Same thing happened to me today. I had 3 packs of bottles on the order, 4 AMGs and 2 silos, I got the silos and 2 AMGs but not the bottles and other atties. I submitted a ticket, but haven't heard back yet. Probably will hear something on Monday
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Same thing happened to me today. I had 3 packs of bottles on the order, 4 AMGs and 2 silos, I got the silos and 2 AMGs but not the bottles and other atties. I submitted a ticket, but haven't heard back yet. Probably will hear something on Monday
1) @Gel: Can you please explain where (and how) the juice gets into the resurrector carto?
2) With the Silos and Hybrid attys I had some leakage coming from the top ring-gasket and working down into the works. This was due to the loose fit of the ring-gasket on the metal atty/carto. With a carto that's fatter because it's covered with a colored "skin" the fit is so perfect that there is zero leaking or seepage. The carto's bottom seal (soft metal to hard metal) is very good too. I wouldn't want to loosen that to try working some juice in through the air inlets ;-). I expected some seepage to continue below, but to my surprise, on the unit I'm using anyway, the top being so well-sealed has cured all signs of seepage anywhere. It seems like that top seal might a common problem area.
3) Haven't headed for the hills. No such luck. Was busy at a conference. Nothing to report about weather or kids. A lot of people asked about the VMOD. Fell asleep vaping at the hotel, finger on the button, and overcooked a carto. No spare. Can't say it tastes as nice as it did; can't wait to get home and replace it.
4) For people having trouble with the blue batteries' overly high positive terminal causing the ON-OFF lock not working (and the push-button being too easy), after putting in spacers for days, I found an even easier solution (doh): insert the battery upside down. Polarity is immaterial, it's just a heater coil. Apologies if it's been suggested before.
5) My friend from Eastern Europe says he tried an e-cig at his doctor's suggestion but "it kept going out on me". I'm still wondering what exactly he meant.
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I spoke with them- they actually got back to me quickly.... they were B/Od when the order shipped and didn't advise of that on the packing slip. As of yesterday there were shipping the bottles out. (You should double confirm with them, just to be sure.)
Fernand not real sure on the how,I was a little shocked,I will say I took off my drip tip and turned the Vmod upside down and pushed on the bottle and there was juice coming up the middle of the carto (tube) then I gave it a blind squawk are two and it works,only gasket I put on was the large one.Blind S is a term used on another mod,meaning pushing on the bottle and drawing at the same time.
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So it is coming up the airtube. I would expect that if you tighten it, it won't work, and if you loosen it, juice will leak below and can overflow the catch cup. Of course I see why drilling puts people off, but I love the way the drilled carto keeps the airway clear, the draw is so clean, and everything is so tidy. If you use it this way with an undrilled carto for a while, do you observe seepage, or does it all get sucked back up into the airtube?
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I sent a ticket in, I imagine I'll hear back on Monday to that effect.
Fernand I have no clue really other than the way I'm feeding it,I'm on day two and its bone dry,knock on wood.
Skinny, I know your reading so I'm gonna toss out some observances.
With my burl shell/cone I am getting leakage from the top seal. Cone does not seat as well as my beat up silver one from July. When firing the mod, there is play in the chassis. In looking at the cones, there is a difference in the threads. See cruddy pic. If cone is screwed in so there is no play in chassis, the seal is pushed down too far causing leaks and draw restriction. The excess just below the threads is longer on the burl cone. I am going to mod it by filing off some material. Wish me luck!
Fernand has a great ob that the cartos that are "skinned" fit the seal better. Maybe we just need a seal tweak? A bit thicker material? leakage from the top can get between the metal feeding cylinder and chassis and seep out from other paces. Makes tracing the source fun sometimes!
With my burl shell/cone I am getting leakage from the top seal. Cone does not seat as well as my beat up silver one from July. When firing the mod, there is play in the chassis. In looking at the cones, there is a difference in the threads. See cruddy pic. If cone is screwed in so there is no play in chassis, the seal is pushed down too far causing leaks and draw restriction. The excess just below the threads is longer on the burl cone. I am going to mod it by filing off some material. Wish me luck!
Fernand has a great ob that the cartos that are "skinned" fit the seal better. Maybe we just need a seal tweak? A bit thicker material? leakage from the top can get between the metal feeding cylinder and chassis and seep out from other paces. Makes tracing the source fun sometimes!
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Unpacked and loaded up my second new V-Mod yesterday and I'm glad to claim success and satisfaction! I use the same voodoo dance as with my first one.
What a compact and convenient lil' device! They've become my 'out da door' PVs.
What a compact and convenient lil' device! They've become my 'out da door' PVs.
Hm, I still haven't heard anything back - how did you get in touch with them?
Interesting! My original silver chassis always had some "play", and I had a small leaking problem. I got my gun metal chassis in, and it screws in and seems to "fit" better - there is no play, and I'm not having any leaking problems.
Skinny, I know your reading so I'm gonna toss out some observances.
With my burl shell/cone I am getting leakage from the top seal. Cone does not seat as well as my beat up silver one from July. When firing the mod, there is play in the chassis. In looking at the cones, there is a difference in the threads. See cruddy pic. If cone is screwed in so there is no play in chassis, the seal is pushed down too far causing leaks and draw restriction. The excess just below the threads is longer on the burl cone. I am going to mod it by filing off some material. Wish me luck!
Fernand has a great ob that the cartos that are "skinned" fit the seal better. Maybe we just need a seal tweak? A bit thicker material? leakage from the top can get between the metal feeding cylinder and chassis and seep out from other paces. Makes tracing the source fun sometimes!
Similar to my issue(SKULLZ body and cone), except that for some reason if I screw it down enough to hold the body tight, it wont fire!!! I had to put an o ring on the cone then screw it down so the body would have no play. Just don't look right with a gap between the two!! Gap is about a millimeter and a half to two millimeters!!! One thing I have done now to eliminate any leak is slip an actual o ring around the atty instead of standard seals, working like a charm, not even a drop of condensation on atty when you remove cone!!!
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I'd like to know also, been trying for two days and no response
Poor Skinny! He must have his hands full w/CQ. Here's to hoping all kinks can be figured out before Big Bad Boy Vmod hits production.
Fantastic observations around here!
It would seem to me that the most simple answer would be for Brian (why do I always type that as "Brain"??) to revamp the attys/cartos and have them with the outer black skin/sticker. He11, they could even be color coordinated to match the bods! This would in effect create a slightly larger and fatter surface area that would allow the gasket a solid and tight fit, as noted by Fernand.
Also, what a great tip on the blue batts. Who knew!
Fernand, your European friend was prolly lighting it with a lighter.
t-taz, good catch on the cones. Mine seem to all be a bit different.
Waiting to hear about the atty 0-rings.
It would seem to me that the most simple answer would be for Brian (why do I always type that as "Brain"??) to revamp the attys/cartos and have them with the outer black skin/sticker. He11, they could even be color coordinated to match the bods! This would in effect create a slightly larger and fatter surface area that would allow the gasket a solid and tight fit, as noted by Fernand.
Also, what a great tip on the blue batts. Who knew!
Fernand, your European friend was prolly lighting it with a lighter.
t-taz, good catch on the cones. Mine seem to all be a bit different.
Waiting to hear about the atty 0-rings.
I can't give you the exact sizes(package doesn't say), both o rings (atty and body) came in a set. The set is O/S Seats and Spring for Delta single lever #0081, it's from brass craft and is available at Lowes. I will say that the atty o ring is a TIGHT fit. It has to be worked in gently then use the threads of the cone to finish seating it. It's not easy, but it is worth it!!! Hope this helps!!!Ahem! Size? Brand? You really can't toss out pearls without details now!
A lil' somthan to add about the vapage batts, if using these and you twist lock button to lock, it fires with a slight touch, and eliminates the batt travel inside that normally happens when firing. I like this!!!
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Fantastic observations around here!
It would seem to me that the most simple answer would be for Brian (why do I always type that as "Brain"??) to revamp the attys/cartos and have them with the outer black skin/sticker. He11, they could even be color coordinated to match the bods! This would in effect create a slightly larger and fatter surface area that would allow the gasket a solid and tight fit, as noted by Fernand.
Also, what a great tip on the blue batts. Who knew!
Fernand, your European friend was prolly lighting it with a lighter.
t-taz, good catch on the cones. Mine seem to all be a bit different.
Waiting to hear about the atty 0-rings.
... Anyway, since we're on the subject of bad English here
...laughing at any ethnicity is tasteless and unacceptable
.
I sent a message using the "ON Line Help" function- even though it said 'off line', I did get an email response in about an hour. (Not sure how it works over the weekend though.)
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