~The Billet BoX~

[Crocky]

yeah, they're actually not bad. i'm surprised. i usually have bad luck with wick based tanks, because i tend to vape above 4 volts, and i forget that you have to start low with them, and ease your way up. i always end up getting a burned taste. i also took one of the wicks, and it's working great on my evic and my itaste mvp. pretty little thing, too. kind of a juice ....., like the vivi nova mini-they go through e liquid like taylor swift goes through men. (sorry taylor-you're a hottie!) but so far, so good.

on another note, i have to say that i am always scared to death when i am filling my bb tank or changing the carto (which i've only done a few times), because i'm afraid i'm going to break it. i know that tanks are coming, and i hate to beat a dead horse, but damn...i really need a spare or two or 4. i like to switch out flavors- every now and then, but right now, i am loving the flavor and vapor of my mr vape dk tab in my bb-perfect at 4.7 volts. i'm loving this thing!

I am with you. Ready for a couple new tanks so I can switch out some liquid. They are coming, they are coming!! Can't wait!
Will work for tanks.....LOL

 

[sgenn99]

oh-this may have already been asked and answered, but come on...444 pages of posts! does anybody know a good place for replacement plastic needle tips for the lure lock syringes? i'm in the market.

thanks!

 

[sgenn99]

I am with you. Ready for a couple new tanks so I can switch out some liquid. They are coming, they are coming!! Can't wait!
Will work for tanks.....LOL

well, we do need to cut these guys some slack. they made a toy that everybody wants, and they make these toys by hand, in shop. that's quality control right there! so, i can wait...lol.
i'm just worried i'm gonna mess mine up, and then what...? i'm kind of clumsy, but dd has made this device pretty idiot proof.

 

[Absintheur]

Another full tank and a half through the Raven...still going strong

and to help get the image of two guys in banana hammocks out of your mind here are a few of the things that were in my pockets today...

 

[Silverdove]

Thanks 2423kids the links were fantastic, it took alot of quess work out of if I'd get the right things.
Thanks to all the others for your suggestions with the charger Bet I read a dozen discriptions on different sites and still didn't know if I was gonna be pickin the right one.
Thanks Vapian I have read that FAQ several times and have it in my fav. list so can find it fast if needing to check it again.
all of you guys are so informative on here.
So 4 battery and a 2 battery case in case I go overnite somewhere.
2 packs of Boges 1 punched one not
the Q1 puncher
1 nitecore I4 charger
am I ready or is there something more to get?
3 different place sure glad tomarrow is payday for me. LOL
2423kids got the adaptor on one of these orders. But the place for the little tanks wont let me order yet something about a registration and may take 24 hrs or more hope not to long, sinse they are going to shut down for a while haven't seen those anywhere else. Would really like to experiment some on punching and inserting cartos befor the BB.

 

[rcoute]

oh-this may have already been asked and answered, but come on...444 pages of posts! does anybody know a good place for replacement plastic needle tips for the lure lock syringes? i'm in the market.

thanks!

I try that place waiting for

</title><meta name="description" content="100 Pcs Industrial 0.58mm Inner Dia Tip 20GA Dispensing Needles Pink in Business Industrial , Industrial Supply MRO , Adhesives Sealant , Guns Dispensers |eBay"><meta name="keywords" content="100 Pcs Industri

 

[fraghole]

Can someone post some more pics of the Diver in the BB, and special instructions if modification is necessary. New soon to be BB owner here, and need some info.

Thanks

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Silverdove]

Ahhhh-agreed! Anything with "Nite" in it has to be fantastic!

Kat am gonna have to try some of this gold or the other one bounty hunter from nitelite vapor haven't found anything that I like for too long yet except for Halos malibo and their sub zero. I've gotten juice from 5 other venders so far and some are just to week to taste much and a few taste like sucking on a perfume bottle. I like Ry4 from Appollo. Some have been sitting for 3 weeks. My last 2 have not tried any of theres yet EC blend and Parks. got about 8 to 10 samples on each of them. They been sitting 2 weeks now, 2 days without caps the rest with and shaken daily. Can't wait to find that great one.

 

[Vapian]

First thing:

Keefer, my sincerest apologies for not having previously joined with the rest of the community in wishing you the traditional birthing-day happiness.

Please know that in my bosom I am joyfully singing the official copyright-protected birthing-day song of our people solely in your honor upon this, unfortunately belated, occasion.

 

[Vapian]

Second thing:

 

[Vapian]

Diver(s) received and so far working well. With the aid of my trusty drill press and many other tools not intended for the purpose to which they were applied:

- De-flanged and (poorly) polished the base
- Trimmed an un-quantified but professionally guesstimated amount of material from the tube body
- Deburred, radiused and polished the top lip of the tube body with some ridiculously high grit intended for polishing optical fiber ends

With the base no longer flanged it seats all the way into the bottom of the tank and the body can be screwed down to 35mm even from base to top and to points +1.0/-0.5 smidgens, estimated. Gives a bit of leeway for variation as needed.

Included pre-made coil is about 2.0 ohms, a bit low for my taste. Visually I could not tell if it had NR wire or not, so if it does it's been welded seamlessly.

At 2.0 ohms it is very picky on voltage with my current liquid, working best at just a shade below the 5.0 volt mark. Anything up or down has a dramatic effect on TH and flavor. Will have to make a 2.5 or 3.0 ohm coil for it next time and see if it becomes more forgiving.

First draw or two with this 70/30 PG/VG liquid is slightly gurgle-y -- surprising to me given how small the hole is compared to the usual evisceration suffered by my cartomizers -- but that has been clearing up afterwards. Will have to try a 60/40 or 50/50 later. Draw is airy compared to a carto but not off-putting (especially if you're already used to RBAs with cap holes in the 1.2 - 1.3 mm range).

Pictures aren't really an option right now but I do intend to leave the other Diver unmolested until the weekend, post some pictures with comparisons and break out the calipers to provide actual numerical measurement numbers and such.

 

[ohman]

Diver(s) received and so far working well. With the aid of my trusty drill press and many other tools not intended for the purpose to which they were applied:

- De-flanged and (poorly) polished the base
- Trimmed an un-quantified but professionally guesstimated amount of material from the tube body
- Deburred, radiused and polished the top lip of the tube body with some ridiculously high grit intended for polishing optical fiber ends

With the base no longer flanged it seats all the way into the bottom of the tank and the body can be screwed down to 35mm even from base to top and to points +1.0/-0.5 smidgens, estimated. Gives a bit of leeway for variation as needed.

Included pre-made coil is about 2.0 ohms, a bit low for my taste. Visually I could not tell if it had NR wire or not, so if it does it's been welded seamlessly.

At 2.0 ohms it is very picky on voltage with my current liquid, working best at just a shade below the 5.0 volt mark. Anything up or down has a dramatic effect on TH and flavor. Will have to make a 2.5 or 3.0 ohm coil for it next time and see if it becomes more forgiving.

First draw or two with this 70/30 PG/VG liquid is slightly gurgle-y -- surprising to me given how small the hole is compared to the usual evisceration suffered by my cartomizers -- but that has been clearing up afterwards. Will have to try a 60/40 or 50/50 later. Draw is airy compared to a carto but not off-putting (especially if you're already used to RBAs with cap holes in the 1.2 - 1.3 mm range).

Pictures aren't really an option right now but I do intended to leave the other Diver unmolested until the weekend, post some pictures with comparisons and break out the calipers to provide actual numerical measurement numbers and such.

Awesome break down my friend. When you take that original coil apart you will see the twists of nr wire within.. very much the same as the gg approach with penelope and ody. I have tried not using the nr tails and it does not work well at all. Plus it will burn the insulator within the base.
I decided to keep the flange and just remove what was needed from the top tube of the diver and the 510 connection at the bottom. It was a very small amount from the bottom 510 connector and + post. This has nothing ill effect working in any of my other 510 devices either. I felt the flange would be nice to keep as it a rip the diver from going all the way through when installing.

My only concern is as of late after a few carto changes in the beginning and the the numerous fit checks with the diver
I have been noticing some (very little) leaking from the red seal and front cover.
I'm not sure if I should try and snug up the screws on the tank or not..
Maybe someone else could advise what I should do.. I will add only liquid to touch this is 710 and I have never noticed any ill effects with this liquid in any tank vivi or carto..

Here are some pics of the diver 36 hours in still working awesome.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Datalux]

- Deburred, radiused and polished the top lip of the tube body with some ridiculously high grit intended for polishing optical fiber ends

Some how I just knew you were an IT kinda guy!

 

[Vapian]

Awesome break down my friend. When you take that original coil apart you will see the twists of nr wire within.. very much the same as the gg approach with penelope and ody. I have tried not using the nr tails and it does not work well at all. Plus it will burn the insulator within the base.

Hmmm. In another thread, user Blix has reported using 30ga Kanthal with no ill effects.

But, guess I ought to learn how to make an R/NR coil anyway just to be on the safe side.

Only problem is, I have a firm policy: Every time I learn something new, I have to get rid of something I know to make room.

Maybe I can finally ditch my first driver's license number, how to recite the ingredients of the Big Mac backwards, or the lyrics to "Muskrat Love". . . .

 

[ohman]

As far as the nr leads.. i shipped trying without in the diver... i should mention I skipped them in the killer(similar design same cup) and it didn't work well.

Just watch a ody video on making coils that's the way I've always done it. I'll try and dig up a link..

Please if anyone knows whether to snug up the tank bolts to stop the seep. Lmk.
Maybe dd can advise. ; )

Must sleep long day.

To all a good night!

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Brandooth]

Hey Vapian, not sure if you caught the VapeTeam tonight but Dimitris showed a video of him in Greece last week with the company that makes the Diver. I caught the tail end of the clip but then did a full rebuild and stressed how important it was to line up the air holes with your wick tails in order to prevent gurgling/leaking/things of that nature. Hope that might help

 

[Vapian]

Please if anyone knows whether to snug up the tank bolts to stop the seep.

DD has sort of chimed in on this before (probably should add to the next revision of the FAQ), though admittedly this could be a different situation.

A bit of visible liquid seepage in between the clear face and the tank body is due to simple capillary action, normal and acceptable and should never get to the point where liquid actually leaks from the tank.
If you are 100% sure that liquid is actually leaking from the junction between the tank face and body, snugging up the screws might help but is not recommended as it could deform the tank face or seating and make the problem worse -- or in the worst case the screw could strip out the Delrin and never be tight again. Your best bet is to contact DD and see about exchanging the tank.

The most common sources of liquid inside the tank:

First, a form of liquid condensation (that's what I'm calling it, anyway) in which vapor back feeds into the Billet Box and condenses at the bottom, back, sides or top of the tank. This seems to be caused by an ill-fitted or damaged silicon gasket around the positive pin at the bottom of the tank, or possibly a poor mating between the top of the cartomizer and the brass ring. When this happens the quantity of liquid is relatively small and tends to remain in the tank compartment, though in one case after a several days on a tank I've noticed a drop or two outside of that.

Finally, damaged tank o-rings or a poorly-seated or damaged filling ball can allow air into the tank, in which case lots of liquid can leak directly from the bottom of the cartomizer.
Damaged O-rings can be replaced with the spares included with the BB.
To verify if the ball is the issue, hold the tank so that the fill hole and ball are oriented at the bottom as you are looking at the tank, submerged in liquid and press on the tank face. If you see bubbles originating at the ball, try using the plastic filling needle to re-position the ball until it fully seats.
If you still get bubbles from this area, the tank may need to be replaced.

Hope this helps!

 

[Vapian]

Hey Vapian, not sure if you caught the VapeTeam tonight but Dimitris showed a video of him in Greece last week with the company that makes the Diver. I caught the tail end of the clip but then did a full rebuild and stressed how important it was to line up the air holes with your wick tails in order to prevent gurgling/leaking/things of that nature. Hope that might help

That makes sense. I thought they were lined up but double-checked and mine was out of alignment just about a wick's width. Re-aligned now. Still get just a very slight gurgle on the first draw but it is good after that.

I had kind of picked up on this tip from watching one of the original videos on YouTube but didn't really understand the significance -- everything he said just sounded like Greek to me.

 

[finagle69]

From the Diver thread on ECF, the hole is supposed to form an equilateral triangle with the wick ends. Essentially no wick should be in front of the hole.

I filled a regular tank up with Bobas Bounty and my Diver, wicks fine but I'm getting an odd taste from the stock wick and coil.

Sent from my SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Vapian]

... Dimitris showed a video of him in Greece last week with the company that makes the Diver. I caught the tail end of the clip but then did a full rebuild and stressed how important it was to line up the air holes with your wick tails in order to prevent gurgling/leaking/things of that nature.

From the Diver thread on ECF, the hole is supposed to form an equilateral triangle with the wick ends. Essentially no wick should be in front of the hole.