Ti 4050c alternatives, only that please

[executivul]

Hello all,
I've opened this thread in hope to find the best buck-boost converter for my homemade Provari clone. I live far away from provape and buying a Provari is way out of budget, so I'm planning on building one

Searching for a buck-boost dc-dc converter has lead me to the omnipresent TI 4050c, but it has some limitations, the starting Vout is 5V with no adj resistor, and I want to go lower than that.
Requirements:
-input voltage: 3.3-4.3V as I shall use a single 18650 bat
-output voltage: 3.5-6V
-power at least 10W across the mentioned voltage interval.

Using two batteries in series and regulating down is not an option for me.
Building a complicated PCB with lots of parts is also not an option, so plug and play modules only.
Tricks fooling the 4050c to go lower than 5V output are also welcome.

Thank you.

 

[breaktru]

Search the forum my friend. The answer to you questions are found here.
Hint: Your answer is right here! Look down.

 

[executivul]

I've used the search and read almost everything,
The TI 08100 is a buck converter which needs at least 4.5V input so only one 18650 will not do, and I'm not putting in 2 of them so it's not ok.

I've found another dc-dc converter in a Weller thread in the main modding area:
Digi-Key - 811-2179-ND (Manufacturer - OKR-T/6-W12-C)

 

[breaktru]

The link is in my signature, Mods.
Use this for a direct link:
PTN04050c w/ analog pot & 14500 bat
PTN04050c w/ dig pot & 18650 bat

Please don't sue me for patent infringement

 

[drewk302]

vv mods, and the booster mods work awesome, I have both. I would really like to see some way to really clone the provari. I just go mine and all I can say is take a vv mod and mix it with a multimeter and more.

 

[Worldgod]

I've found another dc-dc converter in a Weller thread in the main modding area:
Digi-Key - 811-2179-ND (Manufacturer - OKR-T/6-W12-C)

That one says "Voltage - Input 4.5 ~ 14V"

Maybe a 4050 with a 3A Adjustable step down switching voltage regulator kinda spendy and I can't recall who pointed me to that one to begin with...ehhh thas what Im thinkin but I'm kinda a newb

 

[breaktru]

That one says "Voltage - Input 4.5 ~ 14V"

Maybe a 4050 with a 3A Adjustable step down switching voltage regulator kinda spendy and I can't recall who pointed me to that one to begin with...ehhh thas what Im thinkin but I'm kinda a newb

That's a great replacement for the PTR08100w when using two batteries W.G. and don't want to add the additional parts.
But if you're using only one battery, I can only find the PTN04050c Booster.

 

[Worldgod]

Could ya use the 4050 and set to say 7.2 with the 1.2 dropout of http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SWADJ3.htm? that would put max at 6? Then use the 3A Adjustable step down switching voltage regulator Could still use just one battery that way but it would def take up more space....idk just kinda thinkin outloud.

EDIT...I guess that is what you were talkin about...my bad...Imma lil slow today

 

[breaktru]

Could ya use the 4050 and set to say 7.2 with the 1.2 dropout of 3A Adjustable step down switching voltage regulator that would put max at 6? Then use the 3A Adjustable step down switching voltage regulator Could still use just one battery that way but it would def take up more space....idk just kinda thinkin outloud.

EDIT...I guess that is what you were talkin about...my bad...Imma lil slow today

Not sure I am clear on what you would like the final out come to be. Why can't you use just the PTN04050c with one battery and wire it to a voltage range of your choice shown in this table: Voltage Range Selection

 

[SurvivorMcGyver]

Hello all,
I've opened this thread in hope to find the best buck-boost converter for my homemade Provari clone. I live far away from provape and buying a Provari is way out of budget, so I'm planning on building one

Searching for a buck-boost dc-dc converter has lead me to the omnipresent TI 4050c, but it has some limitations, the starting Vout is 5V with no adj resistor, and I want to go lower than that.
Requirements:
-input voltage: 3.3-4.3V as I shall use a single 18650 bat
-output voltage: 3.5-6V
-power at least 10W across the mentioned voltage interval.

Using two batteries in series and regulating down is not an option for me.
Building a complicated PCB with lots of parts is also not an option, so plug and play modules only.
Tricks fooling the 4050c to go lower than 5V output are also welcome.

Thank you.

To my knowledge, there are no POL (point of load) ready built, "plug and play" power modules that will provide what you are asking.

Seems there are no practicle (from a business sense) applications (other than ours) that would require it

To that end .... It's a design and build world. When you get there though - patent it quick before The Buzz steps in a steals it.

 

[SurvivorMcGyver]

As an added note

 

[executivul]

Thank you for your replies. You are very kind.

In my mod I have to include a microcontroller, an lcd, a digitally controlled resistor, it will be something between the provari and the darwin, maybe I'll use a Nokia 3310 style display in a box mod instead of a 2 digit 7 segment display so I can always see voltage, intensity, wattage, resistance. So space wise I don't know if I can cram two modules in there.
I've seen the diode diagram myself and thought about it, that diode drops the voltage by 0.7V or 1.4V, so 3 amp x 1.4 = 4.2 watts of lost power to the atty and heat inside the circuit... My 2 cents.
I'll have the 4050c samples here in a few days I hope and I'll start testing, maybe under load the vout drops, I shall see.
Any other ideas are welcome.

 

[breaktru]

To my knowledge, there are no POL (point of load) ready built, "plug and play" power modules that will provide what you are asking.

Seems they are not practical (from a business sense) applications (other than ours) that would require it

Unless W.G. would like to put 6 of these in parallel at 20 bucks a pop: AnyVolt Micro
2.6V to 14V output voltage range
2.6V to 14V input voltage range
0.5 amps x 6 = 3 amps

 

[executivul]

Just wondering howcome nobody took apart a provari, how they do it? 3.3-6V output from a single cell... Maybe a custom buck-boost. I've seen on TI's page a controller for a buck-boost dc-dc converter, but it requires a few external parts, including coils and it's not dyi pcb friendly, and I'm not in the position to order custom pcbs.

 

[breaktru]

Just wondering howcome nobody took apart a provari, how they do it? 3.3-6V output from a single cell... Maybe a custom buck-boost. I've seen on TI's page a controller for a buck-boost dc-dc converter, but it requires a few external parts, including coils and it's not dyi pcb friendly, and I'm not in the position to order custom pcbs.

I think it's more like how do I get the parts or contracting out the circuit build to the Chinese.

 

[executivul]

The TPS43000 (Switching Regulator - DC/DC Controller (External Switch) - TPS43000 - TI.com) does everything we need:
High-Frequency (2-MHz) Voltage Mode PWM Controller
1.8-V to 9.0-V Input Voltage Range
0.8-V to 8.0-V Output Voltage Range (Higher in Non-Synchronous Boost Topology)
High-Efficiency Buck, Boost, SEPIC or Flyback (Buck-Boost) Topology
Synchronous Rectification for High-Efficiency
Drives External MOSFETs for High-Current Applications
Synchronizable Fixed-Frequency PWM or Automatic Pulsed Frequency Modulation (PFM) Mode
Built-In Soft-Start
User Programmable Discontinuous or Continuous Conduction Mode
Selectable Pulse-by-Pulse Current Limiting or Hiccup Mode Protection

Unfortunately requires quite a lot of other components to work, as I've said hard for a dyi pcb.

 

[executivul]

The TI TPS63020 (http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps63020.html) would be another option, simpler pcb design but packaging restricts home soldering, and it requires a heatsink, also not usable in my diy project.

 

[breaktru]

exe, I looked at all of the TI's regulators and I believe the two switched regs used here on ECF are the best to use.

 

[breaktru]

Thank you for your replies. You are very kind.

In my mod I have to include a microcontroller, an lcd, a digitally controlled resistor, it will be something between the provari and the darwin, maybe I'll use a Nokia 3310 style display in a box mod instead of a 2 digit 7 segment display so I can always see voltage, intensity, wattage, resistance. So space wise I don't know if I can cram two modules in there.
I've seen the diode diagram myself and thought about it, that diode drops the voltage by 0.7V or 1.4V, so 3 amp x 1.4 = 4.2 watts of lost power to the atty and heat inside the circuit... My 2 cents.
I'll have the 4050c samples here in a few days I hope and I'll start testing, maybe under load the vout drops, I shall see.
Any other ideas are welcome.

exec, I seen the Nokia 3310 and other cell phone displaces w/ MCU's used. It's a great concept for the PV but you are limited to a BOX mod due to sizing. The price of the MCU is also a factor.

 

[Gummy Bear]

I fail to understand what is wrong with the 4050. It is a snap to get it below 5volts.
The forum is full of instructions on how to do it.