connections.However the post "sits" too far down from the surface of the socket to connect when the atomiser is screwed on.You need to file down the face of the screw body untill the central post is just recessed (as per a standard battery).The metal body is quite soft so this is an easy job to do.
2. The other 2 solder connections at the rear of the socket are NOT earthed to the screw body (they connect to the spring connector within the body of the socket which has no use for us).Now it is essensial the screw body acts as the negative (earth) so you need to earth the body to one of the solder connectors.This I accomplish by rubbing of the surface finish at the rear of the screw body and soldering a small connection from the body to one of the spare pins.This wire can be tucked away such that it cannot be seen once the socket is in place.
3. Allthough the socket is intended to be fitted internally with the screw body only protuding from a chasis this will not work for us as there will be insufficient thread onto which to screw an atomiser.I mount mine externally with only the solder connectors inside the body of the mod,held in place by Araldite inside.
Sorry for the long winded explanation but these connectors, once you have worked out how to utilise them really do an excellent job.
This connector really works well, it just needs more internal mounting space. Its longer than it needs to be for our purposes. If space is not issue, than this is the way to go--easiest. One tab/lead is left unused, best snipped off--a continuance test will tell you which. Remember you can use "N" or "M" size--the only difference is the center pin diameter.
This is from the same website you posted above. Under connectors, they have N types listed. I was blown away that you ordered that piece at that price. If this one is a N type like the one from Radio Shack then you would have two halves for two mods for the price thats right. But alas, they sell in increments of ten.
A month old, but anyone still looking for the specs-
Distributors-
mouser 163-4305 $2.04
spec sheet: ø8 x .75mm thread-
kobiconn 163-4304 163-4305 specification pdf
digi-key CP-6-ND $1.95
spec sheet: 5/16-32 thread-
cui PJ-005B specification pdf
newark 84N1160 $1.76
spec sheet: 5/16-32 thread-
spc technology 84N1160 specification pdf
Retail-
all electronics DCJ-28 $1.00
all electronics DCJ-25 and DCJ-21 $2.20 (scroll down the page)
action electronics 2112B $2.45 (scroll down the page)
My money is on the ø8 x .75mm size, being China is the manufacturing country.
Distributors-
mouser 163-4305 $2.04
spec sheet: ø8 x .75mm thread-
kobiconn 163-4304 163-4305 specification pdf
digi-key CP-6-ND $1.95
spec sheet: 5/16-32 thread-
cui PJ-005B specification pdf
newark 84N1160 $1.76
spec sheet: 5/16-32 thread-
spc technology 84N1160 specification pdf
Retail-
all electronics DCJ-28 $1.00
all electronics DCJ-25 and DCJ-21 $2.20 (scroll down the page)
action electronics 2112B $2.45 (scroll down the page)
My money is on the ø8 x .75mm size, being China is the manufacturing country.
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