The bolt and the kick

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jfoster1

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Jul 7, 2012
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I purchased the bolt and think it is a pretty nice little mod. All I have had was VV mods in the past. I have read where most folks say it really hits with some omp. Mine does not seem to do that. It seems very mild. I have tried new batteries fully charged and it just seems weak to me. I do not think it is the devices problem, just think I was use to VV and could always adjust it up to get the good hit. I was wondering if the bolt would handle a kick. Seems I had read something in the past about the wiring being a little weak in the bolt so was wondering if anyone had ever tried one in the bolt.
Thanks in advance
 

d3p

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The bolt is mass produced and cheap and so the wiring and stuff are indeed of a not very high standard.
However I have been using the kick with a bolt and 18650 and it works great, no misfires or anything!
To answer you question more directly: i do think this is the way to go; you can set it to where you like and enjoy youy HV-feel anytime you hit that button :)
 

cskent

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Jul 24, 2010
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I both have VV and fixed voltage mods. Both types hit just as well. With VV you match the voltage to the atty or carto resistance. With fixed voltage it's the other way around, you match the atty resistance to the voltage. I generally run 1.5 to 1.7 ohm atty's @ 3.7 volts (4.2v right off the charger), and it hits nicely. If you're running something in the 2.5 to 3.0 ohm's or higher range you'll find it pretty weak, so the first thing I'd suggest is to find out what resistance you've got.
 

fenchurch

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Oct 27, 2012
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I use the Bolt + AW IMR 18350 - 18490 -18650 + Kick and it works very well

With the 18350+Kick driving, what have you seen for vape time on that cell? The 18500 can easily get me thru a day of moderate vaping (lowest rez 2.0-2.1 on some Boge cartos in tanks). I was wanting to do exactly what you did, pick up a kick and use a smaller battery most of the time, just curious on the vape time.

Also, what setting do you normally run your kick at? 5, 7, 10W?
 

Cjax

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I use a bolt with a kick. Great vape, but after a month it started failing on me. It wasn't the wiring that failed on mine, it was the switch. Good thing about this mod, though is that even though it's an electric switch, that's all it is, super easy fix. Using a kick on it is great, but pushing those higher amps might burn out it's crappy internals. Took me total of an hour to gut the old switch, pull off the old wires, and replace them with those that rival a Silver Bullet. Now I'm sure my Bolt will keep on hitting for a very long time, but if not like I said, easy fix. Modders forum has plenty of how-to's to do it if need be.

BTW, I vape about 2.5 ohms at 8.5 watts and my 18650's can last sometimes a day and a half, but at usually at least a full day depending on the amount of chaining.
 

Rader2146

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I use a bolt with a kick. Great vape, but after a month it started failing on me. It wasn't the wiring that failed on mine, it was the switch. Good thing about this mod, though is that even though it's an electric switch, that's all it is, super easy fix. Using a kick on it is great, but pushing those higher amps might burn out it's crappy internals. Took me total of an hour to gut the old switch, pull off the old wires, and replace them with those that rival a Silver Bullet. Now I'm sure my Bolt will keep on hitting for a very long time, but if not like I said, easy fix. Modders forum has plenty of how-to's to do it if need be.

BTW, I vape about 2.5 ohms at 8.5 watts and my 18650's can last sometimes a day and a half, but at usually at least a full day depending on the amount of chaining.

Use the kick with a higher resistance coil (2.5-3.0 ohms) and it will be less stressful on the wiring than without the kick.

With Kick: 2.5ohm @ 8.5w = 1.84A

Without Kick: 1.7ohms and 3.8v = 8.5w = 2.23A

Less amps with the Kick, probably not the reason that the switch died. :)

But it is very easy to replace the switch and upgrade the wiring when it does go south. I managed to squeeze 18awg in there to run a 1.0ohm rebuildable without worry.
 

Cjax

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With Kick: 2.5ohm @ 8.5w = 1.84A

Without Kick: 1.7ohms and 3.8v = 8.5w = 2.23A

Less amps with the Kick, probably not the reason that the switch died. :)

But it is very easy to replace the switch and upgrade the wiring when it does go south. I managed to squeeze 18awg in there to run a 1.0ohm rebuildable without worry.

yeah, but when the switch died I was running coils about 1.5 at 9 watts. Since then I've changed my setup. I was only stating that because a pervious post was asking about battery life.
 
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