It might seem that way. However, temperature change requires a set amount of energy Joules(J), wattage measures energy per second J/s and not total energy applied. Temperature or Nickel builds with this DNA40 will use around the same energy no matter the ohm reading or the wattage. The watts will determine how quickly it heats up. Speed does not determine how much energy is needed. The wire has a set thermal value called specific heat. This is measured in J/goC wattage is measured as J/s. So with this style processes the thing that will be varied is the wattage once up to temperature. Once it is heated up, the DNA40 will adjust wattage to keep it at the target temp +_10F. It least that is what was said in the video about temperature stability.
Thoughts on DNA40 temp control, and REO?
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It might seem that way. However, temperature change requires a set amount of energy Joules(J), wattage measures energy per second J/s and not total energy applied. Temperature or Nickel builds with this DNA40 will use around the same energy no matter the ohm reading or the wattage. The watts will determine how quickly it heats up. Speed does not determine how much energy is needed. The wire has a set thermal value called specific heat. This is measured in J/goC wattage is measured as J/s. So with this style processes the thing that will be varied is the wattage once up to temperature. Once it is heated up, the DNA40 will adjust wattage to keep it at the target temp +_10F. It least that is what was said in the video about temperature stability.
Yes, it is a market void. Many people want a DNA bottom feed, especially now with the temperature control. Just think no burnt wicks when you forget to squonk, and coils not getting gunked up daily. In addition, all of the health benefits of not burning our juice or wick. No one makes a box up to the REO level in DIY Bottom feed, or even DNA bottom feed. My thoughts were that this would be a low risk, high reward opportunity for the master. Come up with a design to test the practicality of another regulated REO, and have those of us that want it deal with the electronics. He could work up a new design, and basically have it crowd funded via the DIY market. After doing the design he could sell it as is, for DIY, or consider adding it as a full product. This would give Rob the least amount of risk/headaches to gauge market potential, it would be a Win, Win!!! Honestly, he could sell the whole thing as a kit including the board, wires, and instructions on how to assemble it. Evolv has even added mounting rails for the board.
Personally, I figure by the end of 2015 I will have a DNA40 or the next iteration in a bottom feed. Right now, redskymods, importing from europe, or the plastic DIY are the only decent options. All have their shortcomings, one is wood and has a drip cup and is pricey. Europe is going to be expensive. The last option is a very nice design, yet it is plastic, and costs north of $100 for just the shell.
Come on people, lets show some interest, instead of being negative.
I would highly doubt that a board is going to keep a coil from gunking up, much less burning the wick... Its a pipe dream... The only thing that will keep you from burning your wick is to have it nice and saturated before hitting it... As far as the gunking of the coil, it would seem unflavored nic is the way to go for that. I can understand Rob's stance on no more electronics in REO's at all. Juice and electronics just don't mix well, unless you are the most careful vaper out there. The majority have a leak or spill of some sort from time to time. I personally have never found a need to have a VV/VW device, as my coil building takes care of all that for me. I can make a coil to do what most DNA device out there can do. The majority of DNA users out there can't even use the full potential of the board anyway. The average vaper doesn't even vape over 20-25w anyway... Why have all that headroom and not even use it?
How do you squonk that thing?
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The physics is sound. The beta testers assert that it works. As long as the controller can sample resistance fast enough, and compensate in step, it will work.The chip now down regulates to 1 watt. The only purpose for this would be to control temp, no one realistically would vape at 1 watt. You cannot burn something if you are under its flash point all the time. It is very realistic, regardless of you opinion.
I don't get it. It looks like the bottle would just pop out of there if you tried to squonk it.
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Maybe the average vaper doesn't vape very high watts but personally I vape 40-50 watts all day and so do a lot of people. The other features are attractive to many people even if they never turn it up very high.
I'll never give up my mechs but a regulated, compact, well designed, durable, variable wattage bottom feeder would definitely have a prominent place in my collection. Though I would prefer a 60+ watt device.
Yes, it is a market void.......
Come on people, lets show some interest, instead of being negative.
But how big is that market? How long would it take for him to sell 100 DiY shells that cost over $180. When he could spent that time making Wood mods that will sell hundreds in an hour.
It may be the only market if the fda decides that this "safety feature" must be incorporated into all devices. I think that is why evolve went this route. I hope that doesn't happen but u know how big brother can be!
If it comes down to someone telling me I have to put a chip in my mods and it wont but if it did I would walk away from the mod building world . Its pretty simple dont burn your juice a little common sense goes a long way . Raise your ohms and change your wick and coil as needed .
I very much hope it never comes to that. I like my gear simple and durable. I haven't found any electronics that can pass the roscoe mud puddle test.
As good as the new chip sounds I am worried about a bunch of things including the nickel wire and some temp stuff. The unit will probably need time to heat up to your temp setting and I sure won't wait for my mod to heat up. If I want to vape I want to vape not wait.
But again, the most worrying part for me is the nickel.
But again, the most worrying part for me is the nickel.
You don't wait for it to heat up. It delivers maximum wattage until it heats up whatever your wattage setting is initially.
Pretty sure that's not how it works.
User specifies a wattage.
Chip outputs that wattage from the start
Once the coil hits the temperature ceiling,
chip reduces the wattage to keep temp at ceiling.
It doesn't max out wattage in order to hit the temperature set by the user.
ETA: yeap. That's pretty much what the spec sheets says too
If you watch the video, they specifically state that when in temp control mode it DOES dump a "bunch of power" when first firing. I think it's a race to temperature and resistance rather than a race to pure wattage, but that is what they said. Having not used one, I can't say for sure, but that is what the beta users have been saying as well. No reason to worry over certain gauge wires heating up slower/faster than others, because they essentially get equalized anyway.
Actually, if you look at the dna 40 spec sheet, that is also covered. The chip pushes a nominal amount of power to the coil to "pre-heat"; this amount is not even sufficient to cause vaporization of juice. This serves to reduce heat up time, but it doesn't just dump power from the get go. That's also the impression I got from PM-ing 3 other beta testers. Nods.
ANYWAYS. I'm just basing everything off evolv's spec sheets and have no personal exp. I do have a rDNA on pre-order tho.
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