~The Billet BoX~

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finagle69

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So I just realized that I got the black cartos instead of the stainless.. didn't specify to the guy I was taking carto tanks with. ..

Silly question maybe. . Can I still use these? Or is that a no go?

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Yes, strip the black wrap off then get the adhesive off with some goo-gone or something similar.

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Hokus

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Sweet, thanks guys.

Oh but I did get a pretty new drip tip

dehyzyjy.jpg


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klee6150

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I love my BB and use it constantly!

To my dismay, with the change out of my tank yesterday, I was getting a lot of leaking into the BB and mega flooding of my carto. Tonight when I again went to clean out the leaking juice, I discovered that the red o-ring was missing. Replaced it with the one DD so kindly included with the BB kit. I'm hoping that that was the cause of all my trouble.
 

sgenn99

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I know I'm probably asking something that has already been answered at least once. I need to do it, though. If for some reason I run into an issue with my Boges, where can I get NON flanged single coil cartos that aren't Boges (like Smoktech)? And can a flanged carto even be used in the BB? I am not sold on the Ravens as a go-to, and I'm looking for something I can prime, fill and vape all day. Thanks in advance.
 

Vapian

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Finally got around to dismantling my Diver/BB tank combo today after working great for about a week-and-a-half. Just got too antsy to do a rebuild. Got some pics ... wanna see 'em?

No? Too bad, you'll have to scroll past 'em.

A comparison between the stock Diver tube body and the one that was shortened. Shaved off just under 2mm total.
DPP_0002_zpsf55f200d.jpg


A comparison between the stock Diver base and the one that had the flange ground off. Took just over 0.75mm off the diameter.
DPP_0005_zps93abc279.jpg


Diver center pin in position. Not sure exactly how much was ground off, but it was enough to be level with the thread collar.
DPP_0014_zpsfc08bc51.jpg


Profile comparison between the four components.
DPP_0006_zpsbd28798f.jpg


Modified Diver assembled, compared to a standard Boge cartomizer.
DPP_0013_zps3b821476.jpg


Stock and modified Diver assembled, compared with a standard Boge cartomizer.
DPP_0008_zps3af832ef.jpg


First successful NR-R-NR coil build using 32 AWG Nickel NR wire and 36 AWG Nichrome resistance wire connected with reef knots - a solid 3.3 ohms. And ... it sucked.
For the Diver I do NOT recommend anything over 3.0 ohms. The Diver just doesn't hit as hard as a carto there.
It seems to perform best between 2.0 and 2.5 ohms. I used 2.0 inches of 32 AWG Kantal A-1 with the same NR wire to hit ~2.3 ohms, which runs great at 5.0 volts.
DPP_0010_zps819e0afa.jpg


Close up of the 3.3 ohm coil. The 2.3-ish ohm coil I eventually achieved has a couple more wraps around the doubled-up 2.0 mm silica wick.
BTW, I also don't recommend dry-burning to clean the coil. The discoloration you see in this ceramic cup is due to an attempt at dry burning, which did not really do a good job of cleaning the coil and wick anyway.
DPP_0011_zps5f47ba93.jpg


Diver in the tank, bottom view.
DPP_0015_zps9f5636eb.jpg


Diver in the tank, top view. Since the tube body screws on to the base, there's about 0.5 mm of play in the total length once the tube mates up with the o-ring on the base, depending on how far it is screwed down.
DPP_0016_zps1c6448d0.jpg


Diver in the tank, front view, filled.
DPP_0018_zpsbd44826a.jpg


As for wick position relative to the hole, I'm pretty solid in the "wick just next to the hole" camp. If I turn it 90-degrees out from the hole there's too much gurgling, and if either wick end is lined up with the hole it's Dry Hit City.

Now that I'm comfortable with rebuilding and pretty confident of the performance ... Maybe tomorrow, maybe next weekend I'll grab some pics of the modification process and maybe make a coil building video. Atmistique has already made one which helps a lot, but I might have a tip or two and/or some additional info to throw into the mix by then.
 
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ThetaReactor

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I know I'm probably asking something that has already been answered at least once. I need to do it, though. If for some reason I run into an issue with my Boges, where can I get NON flanged single coil cartos that aren't Boges (like Smoktech)? And can a flanged carto even be used in the BB? I am not sold on the Ravens as a go-to, and I'm looking for something I can prime, fill and vape all day. Thanks in advance.

I've got some Smoktech 1.7 ohm cartos that would fit. Got them from crystal clear vaping. Don't recall offhand if they had standard resistance, though.
 

Madriz

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Aug 7, 2011
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Finally got around to dismantling my Diver/BB tank combo today after working great for about a week-and-a-half. Just got too antsy to do a rebuild. Got some pics ... wanna see 'em?

No? Too bad, you'll have to scroll past 'em.

A comparison between the stock Diver tube body and the one that was shortened. Shaved off just under 2mm total.
DPP_0002_zpsf55f200d.jpg


A comparison between the stock Diver base and the one that had the flange ground off. Took just over 0.75mm off the diameter.
DPP_0005_zps93abc279.jpg


Diver center pin in position. Not sure exactly how much was ground off, but it was enough to be level with the thread collar.
DPP_0014_zpsfc08bc51.jpg


Profile comparison between the four components.
DPP_0006_zpsbd28798f.jpg


Modified Diver assembled, compared to a standard Boge cartomizer.
DPP_0013_zps3b821476.jpg


Stock and modified Diver assembled, compared with a standard Boge cartomizer.
DPP_0008_zps3af832ef.jpg


First successful NR-R-NR coil build using 32 AWG Nickel NR wire and 36 AWG Nichrome resistance wire connected with reef knots - a solid 3.3 ohms. And ... it sucked.
For the Diver I do NOT recommend anything over 3.0 ohms. The Diver just doesn't hit as hard as a carto there.
It seems to perform best between 2.0 and 2.5 ohms. I used 2.0 inches of 32 AWG Kantal A-1 with the same NR wire to hit ~2.3 ohms, which runs great at 5.0 volts.
DPP_0010_zps819e0afa.jpg


Close up of the 3.3 ohm coil. The 2.3-ish ohm coil I eventually achieved has a couple more wraps around the doubled-up 2.0 mm silica wick.
BTW, I also don't recommend dry-burning to clean the coil. The discoloration you see in this ceramic cup is due to an attempt at dry burning, which did not really do a good job of cleaning the coil and wick anyway.
DPP_0011_zps5f47ba93.jpg


Diver in the tank, bottom view.
DPP_0015_zps9f5636eb.jpg


Diver in the tank, top view. Since the tube body screws on to the base, there's about 0.5 mm of play in the total length once the tube mates up with the o-ring on the base, depending on how far it is screwed down.
DPP_0016_zps1c6448d0.jpg


Diver in the tank, front view, filled.
DPP_0018_zpsbd44826a.jpg


As for wick position relative to the hole, I'm pretty solid in the "wick just next to the hole" camp. If I turn it 90-degrees out from the hole there's too much gurgling, and if either wick end is lined up with the hole it's Dry Hit City.

Now that I'm comfortable with rebuilding and pretty confident of the performance ... Maybe tomorrow, maybe next weekend I'll grab some pics of the modification process and maybe make a coil building video. Atmistique has already made one which helps a lot, but I might have a tip or two and/or some additional info to throw into the mix by then.

Awesome job like always Vapian Thanks for the tips and testing!

Sent from my Galaxy SIII using Tapatalk II
 

ecosnige

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How easy is it to remove the metal plate inside and the ball bearing thing? My ball bearing after a week of use is all marked up and wont close smooth anymore, I need a load of them so I can replace every week also the black lettering is falling off.Any ideas what to put into the engraving so it all goes black again? or do i just remove it all so it looks not so tatty?
 

finagle69

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How easy is it to remove the metal plate inside and the ball bearing thing? My ball bearing after a week of use is all marked up and wont close smooth anymore, I need a load of them so I can replace every week also the black lettering is falling off.Any ideas what to put into the engraving so it all goes black again? or do i just remove it all so it looks not so tatty?

The metal plate is easy to remove with the right Allen size.

Once you have it off, pull out the ball and lube the rubber ball with olive oil or some motor oil, put the steel ball back and lube it too. Then reassemble and it should be smoother.

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rcoute

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How easy is it to remove the metal plate inside and the ball bearing thing? My ball bearing after a week of use is all marked up and wont close smooth anymore, I need a load of them so I can replace every week also the black lettering is falling off.Any ideas what to put into the engraving so it all goes black again? or do i just remove it all so it looks not so tatty?

Only put little olive oil on the ball bearing like DD said and the door gonna slyde smoly I do that every week whit no problem
for the black paint get off not much to do , I live whit that unless you want to paint the letter again , DD could stop paint those letter in black because it dont last anyway
 
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ecosnige

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All taken apart and sorted now sliding perfectly :) yea the letters are bothering me lol, think il get some paint and go over them al as i like it standing out.Il see anyway and thank you for advice/help works all smooth now :)

I do need a new ball bearing tho as it has gouge marks on one side where it was stuck and the door cut into the ball
 
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