okay thanks, it just seemed like by the answers i was getting it was something that I was doing wrong/didnt know because I'm a beginner
Theres something wrong with my REM Creations SMPL Mod
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The CLT version 3 has a nice long center pin.
I know people at the local shop like it for hybrid mods.
I have a SMPL mod too.
But the Manhattan is a safer mod that works even better.
(Magnets are fun) (no spring in the switch, magnets)
No one is trying to be mean with you!
People just worry about new vapers when they use hybrids or don't understand batteries or ohms law.
No one wants you to get hurt, that's all.
But welcome here! Everyone is really great.
Ask a ton of questions, vapers love to talk about vaping!
I know people at the local shop like it for hybrid mods.
I have a SMPL mod too.
But the Manhattan is a safer mod that works even better.
(Magnets are fun) (no spring in the switch, magnets)
No one is trying to be mean with you!
People just worry about new vapers when they use hybrids or don't understand batteries or ohms law.
No one wants you to get hurt, that's all.
But welcome here! Everyone is really great.
Ask a ton of questions, vapers love to talk about vaping!
@Bunnykiller brings up a good question. Do you know what ohms your coil in your atty are? 0.4 or 0.5 ohms is probably the lowest I would suggest going on a good 18650 battery. Also - what brand and model of battery are you using?
When using atties and doing your own coils, (or even having the vape shop build them for you), it's a good idea to have an ohm meter to check the resistance (ohms) of your coils. If the resistance of your coil is lower than the battery can handle, that can also lead to trouble. @Baditude and @Mooch are the battery experts here, and reading their blogs is very useful when learning battery safety. BTW, an e-cig ohm meter is very inexpensive insurance.
Hope it helps and Happy Vaping!
When using atties and doing your own coils, (or even having the vape shop build them for you), it's a good idea to have an ohm meter to check the resistance (ohms) of your coils. If the resistance of your coil is lower than the battery can handle, that can also lead to trouble. @Baditude and @Mooch are the battery experts here, and reading their blogs is very useful when learning battery safety. BTW, an e-cig ohm meter is very inexpensive insurance.
Hope it helps and Happy Vaping!
No offense, but there really isn't anything safe to use on it. An atty with a long, protruding center pin is best, but there isn't anything good. However, for the same price as a good atty with an adjustable center pin, you can buy a clone 18650 mod. You can get a Nemesis clone from Fasttech for 15 bucks, here for example. Or you could get an authentic Smok Magneto from the same place for $26. If you go that route you can keep using your Royal Hunter, which is already a great atomizer. Sell that SMPL to an idiot and buy something that won't blow you up. You need new batteries anyway, but whatever you get will work with the machines
Here is why hybrid mods are dangerous:
The bottom threaded connection of your tanks (the 510 connection) are basically 2 part. The outside threaded part is the negative/grounding connection. The screw in the center is your positive connection. It screws into an isolator inside the connection that keeps the positive and negative from making contact with each other (a short). A hybrid mod has no top cap. Your tank makes direct contact with the top of the battery. If the center pin in your tank is flush with the bottom of the threaded stem, what happens is you create a hard short by letting both the positive and ground come in direct contact with the top (positive) post of the battery at the same time. This causes the tank to fire constantly and can make your battery vent/catch fire/explode.You need to look at your tanks and find one where that center screw sticks out AT LEAST 1 mm from the bottom of the 510 threaded stem. When you assemble the gear, put the tank on the mod first. Then put the battery in. Then screw in the switch gently, and just until it secures the battery snug so it doesn't rattle around. You should also buy a GOOD battery to put in it to lessen the chances of catastrophe if something goes wrong. Sony VTC4s are just about the highest rated batteries for this. You can pick them up online for about $6 or $7 each and they are a great investment.
Search results for: 'vtc4'
Sony VTC4 18650 30A high drain battery 2100mAh
Be careful when buying batteries. There are a lot of fakes out there. The 2 sites I liked are reputable dealers.
The bottom threaded connection of your tanks (the 510 connection) are basically 2 part. The outside threaded part is the negative/grounding connection. The screw in the center is your positive connection. It screws into an isolator inside the connection that keeps the positive and negative from making contact with each other (a short). A hybrid mod has no top cap. Your tank makes direct contact with the top of the battery. If the center pin in your tank is flush with the bottom of the threaded stem, what happens is you create a hard short by letting both the positive and ground come in direct contact with the top (positive) post of the battery at the same time. This causes the tank to fire constantly and can make your battery vent/catch fire/explode.You need to look at your tanks and find one where that center screw sticks out AT LEAST 1 mm from the bottom of the 510 threaded stem. When you assemble the gear, put the tank on the mod first. Then put the battery in. Then screw in the switch gently, and just until it secures the battery snug so it doesn't rattle around. You should also buy a GOOD battery to put in it to lessen the chances of catastrophe if something goes wrong. Sony VTC4s are just about the highest rated batteries for this. You can pick them up online for about $6 or $7 each and they are a great investment.
Search results for: 'vtc4'
Sony VTC4 18650 30A high drain battery 2100mAh
Be careful when buying batteries. There are a lot of fakes out there. The 2 sites I liked are reputable dealers.
IF you know ohm's law, sub ohm "rules" et al, SMPL can be used safely. All the normal rules apply- with the additional concern of the 510 ...
PSA: quiz yourself. What batteries are you using? What's the amp draw if you build a 0.6 setup? An 0.4? What margin of error do you allow between that amp draw and the continuous (not pulse) rating of your battery? How sure are you you got all those right?
IF (& please only if) you passed the quiz, read on...
Start with a quick summary of everything everyone has said, and the why of it-- look at the protruding end of your atty. Any atty. The threads are negative, the pin is positive. Of course, the top of your battery is positive, so only positive must touch or you get a short. A "traditional" mech with a 510 pin of its own, handles this concern for you- a hybrid does not. You must use an atty with an adjustable, not spring-loaded, 510 pin. In practice, many can't actually be adjusted "down" enough for hybrid use without causing other problems e.g. loose posts in the build deck (which is in turn a bit more serious than just being hard to build on - a loose post means a loose connection and has potential of causing a short). If you choose to use the SMPL, I'd advise go to a B&M and hold some RDAs in your hand, fiddle with em, etc. You need at least a 1-2mm protrusion while maintaining solid build post connection, for safe hybrid use. Drop the cash to buy what you like there this one time. Reason being, internet shopping can be tough - even if you get a name from your store adventure and Google it, you may or may not get the same clone model as what you held...etc. Try online shopping again once you have one reliable "safe" atty to use.
Now...this is important. The black spots don't NECESSARILY mean you shorted. The black spots are carbon buildup which mean your battery arced. Some of this happens with normal use because as you push the button on your SMPL, your connection points physically approach the battery terminals, and when they are microscopically close but not perfectly touching, arcing occurs. (And arcing buildup, like any damage to your switch, messes further with that 'perfect' connection and causes exponentially more arcing.) Stay with me here cuz you gotta know all of this if you're gonna safely use any of it...
Hot button can be way more serious. If it instantly became super hot, yes you shorted, dispose of your battery any time this happens. If it simply heated up gradually in the course of normal use, however, here's another possible explanation. Let's go back to basic electricity - in any circuit, heat happens at the point it encounters resistance. The most heat happens where you have the most resistance. Obviously you want this point to be your coil, and you want the most difference that you can get between coil resistance vs any other resistance. Remember that your switch has internal resistance, as does your battery itself. (Heck, so does the tube, etc). In both situations, this internal resistance increases with use. (Battery decays with time & use, increasing internal resistance; your switch oxidizes, arcs causing that carbon buildup, gets dirty with skin oils et al, the list goes on...all of which increases your switch resistance.) If either of those internal resistance numbers is too close to (or heaven forbid, more than) the resistance of your atty, you've got trouble. In future, even a "minor" hot button means you should stop, clean, and rebuild higher.
So, if you're still with me through all this, here's what you do. Ditch your battery this time cuz you don't really know what exactly happened and IT ISNT WORTH YOUR LIFE if you're wrong. Break down your mod, your switch (all the way - even a u-clip/magnet can break down, and must to clean w/o causing more buildup than you have now - Google or ask here if need be). Clean ALL connection points including the threads on your tube with a mild abrasive... I like toothpaste. Rinse well. Soak in rubbing alcohol briefly just because it'll dry faster if you do. Set em out on a paper towel for at least an hour (unless you skipped the alcohol step, in which case dry em overnight). Put it back together and grab that new atty you played with before you bought, so you know the 510 comes out enough without any post spin. Build your atty to at least 0.4, I'd recommend you go higher. I say at least 0.4 because that's the lowest I've ever had work in a well-kept clone SMPL without issues. I started my dad on a 0.8 so he had margin of error as he learned, and I hope you'll start there too. Anyway... Put your new battery in and fire it up. If your button heats at all, check everything, then rebuild higher- check your ohms, increase em, check your 510 pin, check your switch and the bottom of your battery for arcing spots. IF you stay on top of it and can say you know you haven't ever come close to a hard short, then you can maintain that NEW battery (again, don't try this on your old one, as you may really have shorted that one) - by using a pencil eraser to take off those black spots from your battery & your switch.
I know it's been a long post, but this is all what we don't normally tell newbies because there is SO much you HAVE TO keep up with each part of. I'm not exactly comfortable saying it all here either, but it sounds like you're gonna use your SMPL no matter what everyone says, so I want you to at least do it safely. Be careful and come back as often as you need to for any questions.
PSA: quiz yourself. What batteries are you using? What's the amp draw if you build a 0.6 setup? An 0.4? What margin of error do you allow between that amp draw and the continuous (not pulse) rating of your battery? How sure are you you got all those right?
IF (& please only if) you passed the quiz, read on...
Start with a quick summary of everything everyone has said, and the why of it-- look at the protruding end of your atty. Any atty. The threads are negative, the pin is positive. Of course, the top of your battery is positive, so only positive must touch or you get a short. A "traditional" mech with a 510 pin of its own, handles this concern for you- a hybrid does not. You must use an atty with an adjustable, not spring-loaded, 510 pin. In practice, many can't actually be adjusted "down" enough for hybrid use without causing other problems e.g. loose posts in the build deck (which is in turn a bit more serious than just being hard to build on - a loose post means a loose connection and has potential of causing a short). If you choose to use the SMPL, I'd advise go to a B&M and hold some RDAs in your hand, fiddle with em, etc. You need at least a 1-2mm protrusion while maintaining solid build post connection, for safe hybrid use. Drop the cash to buy what you like there this one time. Reason being, internet shopping can be tough - even if you get a name from your store adventure and Google it, you may or may not get the same clone model as what you held...etc. Try online shopping again once you have one reliable "safe" atty to use.
Now...this is important. The black spots don't NECESSARILY mean you shorted. The black spots are carbon buildup which mean your battery arced. Some of this happens with normal use because as you push the button on your SMPL, your connection points physically approach the battery terminals, and when they are microscopically close but not perfectly touching, arcing occurs. (And arcing buildup, like any damage to your switch, messes further with that 'perfect' connection and causes exponentially more arcing.) Stay with me here cuz you gotta know all of this if you're gonna safely use any of it...
Hot button can be way more serious. If it instantly became super hot, yes you shorted, dispose of your battery any time this happens. If it simply heated up gradually in the course of normal use, however, here's another possible explanation. Let's go back to basic electricity - in any circuit, heat happens at the point it encounters resistance. The most heat happens where you have the most resistance. Obviously you want this point to be your coil, and you want the most difference that you can get between coil resistance vs any other resistance. Remember that your switch has internal resistance, as does your battery itself. (Heck, so does the tube, etc). In both situations, this internal resistance increases with use. (Battery decays with time & use, increasing internal resistance; your switch oxidizes, arcs causing that carbon buildup, gets dirty with skin oils et al, the list goes on...all of which increases your switch resistance.) If either of those internal resistance numbers is too close to (or heaven forbid, more than) the resistance of your atty, you've got trouble. In future, even a "minor" hot button means you should stop, clean, and rebuild higher.
So, if you're still with me through all this, here's what you do. Ditch your battery this time cuz you don't really know what exactly happened and IT ISNT WORTH YOUR LIFE if you're wrong. Break down your mod, your switch (all the way - even a u-clip/magnet can break down, and must to clean w/o causing more buildup than you have now - Google or ask here if need be). Clean ALL connection points including the threads on your tube with a mild abrasive... I like toothpaste. Rinse well. Soak in rubbing alcohol briefly just because it'll dry faster if you do. Set em out on a paper towel for at least an hour (unless you skipped the alcohol step, in which case dry em overnight). Put it back together and grab that new atty you played with before you bought, so you know the 510 comes out enough without any post spin. Build your atty to at least 0.4, I'd recommend you go higher. I say at least 0.4 because that's the lowest I've ever had work in a well-kept clone SMPL without issues. I started my dad on a 0.8 so he had margin of error as he learned, and I hope you'll start there too. Anyway... Put your new battery in and fire it up. If your button heats at all, check everything, then rebuild higher- check your ohms, increase em, check your 510 pin, check your switch and the bottom of your battery for arcing spots. IF you stay on top of it and can say you know you haven't ever come close to a hard short, then you can maintain that NEW battery (again, don't try this on your old one, as you may really have shorted that one) - by using a pencil eraser to take off those black spots from your battery & your switch.
I know it's been a long post, but this is all what we don't normally tell newbies because there is SO much you HAVE TO keep up with each part of. I'm not exactly comfortable saying it all here either, but it sounds like you're gonna use your SMPL no matter what everyone says, so I want you to at least do it safely. Be careful and come back as often as you need to for any questions.
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Sorry if I sound too intense, I'm fully expecting to catch flak from other posters for saying all that. All the info has been on the mech forum here for ages but doesn't really belong in new members forum. I cannot stress enough BE CAREFUL. I only said it cuz you pretty much told us you're gonna use your mod anyway no matter what we all say, and that is your right, so I wanted to make sure you had the info needed and didn't wanna bank on the right pages coming up in any search you might do.
Edit: feel free to read that last as "...so I wanted to make sure it doesn't kill ya" ;-)
Edit: feel free to read that last as "...so I wanted to make sure it doesn't kill ya" ;-)
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Love this. I'm at 0.49 dual coil Tobh on a Paps and 0.54 dual Tobh on a Vanilla...they both can fog my living room even with the ceiling fan running, but the Vanilla in particular hits like a freight train
The funny part is when you start measuring everything and realize the volt drop is so extreme on superlow builds, you can often get more watts on a "normal subohm" build than on a crazy low one...
I wouldn't have done it, but I understand why you did. Other people, other decisions. I still think spending the atomizer money on a Nemi is the way to go, though :=)
And there it is. Superlow just isn't a good idea. Quad coil contest mod, maybe. But I can't think of anyplace else. That's not where the flavor or the vapor is.
Since the nemesis is mentioned above, I think it worth mentioning that ever since I got my $5 3d rtda and put it on my $10 nemesis in true hybrid (emphasis TRUE HYBRID) mode, I've hardly put it down. I might get myself a few more of this combo.
The SMPL is a corner cutting FAKE HYBRID
The SMPL is a corner cutting FAKE HYBRID
Agreed on both counts! Nemesis is the best starter mod in my book. There's more ease, safety, room to learn, and frankly the SMPL isn't even my hardest hitting mod. The cheapo clone Vanilla even beats it on the majority of builds.
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Suprtrkr... Really...you nailed it. Cuz if OP values face & hands, some money is going to be spent. A good new battery and a usable atty aren't wishes in this case, they're musts. Might as well buy a Neme clone for less money, make his own life easier and in all probability get a better vape anyway. But not my choice lol
Just so. I love me some mech mod, Mama. Seriously. I have a mess of them and take great pleasure fiddling with them and swapping them out. Heck, I just bought a (used) MMV Nanos with the 350 tube that, with the best batteries in the world, I won't coil below .8, and it hits like a truck. I spend a lot of time trying to help folks understand how mechs work, why they're fun (and frustrating) and above all else, how to do it safely. But a SMPL, or any other faux-hybrid... I wouldn't have one in the house. There just isn't any safety anywhere around that.
To OP: One thing I have not seen other posters mention is, if you insist on the SMPL, get nipple-top batteries when you replace. It's not enough, but it might provide you with another tenth of a millimeter of safety margin.
Love it super. Only one thing I gotta say - most "hybrids" yes, nipple top batteries. But the SMPL and most clones of it have that lip inside the top-cap. They say it makes it "safer," I disagree. The lip is sometimes (often) smaller than most button tops are. So what's intended to help can make things much worse cuz the raised button then is more likely to hit the body of the mod...OP, if you're following this, that's how you get "instant pipe bomb". All the more so because the SMPL has woefully inadequate vent holes if a battery does fail. And this discussion is illustrating yet another reason we all recommend you switch mods. You can even sell the SMPL so you don't lose much money on the deal. But its just too much risk and too many variables for far too little gain.
Hard to give an answer when you haven't provided necessary info to get them.
What batteries are you using?
what resistance range do you use?
Do you have a ohms meter / multi meter?
Have you disassembled & thoroughly cleaned the firing mechanism?
Is it an authentic smpl or one of the dozens of clones?
Several of the clones have a wonky firing mechanism.
You'll need a new / different delivery device with a fixed or adjustable non spring loaded protruding center pin (1.5mm ~ 2.25mm protrusion).
2 new batteries with a sufficient CDR to safely support the amp drain / resistance range you intend to vape in.
An ohms meter or mulit meter to check for shorts and measure voltage & resistance.
By the time you buy a new delivery device, 2 batteries, ohms meter / multi meter you could've bought a regulated apv with built in safety features, ohm meter, adjustable power output and use the royal hunter you have or any other delivery device you have or might buy in the future.
I know you don't want to hear it...but sell that mod and buy something user friendly. It's simply (get it?) not a good mod for beginners. It's not even a good mod for veterans.. Vaping should be a pleasant experience....not a high risk endeavor. As you learn more, you'll understand why everyone is telling you to ditch the thing. I know it cost you a lot of money...but, so far, its cost you how much in ruined batteries? Not to mention, you can't even vape it.
Tell you what...sell that mod. Get whatever you can for it. Take the first offer. Prove to me you sold it and I'll send you a sigelei 100 watt regulated device and an authentic mechanical mod that is safe. Deal? See....we're not jerks in here. We just know the difference between a good situation and a bad situation.
Tell you what...sell that mod. Get whatever you can for it. Take the first offer. Prove to me you sold it and I'll send you a sigelei 100 watt regulated device and an authentic mechanical mod that is safe. Deal? See....we're not jerks in here. We just know the difference between a good situation and a bad situation.
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