The I can't build a KFL Club
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Sooner or later you guys are going to come to the realization that these cotton wicks you have been using in your Kayfuns are only good for a couple of days.
Once you get tired of constantly screwing around with your Kayfun, you will replace that cotton wick with braided silica.
And no ... it don't change the flavor or cause dry wicking ... In fact, I used to get occasional flooding too with cotton ... not anymore
Once you get tired of constantly screwing around with your Kayfun, you will replace that cotton wick with braided silica.
And no ... it don't change the flavor or cause dry wicking ... In fact, I used to get occasional flooding too with cotton ... not anymore
Oh god no! I havent touched Silica since 2011. I'll gladly replace my Japanese organic cotton wick every few days to keep away from Silica. My KFL+ can go an easy week without needing a rewick. That said it's only going through maybe a tank at most... and at that point after a tank i'm going to rewick regardless as it's almost always a different flavor.
So do people have better luck with letting the wick ends hang down over the deck and just barely enough to touch the juice channels and then screw your chimney in place? or do most people have better luck having the wick stick out of the chimney a little and then cutting the wick just above the chimney and tucking the wicking material down into the chimney/deck area?
I have been using my KFLs for months now with all different types of wick material and build technics and still to this day, I am hit to miss when it comes to building/wicking one. Sometimes it can be the best vape ever and sometimes the worst.
I have been using my KFLs for months now with all different types of wick material and build technics and still to this day, I am hit to miss when it comes to building/wicking one. Sometimes it can be the best vape ever and sometimes the worst.
You don't want wick blocking the juice channel. You need air to pass through there to avoid negative pressure in the tank.
Have the wick down to the lower deck. Use a flat head screwdriver to get cotton/wick away from the juice channel.
I install my wick in the coil
Then wet it with juice
Then install the lower section of the chimney with the wick protruding up through the chimney
Then cut the wick to the correct length and push it lightly down over the juice channels (just touching) using the end of a small screwdriver (just don't pack it in there tight).
Then of course, install the upper section of the chimney
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BTW ... This is the same technique P Busardo uses when building his Kayfun Lite (except he is using a cotton ball instead of cotton yarn or braided silica) .... Starting at 27:25 on this video:
A PBusardo Review- Kayfun Lite & The Russian 91% - YouTube
Then wet it with juice
Then install the lower section of the chimney with the wick protruding up through the chimney
Then cut the wick to the correct length and push it lightly down over the juice channels (just touching) using the end of a small screwdriver (just don't pack it in there tight).
Then of course, install the upper section of the chimney
_____________________________________
BTW ... This is the same technique P Busardo uses when building his Kayfun Lite (except he is using a cotton ball instead of cotton yarn or braided silica) .... Starting at 27:25 on this video:
A PBusardo Review- Kayfun Lite & The Russian 91% - YouTube
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I dont think it matters all that much re: chimney base installation order. But I personally prefer to put the chimney base on first and then trim/manipulate the cotton wick afterwards to avoid the wick rotating and shifting. You can adjust the wick either way, though.
The most important thing, however, is a clear liquid channel. I use a thick sewing needle to clear the path.
I bought the $15 special KFL at Fastech. It uses setscrews to hold the coil which eliminates one of the hardest parts for me with the Kayfun ( and yes I've tried the cheese head screws.) Problem is I can't figure out how to fill the dam thing. There is no fill hole on the botton.
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1662502
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1662502
I see a fill screw one the one you posted.
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Yes that's whats on the bill of sale but they shipped me a KFL 3.1. So it has a "trap door" on the side hole. First attempt filling with a needle bottle and the needle broke off inside. There is no access behind there so I am afraid that tank is ruined.
I'm getting to the point where the Kayfun just might not be worth it for me. I always make a mess building and my builds run about 80% good, rest dry hits after 15 minutes vaping, granted these are heavy nets so I can't blame the kay fun. I just get so much more enjoyment out of my Brass Monkey dripper. So easy to build and the Kayfun just can't compete with quality or quantity of vape. Sure it won't work with my Provaries but works great with the three 30W tube mods I have.
Sort of revaluating my little piece of the vape world and the KFL might just not be a good fit for me.
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That sucks. I think I would contact fasttech and inform them that they sent me the wrong kayfun. They most likely will send you another one right out without worrying about getting the first one back. I know you said your NET is to thick for the kayfun to work properly but you can setup your kayfun as a dripper so its not a total lost.
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Its no big deal (it was less than $15). The main thin is after 4 months I have a clear direction on how I want to vape and the KFL just isn't working for me, even the much accommed Ephro clone gives me issues. RDA's are where its at. Aerotank during work and dripper at home. I just wasted too much time on the KFL, they are not my cup of tea for what I need. I'm sure they are fine for many people building just comes natural, but an RDA is so much easier to set up and enjoy, with the V/W tube modes that easily handle a 1 ohm RDA the choice is clear for me. There is just no rhyme or reason why I get so many dry hitting coil burning builds with the KFL. Its no wonder the new variation on the KFL theme are focused at easier building/better wicking. I doubt the KFL will be very popular this time next year.
You can actually get inside the fill hole. I used a phillips screwdriver and was able to unscrew the fill port. behind is 2 ball bearings and a spring. I was able to fix my fill hole by taking these out, cleaning and replaced
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