COIL - Tips & Tricks (Combined Members Posts)
Troubleshooting List – “Reasons why you may be popping Coils”
1. Wick touching (inside) cap to
2. Wick touching bottom of tank
3. Wire coming from negative screw might be touching the top of tank
4. Wick too far from positive post
5. Coils touching
6. Coils too loose or not touching wick
7. Wick is not oxodized properly
8. Wick is pinched off by wick hole
9. Coils are over tight
10. Positive and negative screws are to tight
11. Not enough wraps, ohms are to low
12. Using freshly charged battery and not pulse firing to prep coil
13. After oxidizing wick, forgetting to juice burn 4-5 times (soak wick in VG then light on fire and let it burn till it goes out..repeat)
14. Make sure there is no old bits of coil under the screws (or stuck to the wick) before replacing w/new coil
COIL TIPS
1.
“Wire 101” ECF Link
2.
Resistance Wire - ECF Link
3.
Elfstone (Post #1361) with close-up PIC: I don't know. I slapped that coil on half asleep in a minute - the very ugliest I've ever done! I was just about to say the iHy is more forgiving than the DID and fairly easy to set up, more space and more comfortable than the Zenesis... Notice how the coil is too tight by any standards, and I also had to severely pinch the wick because it's a 325 and was flooding like crazy. Just made sure it got as close as possible to the center post to avoid my most common issue - a hotspot on the positive lead wire. No rolling paper, Zen oxidized wick though (which are so well done they actually don't need insulator, ironic since Zen provides insulators)
4.
EZkill (Post #6689 – also see Post #6700): If you do too few wraps you’re going to end up with a .4 ohm coil which is going to start pushing your batteries too far. Just make sure you know what you're doing. 28AWG has approximately 1/3rd the ohms of 32. .4ohm coil needs about 10 amps to fire on a fresh battery....which can fry a AW IMR 18350.
Edit: Also with that thick of wire you are basically taking out your safety in case of bad shorts. Consider the thinner wires to be a fuse. Bad short will pop the coil and you're good. Thick wire...nope it won't pop. That makes it easier to setup but I wouldn't recommend it unless you really know what you're doing.
5.
Evilferret (Post #3636): Hahaha I'm wishing my coils will pop so I can experiment. Throwing out a perfectly good coil makes me sad.
When starting the first wrap for the coil try to pull it taunter. Don't wrap it hard but when starting the first coil make sure there is minimal slack on the wire.
6.
Evilferret (Post #3648): Make the bottom coils closer to each other and the top ones to have more of a gap.
7.
EzKill (Post #10294): Seriously they should be against the wick but not pressed into it. If you aren't getting bad, very dry burned hits, your wrap is probably good. Wrapping too tight will cause shorts. Not wrapping tight enough will cause dry(hot) spots. You can fire it and see. If some coil parts are going red before others each time they are probably too far. If you aren't having problems, don't try to fix it.
8.
Ezkill (Post #11363): It should be obvious if it's a 4 ohm coil. A 2/3 wrap at 1.5ohm on a 3.7 volt battery is going to go red really quickly...a 4 ohm, not so much. If it's heating fast then your measurement is bad. If it's not heating fast it's a different problem.
I have a multi meter that simply won't take a good measurement on any genesis device with an installed coil..I have no idea why. The other one is very accurate.
9.
Grruss (Post #18235): I started with kanthal 32 a-1 and never changed. I usually wrap a 4/5 coil and get 1.8-1.9 ohms. What I don't like about that is that it takes a little while for the coil to heat up. Whatever size you choose to use, you can change the character of your vape by adding/dropping coils. What I like about the iHybrid is that you can just throw a kick in it and get a regulated vape, if 10 watts is enough for you.
10.
Evilferret (#3644): Think that's normal. I also get tons of condensation. Try making a fat wick if you're having wicking issues or offsetting the coils.
11.
Sedge (#5176): Simple. If you go here
http://www.kanthal.com/en/products/m...fecral-alloys/you can find the specs for each gauge and grade. I measured the diameter and checked both resistance and continuity. If they didn't all match, then alloy makeup must be different. For example, at the same diameter (gauge) nichrome 80 has a slightly lower resistance and a slightly higher continuity than Kanthal A-1 specs Same is true, but to a lesser degree, between the different grades of Kanthal.
Kingorchid is accurate in his labeling. Currently, his 30 awg is listed as Kanthal D and the 30 awg he has is Kanthal A. IMO, for vaping purposes, D grade is fine. There is only 100 deg. F difference in max. continuous operating temp. 1300 vs 1400 and these are temps our coils never reach.
I would imagine that there is no label on the small 100 ft spools he sells because he respools, but there is a Kanthal label on the larger spool on at least his 36awg listing. He respools off the larger ones. Buys in quantity, has no overhead like pelican nor does he have to be ISO which is expensive. Makes sense to me. Passes the savings on. Plus the wire performs. I'm loving the 30 and the 28. And twisted 36 rocks too.
You can see a Kanthal label here.
All Categories guy is in New Jersey, not China, has been around for a long time, and hundreds of ECFers have purchased from him including all those technobugs in the atty and bat modders forums. You can PM him in ebay and he will respond quickly. He ships super fast. Edit: Prices for Kanthal A-1 32 awg. Pelican sells 50 feet for $50. That's a buck a foot. All their grades and gauges are the same price within the range of gauges we vapers typically use.
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