The iHybrid APV - A fully Customizable Genesis

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Conard

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Sounds like the wick is shorted out to the body as it passes through the wick hole. That is the area to make sure the wick is red hot when torching.
The whole wick should be torched to red hot but extra focus is needed on the coil area and where the wick passes through.

When I started I found that using the rolling paper method and extending it down through the hole stopped all the shorts. It's a pain to get it off the wick in the hole once you get it running but it works.
 

cryptodogg

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I can't get the coil to stay put. Oxidizing is good, actually rolled a couple different wicks.

Everytime I wrap a coil and fire it, POP the positve leg burns off. I am talking after 20 attempts lastnight I continued to get the same result. Tried all kinds of different number of wraps, tightness

Any ideas?

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Take a cotton ball and unroll it, roll the wick against the cotton,the area of the wick that passes through the body. You just want a thin area of cotton Don't let the wick disappear there, only showing white cotton, keep it thin but not to thin. You should be able to see that the wick is under there, if you know what I mean. Then insert and wrap a coil, the cotton should isolate against the shorts you may be getting. I haven't personally done this but I watched a vid and it's a solid idea, plus the cotton won't prevent wicking.
 

CASEACE79

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I can't get the coil to stay put. Oxidizing is good, actually rolled a couple different wicks.

Everytime I wrap a coil and fire it, POP the positve leg burns off. I am talking after 20 attempts lastnight I continued to get the same result. Tried all kinds of different number of wraps, tightness

Any ideas?

Sent from my Epic using Tapatalk

I was having the same problem. Here's what worked for me. Jack frost (torch the unrolled sheet) the mesh before rolling a ton. Fold the cut edge before rolling around a thick paperclip. Torch after it's rolled a ton but do not quench. Put a small piece of cigarette paper around the wick where the coil will lay. Use Zen's method of twisting the device counter clockwise till you get to the post. Then put the wire between the post and mesh but still turn the device to start the second coil. Repeat till you have the desired amount of coils. When wrapping around the positive post make sure you get the mesh as close to the positive post as possible without touching. Fire to burn off the paper and to make sure you get an even glow. Blow off the ash and add liquid. Fire till coils glow again. Repeat this 3-4 times. Then fill the tank 3/4 full and vape.
 

ataunton

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I've spent a few days with the iHybrid and think it is a mean machine. Vapes like a champ and setup was easy. Somebody posted some videos somewhere in the 260's (page numbers). If your having trouble check these out and follow along. I've rewicked 4 devices now using this method and each one is running great.

Faceless great job with these and with spending the time on here answering questions and helping your customers out. Any chances of a slimmer version of this guy? If so, count me in. As well as it vapes, it is a bit too big for my hands compared to the other mods I'm usually using.
 

CASEACE79

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elfstone

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I can't get the coil to stay put. Oxidizing is good, actually rolled a couple different wicks.

Everytime I wrap a coil and fire it, POP the positve leg burns off. I am talking after 20 attempts lastnight I continued to get the same result. Tried all kinds of different number of wraps, tightness

Any ideas?

Sent from my Epic using Tapatalk

Most likely it's what they said: the wick is not oxidized and you are shorting through it. The positive lead is where current goes, then rushes through the wick and by-passes the rest of the coil. Therefore the positive lead runs a really high current that melts it. It actually takes one dot of bare steel and one frayed strand of mesh at the bottom. Just thought I'd explain, because a lot of times it's better to understand what happens rather than just follow advice :)

Again, I do my wicks pretty much like he shows here, except I oxidize the mesh before rolling it and without quenching in water (Jack Frost).

 
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Faceless

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Someone clue me in on what needs measured.
Unless it's been answered.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

OD, ID and thickness

I just want to know the size.. I mean I have no clue how they measure springs, lol... How do you positively identify a spring? :)

... I really like how my Legacy works even without the spring... feels a little off, but works.

The spring you had on the prototype was .500" free standing, .400" OD, and .03" wire thickness

Things are great, thanks
Hope the same for you.
Hunting season is less than a week away.
I cannot wait, 6 months without it gets me down on my luck.

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Oh yeah, I cant wait to shoot some birds!!

Should have seen me at Home Depot. The people looked at me like I was crazy. I was carrying the spring that came with the iHy asking people, where to find a stiffer version.

How does one differentiate springs?

The springs you need are on the door knob isle I think, in a box

Got a q for advanced Gennie users. Why can't we put a string of silica down the center tube of a mesh wick?

I keep looking down the huge tube in my wick and I just want to plug it (no dirty thoughts please).

Just pinch the top lol, I rolled that wick so it probably is awful lol, you can also make it skinnier by removing it and rolling between your fingers, the skinnier the better but thats just my opinion

I can't believe people can still order the Ihybrids from the pre sale!

Its because no one knows where to get them lol, I broke ECF rules posting the link. I'm still trying to learn the rules being a new supplier, ECF has been a great help, I'm sure they're annoyed with all my emails lol. I'm so computer illiterate

Or that several have been put up for sale in the classies. The iHybrid is a keeper.

I've just seen a few. It honestly isnt for everyone. Thats why you constantly see Zens, orions, katanas and others, Some people don't like the RBA's, I personally can only use RBA's.

I've spent a few days with the iHybrid and think it is a mean machine. Vapes like a champ and setup was easy. Somebody posted some videos somewhere in the 260's (page numbers). If your having trouble check these out and follow along. I've rewicked 4 devices now using this method and each one is running great.

Faceless great job with these and with spending the time on here answering questions and helping your customers out. Any chances of a slimmer version of this guy? If so, count me in. As well as it vapes, it is a bit too big for my hands compared to the other mods I'm usually using.

I will have a 14500 model very very soon, It will be called the iHybrid mini
 

docabramson

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I used a little cotton around the area is passes through the hole. Seems to be working ok. I have a GTUS and the learning curve for that Gen was painful. It has got to be that spot I am not doing something wrong. Normally I use the fold method on the outside edge. I actually torch the mesh flat and after it is rolled. Always check for stray wires. Could have been I was just tired and being sloppy.

Haha, I went so Gen crazy 2 years ago I actually purchased Stewalin from Germany and had it shipped over to me for 1/2 of what I paid for the Ihybrid. Back in the day there were no nice SS tanks.

Maybe I need to add an isolator.
 
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evilferret

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I used a little cotton around the area is passes through the hole. Seems to be working ok. I have a GTUS and the learning curve for that Gen was painful. It has got to be that spot I am not doing something wrong. Normally I use the fold method on the outside edge. I actually torch the mesh flat and after it is rolled. Always check for stray wires. Could have been I was just tired and being sloppy.

Haha, I went so Gen crazy 2 years ago I actually purchased Stewalin from Germany and had it shipped over to me for 1/2 of what I paid for the Ihybrid. Back in the day there were no nice SS tanks.

Maybe I need to add an isolator.

Forgot where I read this but try using the cig paper trick but use enough paper so it'll cover the wick area that touches the hole.

The paper should act as an insulator plus if it burns, probably better than the plastic stuff people are using.

I'm trying to avoid insulators of any kind so haven't tried it yet.
 
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