I have 5 manual batts, 1 auto batt & 1 USB passsthrough for my VX2's.
The very first battery that dies will be carefully dissected and I will probably make a RECHARGEABLE PASSTHROUGH UNIT out of it. I'll use some kind of FORMIDABLE rechargeable battery pack (at least 2000mA) and an LM338K/NTE935 variable voltage regulator chip (5 AMP RATED) to adjust for correct atty input voltage.....it will last for MANY HOURS and will go ANYWHERE I GO. It will look like a longer version of the USB passthrough and it will have a wire coming out where the LED was removed. The wire will lead to a rechargeable battery pack...which will last at least ALL WEEKEND LONG. This will be only but one of HUNDREDS of similar retrofit projects I've done. It should be fun. I've already tested the voltage of a freshly charged automatic battery and it peaks at 4VDC on my Wavetek 27XT DMM, using the MAX HOLD function. I just connected the DC test leads and blew into the air sensor/switch several times. Peak was 4VDC each and every time. Surprisingly enough, the center battery contact is actually the NEGATIVE lead...while the threaded outer barrel is the HOT/positive + lead....very interesting indeed. This should be a very EASY thing to fabricate....when time allows.

The very first battery that dies will be carefully dissected and I will probably make a RECHARGEABLE PASSTHROUGH UNIT out of it. I'll use some kind of FORMIDABLE rechargeable battery pack (at least 2000mA) and an LM338K/NTE935 variable voltage regulator chip (5 AMP RATED) to adjust for correct atty input voltage.....it will last for MANY HOURS and will go ANYWHERE I GO. It will look like a longer version of the USB passthrough and it will have a wire coming out where the LED was removed. The wire will lead to a rechargeable battery pack...which will last at least ALL WEEKEND LONG. This will be only but one of HUNDREDS of similar retrofit projects I've done. It should be fun. I've already tested the voltage of a freshly charged automatic battery and it peaks at 4VDC on my Wavetek 27XT DMM, using the MAX HOLD function. I just connected the DC test leads and blew into the air sensor/switch several times. Peak was 4VDC each and every time. Surprisingly enough, the center battery contact is actually the NEGATIVE lead...while the threaded outer barrel is the HOT/positive + lead....very interesting indeed. This should be a very EASY thing to fabricate....when time allows.

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