3-2-5 Mod

Status
Not open for further replies.

TomCatt

Da Catt
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 8, 2011
4,162
18,320
Upland, PA
WTH? LOL.

I thought there would be a main chip to look up.

A mosfet and a diode so far. :)

The diode family is interesting.



Those volt drops correspond to the SS52B, SS53B, SS54B, SS55B and SS56B, SS58B and SS510B.

Thanks for the info.

:?: yeah :?:

:D


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 

CraigHB

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 31, 2010
1,249
314
Reno, Nevada
"What the hell is that noise??"

In my own work with DC-DC converters, I've come across several situations that can make them whine. From an engineering standpoint, it can actually be quite involved to make a converter quiet under all possible conditions.

DC-DC converters are naturally unstable so it's not a trivial matter to perfectly stabilize one of any type. It's because control has to compensate for the natural instability of the circuit and that can be a complicated thing. The goal is to make the converter "unconditionally stable".

A converter can be stable under some conditions and unstable under other conditions. For example, under various input voltages and output currents. When you run into an unstable condition, the converter may whine and voltage may fall off, but not necessarily. It's because the converter's controller is taking duty cycle from tap to tap in its failure to properly control the output. That can happen at a frequency in the audible range which results in a whining noise.

Another thing that can make a converter whine is when it hits current limiting (as determined by the controller chip). Typically, the converter resets and restarts in this case. If the converter is reseting and restarting at a rate in the audible range, it makes noise.

A converter may whine if it drops in and out of continuous and discontinuous conduction mode. That happens at the transition point between heavy and light load which is dependant on design. If the converter transitions back and forth at an audible frequency, again, you can hear a noise.

A cheap inductor can resonate in the audible range even under ideal conditions due to alternating magnetic forces on the inductor core imposed by the switching frequency and ouput load. A good converter uses the encapsulated/shielded type of inductor that is not prone to audible resonance. Those are the square solid looking inductors you see on the OKR-T and TI switching modules.

In general, DC-DC converters can be noisy things and it takes some highly detailed engineering to make them quiet under all conditions. I wouldn't expect perfection from an inexpensive converter module designed in China and purchased off eBay. You'll probably have to live with some noise or upgrade to a higher quality part like one of the Murata or TI modules.
 

TomCatt

Da Catt
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 8, 2011
4,162
18,320
Upland, PA
It's not until after ~4 hours of moderate vaping that I hear this module start to whine; using a single 1200mAh 18350 battery. With a freshly charged battery there is no noise coming from the module.

I understand quite clearly that you get what you pay for. Right now I'm looking at "all-in-one" voltage regulator modules that appear to be viable units for PV modding. Are there US made modules with voltage regulator, capacitors, inductors, resistors, etc on a single PCB with connections for Vin and Vout the only thing needed, that is viable for e-cigs? :)


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 

Para

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 15, 2010
2,812
1,180
Texas
Nice TC, looks like you found your ideal setup.
You can even go smaller with the box.

That would be an great fit in the 1.62" x 2.4" x .80" box from madvapes. You can even mount the 18350 "sideways" which would leave room for the chip, switch, and wiring.

Here's the box w/2 18350's to get an idea of all the room inside.

newbox4.jpg
 

TomCatt

Da Catt
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 8, 2011
4,162
18,320
Upland, PA
That would be an great fit in the 1.62" x 2.4" x .80" box from madvapes. You can even mount the 18350 "sideways" which would leave room for the chip, switch, and wiring.

Here's the box w/2 18350's to get an idea of all the room inside.

newbox4.jpg


:D Yeah, good one Para! I need extra room in a box so I can get my head in there to see what I'm doing :lol: I doubt very much that I'll ever even come close to the finesse at modding that you have shown.

Thanks!
 

TomCatt

Da Catt
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 8, 2011
4,162
18,320
Upland, PA
Think I got a dud...
I just had one of these delivered today. Unloaded it's pushing out 5.24 volts but as I loaded it with a 3.2 ohm atty, the voltage dropped to 3.073 volts and was only pushing out .933 amps.

Bummer.

I ended up disassembling the 3-2-5 with the intent to reconfigure with 2 18350s in parallel; then got distracted :D. It's in some box somewhere :blink:, I'm pretty sure it is ... :?:

:D
 

jasl90

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 30, 2012
1,688
1,754
Jacksonville, FL
Nice set up.
Thanks. Gotta love eBay sellers that think there's something wrong with a Fluke because the voltage reading goes haywire when the leads are open.

Good to see some real numbers for once. What are you using for a power source?
Good call on the power source question... The power source was in fact the problem... Not the converter. I was using a variable voltage wallwart that wasn't able to supply enough current. And yes, I'm feeling very stupid at the moment.

I retested with an AW IMR 18650 and it worked like a champ. Using the battery it only took a 1/2 volt drop and delivered just over 2.2A with a 2.2 ohm cart attached.

I'll try to get some new pics added tomorrow, so you can see some real numbers with my stupid removed from the equation.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread