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Fernand

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Brand new leak. Not fatal but eeeah.

The top is tight and sealed. No leaks that I can see up there. When I squirsh I feel solid resistance if I put my finger on the carto drip tip. I also know what a popped bottle is like, this doesn't seem to be it. But when I open it up, there ya go. Mop up time. Does anyone know this "look"? Is this circled area known to develop cracks? I wish I had a good mechanical drawing, what's under there? Does the bottle "seal" develop leaks? Thanks for any ideas.

IMG_1470m.jpg IMG_1452xm.jpg

@ahdex? What are those blue thingies on your photos? are they O-Rings (size?) or rubber bands or?
 
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Fernand

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I guess this is one of these devices that feels neglected unless you ... with it.

Is the pin translucent plastic in the battery compartment on the wall of the head portion (that the bottle screws into)? If so, yes, so it's a 2nd gen chassis.

We'll see, but my impression is that it's coming from the threaded bottle mating. This is a tricky design to make seep-proof. But (ahem) I sure wish I had a diagram. It sure was bone dry for a while, my guess it's the bottle-mating.

Ok, it's a conspiracy. The bottle had a hairline crack at the bottom of the threading AND there's some other leak. The bottles sure are'nt up to the repeated bending. And the better you seal the juice chamber, the more pressure builds up.

TIPS: for those of us using vertical coil cartos. As the carto ages, the filler gets tougher. That makes pushing juice harder. If you take it out and work a needle down along the wall to where the slit is cut until you see the tip through the slit, you can push the filler towards the center a bit and get back to easier squirshing. If you overfeed the carto it gets empacted and makes less vapor. It's sometimes hard to judge how much liquid is needed. Blowing it out so old liquid comes out the bottom goes a long way to restoring performance. Afterwards you might have to do the needle trick again. A carto I thought was finished turned out to be usable for another coupla days, it was both swamped and empacted. Obviously you can only do that Lazarus so many times, then it's time for a new carto.

Veni, vidi, orderi. GoodProphets.com has a shipment of Boge 2.0 ohm in wrapped black (no leaks) at the best stateside price: $5.99 for 5, free shipping over $30, tvcfriend coupon 5% off, so that's $1.14 each total. I can't help it ... :2c: ;-) Disclaimer: as far as I know. Not afiliated w/ Boge or GP. Or Vapage.

@Gobbler you wuz right, it was 90% the bottle!
 
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GobblerHunter

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Fernand, The picture looks like the leak I got with a cracked bottle neck. The juice is forced out against the inside of the skin and kinda spreads out over the top of the chassis. Look back through the first 20 pages or so for some pics of the crack in the old chassis to compair. Your crack is in the area of the old chassie cracks. It appears to be a seam, maybe from a 2 piece mold to cast the chassis. The pin was suppost to stop the metal cup from putting too much stress on this weak point. I guess it didn't work on yours. Let Vapage know about your crack, they may replace your chassis. I agree!! The bottle necks are a weak link. I've had two (original two) both crack around the bend in the neck. The replacemnt bottles on the Vapage site seem to be of a softer plastic and work better...........

The talk about the cracked chassis starts about pg 77.
 
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enVmyIX

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Ok, so I've been using my Vmod for about a month or so without any problems but yesterday I had the unit fatally malfunction on me.

I gave a bath, which I do every couple of days and after drying it thoroughly and putting it back together it would not fire. I took out the shell thinking the firing pin might be out of place, but it wasn't, so i tried vaping it without the shell and i started to see smoke come out from the spring. It seems like the circut broke at the spring and burned it along with some of the battery covering.
I tried to realign the spring with some needle nose pliers but it was so burnt that it snapped off with very little force.

Has this ever happened to anyone? Does vapage have a warranty on the vmod? I'm stuck now and have no idea what to do...

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk
 

Fernand

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@envmyix I'm curious: what battery did you have on it? I was thinking that, wherever the short, to melt the spring etc you'd have to be pulling some serious amps. So didn't the battery protection circuit kick in?

Tip: try to squeeze as low on the bottle as possible. If you press up high you are distorting the neck and 1) the bottle ultimately develops a crack at the neck (3 of mine so far) and 2) the neck shifts inside the head and can leak.
 
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enVmyIX

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@envmyix I'm curious: what battery did you have on it? I was thinking that, wherever the short, to melt the spring etc you'd have to be pulling some serious amps. So didn't the battery protection circuit kick in?

I want to say it was the IMR high drains, but it could have been the vapage ones as well. those are the only 2 types of batteries that i have for the vmod.
 

GobblerHunter

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Ok, so I've been using my Vmod for about a month or so without any problems but yesterday I had the unit fatally malfunction on me.

I gave a bath, which I do every couple of days and after drying it thoroughly and putting it back together it would not fire. I took out the shell thinking the firing pin might be out of place, but it wasn't, so i tried vaping it without the shell and i started to see smoke come out from the spring. It seems like the circut broke at the spring and burned it along with some of the battery covering.
I tried to realign the spring with some needle nose pliers but it was so burnt that it snapped off with very little force.

Has this ever happened to anyone? Does vapage have a warranty on the vmod? I'm stuck now and have no idea what to do...

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk

I hope you will keep us updated, I would like to know if Vapage replaces your Vmod.
 
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