~The Billet BoX~

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DPLongo22

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Dumb noob question - how do the markings on the voltage dial work?
I believe you actually turn 'counter-clockwise' to increase the voltage - but I still can't work out the markings?
HELP please? Sorry for the stupid question.
Thanks!

Hi Tom. The volts are in alpha/Roman numerals (IV & V), and the decimal spots are numeric, increasing from left to right (related to IV or V). So 4v being the lowest setting (IV, far left on dial) and 5.5 being the highest (V.50, far right...).

I hope this helps.

Coffee. I need coffee.
 

Glyn

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Currently using a Diver V2 with one of their stock 1.8 builds(reading 1.9), running them at 4.25v and the performance is very good.
My biggest issue is battery life, it's shocking!!!!
Using AW protected, so 700 mAh each battery, should be getting 1400 mAh in total. I'm going through 3/4 sets of batteries a day!!!
I have other vv box mods which use twin 18350's, I have 1600 mAh in total and I run 1.2ohm coils at 4.0v and I get a full day out of 1 set of batteries.

Why is the BB so bad on battery life?
 

willowize

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Anyone else ever have an issue with the billet bridge? Mine worked flawlessly for the first 4 days now I'm just getting constants dry hits, I've tried 4 different heads and even rebuilt one and it makes no difference, the only way I can get a decent vape is if I suck the bb like I'm trying to suck a golf ball through a hose pipe,


I've experienced this with the stock coil. I rebuild the coil using cotton and experienced this and figured out that I had to much cotton so I made a smaller cotton wick and the issue was solved. Very little cotton was needed for the coil wick and I actually put a small flavor wick on the top of the coil (cotton also). Make sure you prime the wick then put the aspire's cap back on then load it into tank let it sit for at least 10 minutes before you hit it (I let it sit for 30).
Also on the rebuild are you using micro coil style or loose coil style?
Another thing, if you are using the stock coil prime it also. You can put juice into the top of head with a needle and as said before let it sit 10-30 minutes before hitting it.
 
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StrikeIII

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Currently using a Diver V2 with one of their stock 1.8 builds(reading 1.9), running them at 4.25v and the performance is very good.
My biggest issue is battery life, it's shocking!!!!
Using AW protected, so 700 mAh each battery, should be getting 1400 mAh in total. I'm going through 3/4 sets of batteries a day!!!
I have other vv box mods which use twin 18350's, I have 1600 mAh in total and I run 1.2ohm coils at 4.0v and I get a full day out of 1 set of batteries.

Why is the BB so bad on battery life?

I use the same setup and I only swap batteries once a day. These are the batteries I use, which are the recommended ones to use, not sure if they are the same as yours AW icr 123 16340 protected battery

If you are using the Red AW 16340 I've read that those drain pretty fast in the BB.
 

Curtisdon1

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I've experienced this with the stock coil. I rebuild the coil using cotton and experienced this and figured out that I had to much cotton so I made a smaller cotton wick and the issue was solved. Very little cotton was needed for the coil wick and I actually put a small flavor wick on the top of the coil (cotton also). Make sure you prime the wick then put the aspire's cap then load it into tank let it sit for at least 10 minutes before you hit it (I let it sit for 30).
Also on the rebuild are you using micro coil style or loose coil style?

I'm using a micro coil on the re-build
I just can't get my head round what i could of done to change the performance so drastically
 

Doug Dino

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Anyone else ever have an issue with the billet bridge? Mine worked flawlessly for the first 4 days now I'm just getting constants dry hits, I've tried 4 different heads and even rebuilt one and it makes no difference, the only way I can get a decent vape is if I suck the bb like I'm trying to suck a golf ball through a hose pipe,

hummm, having a hard time seeing how air flow could be blocked.... the B Bridge gives all the room in the world around the bottom for air.... did this change happen alongside a juice swap... I had a few bottles labeled 50/50 that would wick fine, and other labeled 50/50 that wouldn't wick in the slightest.. giving the face of the tank a few pushes with your thumb should force feed juice on in, i was having to do this a bit with some G2 juice if i was hitting it more than a few times in a row...
 

willowize

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I'm using a micro coil on the re-build
I just can't get my head round what i could of done to change the performance so drastically

Me either. Maybe make sure that the billet bridge top is really pressed good on top of the aspire head? I'm as confused as you. The only times that I had the problems were as I mentioned in previous post. My first aspire head lasted for weeks. Since then it's been hit and miss and I've just started rebuilding them and once I knew the correct amount of wicking material I've not had any more problems.
 

Doug Dino

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Currently using a Diver V2 with one of their stock 1.8 builds(reading 1.9), running them at 4.25v and the performance is very good.
My biggest issue is battery life, it's shocking!!!!
Using AW protected, so 700 mAh each battery, should be getting 1400 mAh in total. I'm going through 3/4 sets of batteries a day!!!
I have other vv box mods which use twin 18350's, I have 1600 mAh in total and I run 1.2ohm coils at 4.0v and I get a full day out of 1 set of batteries.

Why is the BB so bad on battery life?

i swap batt's one a day... a full day if i "hyper mile"... 3 to 4 sets... that's not right... Are they newer cells? I found them to start really losing some life after 4 months in rotation. The Black ones with the IC Protection may be acting funny with your charger (or one leg of your charger) and cutting off early. The BB will however get much better life closer to the high range of the dial, as it was designed for a 3 ohm carto coil..
 

WhoDothScuba

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Currently using a Diver V2 with one of their stock 1.8 builds(reading 1.9), running them at 4.25v and the performance is very good.
My biggest issue is battery life, it's shocking!!!!
Using AW protected, so 700 mAh each battery, should be getting 1400 mAh in total. I'm going through 3/4 sets of batteries a day!!!
I have other vv box mods which use twin 18350's, I have 1600 mAh in total and I run 1.2ohm coils at 4.0v and I get a full day out of 1 set of batteries.

Why is the BB so bad on battery life?


The batteries in the Billet Box are wired in series and the mah for the now "doubled voltage" remains at 700. As DD said the Billet Box was designed for a 3 ohm coil, so running a lower ohm coil will use those 700 mah faster.
I run a 3 ohm coil at 5.2 volts, vape a tank a day and use 1/2 sets of batteries per day.
 
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Scubabatdan

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I'm using a micro coil on the re-build
I just can't get my head round what i could of done to change the performance so drastically

Hey here is quick vid I did on wicking ARO heads with surgar'n creame cotton yarn.
With the billet bridge coils it could be to much cotton, or the fiber material is clogged. That is why I like the ARO heads no fiber cloth material.
Anyway hope this helps someone.



Dan
 

Curtisdon1

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I did swap my juice over but as I mix my own the only thing I changed was the flavour/concentrate but it was from the same vendor, maybe it could of been thicker,
I have resolved the problem now by taking out the filling material from the top section of the aspire head and using cotton yarn instead of cotton balls, so far so good and it really is vaping great
 

Glyn

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The batteries in the Billet Box are wired in series and the mah for the now "doubled voltage" remains at 700. As DD said the Billet Box was designed for a 3 ohm coil, so running a lower ohm coil will use those 700 mah faster.
I run a 3 ohm coil at 5.2 volts, vape a tank a day and use 1/2 sets of batteries per day.

Ok, in series, now it makes sense.
Problem solved, thanks.
 

FringeChief68

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OK I need help :(

My Battery door is extremely hard to open. I watched the guy on the video and he can open his with just his thumb.
I tried the olive oil, even put it on the ball bearing. It takes two hands pressing as hard as I can to get it to open and then it makes a loud pop with it finally does open.
Door is flat not bent or anything.
It slides really smooth even over the ball bearing. I can go back and fourth the whole way to the top, But once it closes it doesn't want to open again.

Is this something that in time gets easier?
Is the new version different where it can't be open with one hand now?
 

glassgal

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OK I need help :(

My Battery door is extremely hard to open. I watched the guy on the video and he can open his with just his thumb.
I tried the olive oil, even put it on the ball bearing. It takes two hands pressing as hard as I can to get it to open and then it makes a loud pop with it finally does open.
Door is flat not bent or anything.
It slides really smooth even over the ball bearing. I can go back and fourth the whole way to the top, But once it closes it doesn't want to open again.

Is this something that in time gets easier?
Is the new version different where it can't be open with one hand now?

You know... til you said that, I didn't even notice it.. but I can't open mine with 1 hand either:). I gently squeeze 2 thumbs near the top of the door and slide down. It never occurred to me to want to open the door with 1 hand... anything that can open that easily can slide down and fall off... you don't want something that can do that while you're vaping away from home.

After you get used to your BB, you probably won't be opening it nearly as often as you do now... only to change the batteries or check juice levels... something you mostly do once you're home. I like that the door can't accidentally open. Actually, I like everything about it:).

What happened to our contest game:p?
 

Doug Dino

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OK I need help :(

My Battery door is extremely hard to open. I watched the guy on the video and he can open his with just his thumb.
I tried the olive oil, even put it on the ball bearing. It takes two hands pressing as hard as I can to get it to open and then it makes a loud pop with it finally does open.
Door is flat not bent or anything.
It slides really smooth even over the ball bearing. I can go back and fourth the whole way to the top, But once it closes it doesn't want to open again.

Is this something that in time gets easier?
Is the new version different where it can't be open with one hand now?

It will ease up with use, just keep her oiled and it will wear into place. but check the top lip of the door for any burr or little ding... the lid slides so tightly when new that a bit of sand or hard partial thingy may cause some sticking trouble before it "breaks in"..
 
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