"The Russian" 91% (Kayfun Lite Clone With A Twist)

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arh32

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i love my russian 91 by kebo....i took me a few builds to get it down 3 time was it now its working good ...i use cotton and the term...less is more worked for me..i gotta .98 micro on a 1/16 bit runnin on my provari mini....awesome:D:banana::D
i need another R91 but there sold out....again

They are hard to find for sure...i would not mind one more also.
 

JavaDan

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CaliVaper

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With how popular the R91%/KFL+ Rba's are, I'm surprised no one has released a pyrex tank. I'm looking into how much it would cost to have some manufactured. I'm sure it would be prohibitively expensive unless ordering the pieces in bulk because they will need to be custom made. Also because it would be extremely hard/expensive (if not impossible) to get the fine threading in pyrex, it would have to be done with O-rings. The design i'm thinking of would include 5 pieces.

1. (1) the pyrex tank (obviously)
2. (2) metal collars (similar to the standard top and bottom tank sections but indented with grooves for orings)
3. (1) a replacement top chimney section where the top 3-5mm are threaded
4. (1) a replacement top cap that is threaded for the piece listed above to screw into.

It would be nice if it could be done with just the 3 pieces (1. & 2. above) but I'm afraid that trying to do that, it wouldn't stay together unless the pyrex tank was as small as the standard plastic middle tank section. I think it would be much more appealing if the tank was larger though.

BTW... does anyone know what type/size threading the R91% uses for the tank sections? I want to make a cad drawing of my design to get price quotes from some manufacturers. But I need to have the correct thread type, sizing, and tolerances.
 

Bimini Twist

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I've had my R91 for some time now & have run more than a few tanks of some mildly tank cracking Cherry Cola juice through it. It did put some verticle hairline cracks in the tank and I had to replace the top cap o-ring after each tank. But it still vaped and held the juice very well.

And I have dropped it many times. Today, mounted on a ProVari, it took a nose dive from my shirt pocket to the concrete. It did not pop out a thread as I've read here and I picked it up and vaped it. It seemed fine. I stashed it in my pants pocket while spraying some stuff around my house. That task done, I washed up and pulled it out for a vape. Hmm, I thought I had more juice in there, but it still has enough to vape. Filled it up and . . . uh oh. It's leaking between the tank sections!

R91tank_01.jpg

R91tank_02.jpg

R91tank_03.jpg


Now that I have all steel sections, I think I'll still use this one for occasional Cherry Cola fixes.
 

horton

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I just finished going through this very interesting thread after receiving a Russian for Valentine's Day. (Guess she really does love me)
After cleaning it several times and studying the parts, I coiled and wicked using 30 AWG Kanthal @ 1.6 Ω and cotton. It is truly an impressive device and vapes well.
So far I've been filling from the top with success and now I'm curious about using the fill valve on the side of the base. I am not sure exactly how to proceed. Is this valve a spring loaded device? Do I gently push the tip of the enclosed needle bottle and squeeze until full? I gather I can get more juice in by filling from the bottom -- hence my curiosity.
Any advice is greatly appreciated....... TIA
 

Brew mn

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Bimini, is that red o ring a replacement?

Just curious because I never saw it in red and also wonder if you know the o ring size?

The O Ring Store has the 008 Viton for 3 cents each. Minimum is 17 pcs. and shipping is $5. I got Vitons because my ADV is Pluid and they will not swell. The 008 is the best fit by far for the chimney. I have tried 1.5X5 and 2X5, but they just don't seal correctly.
They also carry the ones for the tank and filler screw.
 

Bimini Twist

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Thanks for mentioning that company. Bookmarked.

And I think these are the o-rings you bought?
007 V75 Viton® Fluorocarbon Black O-rings [V75007] : The O-ring Store, Online distributor of O-rings, Seals, and Kits, We make getting your O-rings easy!

Edit: Oops, wrong item. Should have been the 008. Corrected by Brew mn in post #1040
 
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SeniorBoy

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I just finished going through this very interesting thread after receiving a Russian for Valentine's Day. (Guess she really does love me)
After cleaning it several times and studying the parts, I coiled and wicked using 30 AWG Kanthal @ 1.6 Ω and cotton. It is truly an impressive device and vapes well.
So far I've been filling from the top with success and now I'm curious about using the fill valve on the side of the base. I am not sure exactly how to proceed. Is this valve a spring loaded device? Do I gently push the tip of the enclosed needle bottle and squeeze until full? I gather I can get more juice in by filling from the bottom -- hence my curiosity.
Any advice is greatly appreciated....... TIA

I've certainly made my share of mistakes with my new Hcigar / lol but I'm very sure I can provide you with my experiences which work. Filling from the fill valve on the side gives you 4+ML. I just cleaned my toy, assembled with no juice. Turn the unit upside down after you remove the screw. The ONLY way it works for me is to use a plastic needle tip on the bottle. Insert and you will feel it penetrate the valve. The valve tightens/seals around your plastic needle tip. Slowly squeeze and watch the juice chamber. I even purposely overfilled and all that happened is the juice backed up, cleared the flood and I was ready to rock and roll. I use the same method to top of the device. In short, my top never comes off and unless I'm cleaning the device.

EDIT: On my R91 which has the fill screw on the base I use a syringe since it has no valve.

HTH and good luck

:)
 
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horton

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Thanks, SeniorBoy...... 4ml certainly will be nice. I'm getting roughly 2.5ml now. (the markings are sort of worn off on the syringe I've been using.... need to get motivated and break out a new one...lol)
You mentioned removing a screw. On mine, I do not have a screw. I can see the hole and inside it looks like a valve on a tire. I thought I had to use the provided bottle with a metal blunt tube on the top to fill with. I'd think there would be less chance for damage if I could use plastic. I'll have to see about ordering a plastic tip needle bottle.
I'm also wondering about what to do if the valve gets damaged, stuck, worn, etc. I see no way to get it out or repair it. The parts diagram that came with the Russian doesn't even show the part. I hope the whole base piece doesn't have to be replaced if the valve goes kaput.
 
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