The Poldiac Fan Club

[Mozzer]

Here you can see the finish

 

[eJohn]

Here you can see the finish

Is there a way to keep it shiny like this for more than a day? Mine becomes cloudy the next day after I shine it up with Brasso. Which Sharkhide did you use, the metal polish or aluminum cleaner? Have you tried their metal protectant? It's too bad Sharkhide is so pricey, $40 bucks?!? Maybe if I could find it in smaller quantities.

Have you tried lacquering it?

 

[Mozzer]

Is there a way to keep it shiny like this for more than a day? Mine becomes cloudy the next day after I shine it up with Brasso. Which Sharkhide did you use, the metal polish or aluminum cleaner? Have you tried their metal protectant? It's too bad Sharkhide is so pricey, $40 bucks?!? Maybe if I could find it in smaller quantities.

Have you tried lacquering it?

heh nope, if you touch it, which you kinda have to do to use it, it will get tarnished within a day or two. Most of the time I don't worry about some patina developing. I polish once in a while. I did all the extra because of the new shirt not matching. As I already indicated, this was not from wear or tarnish. They were actually finished to different levels of shine. Even after polishing the original pants, you could see a slight satin to the finish, compared to the new shirt. There wasn't a blemish on any of it.

Anyway, I use the Sharkhide metal polish. Got the 1lb can for $40. It contains ammonia, btw, which is a bit controversial for brass. I think it's fine as long as you make sure to buff it all the way out, and never let it dry on there. I wouldn't consider lacquering, actually. I kind of like the dynamics of brass.

 

[grolff]

There's nothing wrong with running a carto tank and kick. You know what they say about opinions, they'er like ..... and everybody has one.

I will say that I have messed both the UD AGA-T2 & UD AGT (not sure which one you have); they both are very difficult to build. Like near impossible. The AGT, that tiny Ti atty, has a ~ 2mm wick hole that travels almost 9mm through the atty deck. It's a poor desgin, it under wicks and the air hole it too low on the top cap. The ground and positive posts on AGA-T and T2 are way too far apart. I always get a hot leg or hot spot on the top coil. If you can build those atty's you can build anything.

Once I started vaping with gear that was designed by modders, people who actually vape, I understood why all those small details are important. It really does make your life a lot easier.

Don't get me wrong, I think China is a good thing. I started with a eGo twist, I think it's great to have affordable gear for new vapers; but I don't agree with all the clones and I don't think China could design an atty to save their lives.

A properly built rba, IMHO, is worlds different than a carto, but there's deff is a learning curve. That's the reason the DID is one of my favorite atty's; the way the atty deck is design, the build is one of the easier ones. Flavor is off the charts.

If you had a DID I wouldn't mind building a coil and mailing it to you, but some people just don't do RBA's and there's nothing wrong with that.

Appreciate it Matty. I have a AGA-T2 I believe. I just rebuilt it with 28 gauge, 3 wrap. Came out like 1.1 ohm. It's hitting semi ok on the Poldiac. I ordered the Poldiac on Sunday night and it came on Wednesday! All the way form Greece to Georgia, USA. Amazing. It actually came before the other stuff I ordered to go with it.

I didn't realize the AGA was a bad design. I got it cause I heard it was a easy cheap starter RBA. I may have to give a DID a go or a Gemini. They sure do look nice.

Anyways thanks for the feedback I appreciate it.

 

[Peppie]

I mounted my IBTanked Carto tank on my new Aname and couldnt get it to draw. I fiddled a bit with the top ring on the Aname but still no luck on getting the tank to draw.
Any insight would be great.

 

[MattyB1503]

Appreciate it Matty. I have a AGA-T2 I believe. I just rebuilt it with 28 gauge, 3 wrap. Came out like 1.1 ohm. It's hitting semi ok on the Poldiac. I ordered the Poldiac on Sunday night and it came on Wednesday! All the way form Greece to Georgia, USA. Amazing. It actually came before the other stuff I ordered to go with it.

I didn't realize the AGA was a bad design. I got it cause I heard it was a easy cheap starter RBA. I may have to give a DID a go or a Gemini. They sure do look nice.

Anyways thanks for the feedback I appreciate it.

Don't get me wrong; AGA stuff isn't bad for the price. If you are willing to mod or put up with it, you get a lot of bang for your buck.

I don't know how advanced you are in your builds, you might try touching micro-coils concentrated over the air hole on the AGA.

Been wanting a Gemini lately. I bet with the smaller top cap the thing rips, and flavor is prob a little better as well.

I always thought that high end vape gear was just a status symbol until I actually vaped and built um, totally changed my mind. As Jim put it, they really are "an atomizer for life".

 

[MattyB1503]

I mounted my IBTanked Carto tank on my new Aname and couldnt get it to draw. I fiddled a bit with the top ring on the Aname but still no luck on getting the tank to draw.
Any insight would be great.

I can think of two fixes:

- Turn the contact in the Poldi 510 clockwise to raise the tank a bit.

- Remove the o-rings from the plastic switch housing to allow for airflow through the Poldi's 510.

Either one should work but it's just a guess. Hopefully someone who runs carto tanks will chime in.

 

[grolff]

I mounted my IBTanked Carto tank on my new Aname and couldnt get it to draw. I fiddled a bit with the top ring on the Aname but still no luck on getting the tank to draw.
Any insight would be great.

I had this same problem with my carto tanks. The Boge or Smoktech cartos have two air holes in the bottom that get covered up by the 510 connection. I had to turn the silver screw a bunch to raise it up and fiddle with it a bit. I was able to get it to work eventually although the tank will not be completely flush with the Poldiac. It would be nice if they designed top caps for carto tanks though.

 

[grolff]

I can think of two fixes:
- Remove the o-rings from the plastic switch housing to allow for airflow through the Poldi's 510.

That totally worked. I removed just top o-ring. Word of caution though leaky cartos will get juice on your button. I imagine if i used it this way all the time I would need to disassemble and clean the button weekly.

 

[MiriamWTH]

That totally worked. I removed just top o-ring. Word of caution though leaky cartos will get juice on your button. I imagine if i used it this way all the time I would need to disassemble and clean the button weekly.

I clean the button (contacts) weekly anyway for better conductivity ;-)

 

[arevalo]

Joined the club and I'm indeed a fan.

 

[grolff]

I mounted my IBTanked Carto tank on my new Aname and couldnt get it to draw. I fiddled a bit with the top ring on the Aname but still no luck on getting the tank to draw.
Any insight would be great.

I got my IBTanked 22mm tank today. I had to fiddle with the screw to get it the right height but once you get there it works quite nice.



Tank looks almost flush but there is about a 1mm gap between tank and poldiac.

 

[Peppie]

I got my IBTanked 22mm tank today. I had to fiddle with the screw to get it the right height but once you get there it works quite nice.

View attachment 251286

Tank looks almost flush but there is about a 1mm gap between tank and poldiac.

I got my IBTanked to fit tight to the top of the mod, but had to remove the large o-ring on the switch housing to get the tank to draw.

 

[Firestorm]

I got my IBTanked to fit tight to the top of the mod, but had to remove the large o-ring on the switch housing to get the tank to draw.

You may find that the placement of your finger on the button may effect the draw. I am keeping an eye out for a vented top cap for bottom air-fed atomizers. It would be nice if it was vented like the bottom cap with cut outs.

 

[Thrasher]

You may find that the placement of your finger on the button may effect the draw. I am keeping an eye out for a vented top cap for bottom air-fed atomizers. It would be nice if it was vented like the bottom cap with cut outs.

I saw someone on here drilled a hole through one of the flutes in the topcap themselves.

 

[Kells]

I am really interested in the stainless steel poldiac is there anywhere besides mm vapors to purchase from? If not how often are they available?

 

[Thrasher]

I am really interested in the stainless steel poldiac is there anywhere besides mm vapors to purchase from? If not how often are they available?

nope. they usually restock quickly and its not all or none so you have to keep an eye out on the product page for the one you want/

seen a couple floating around the classifieds lately......................

 

[Firestorm]

I saw someone on here drilled a hole through one of the flutes in the topcap themselves.

I saw that too, but there's no way that I could do it well. The probability of doing a decent job might go up if I had the right tools.

 

[Peppie]

I saw someone on here drilled a hole through one of the flutes in the topcap themselves.

I am seriously considering do this to my Aname, so I am able to keep the o-ring in place.
What size and how many do ya all think??
I was leaning toward 2 holes at 3/64???????

 

[MiriamWTH]

I am really interested in the stainless steel poldiac is there anywhere besides mm vapors to purchase from? If not how often are they available?

Add it to your wishlist on Homepage | mmvapors.com and you will automatically get an email when it is in stock again. ;-)