@gummy bear: the only way I've seen is using a diode in series with the atomizer and losing aprox 4 Watts. What other ways?
Ti 4050c alternatives, only that please
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No you don't need a diode, (unless you just want one).
The spec sheet shows that the resistor (either fixed or variable) be placed between the gnd and adj pins.
that gives the base voltage of 5v and up. If you place the resistor between the Adj and v.out pins it will go lower.
credit to Breaktru for this info.
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,215.msg468.html#msg468
Pick your output voltage range by substituting the 100k fixed resistor shown across Pins 3 and 4 of the regulator with one of these resistors in the chart below. The output voltages are with NO load. With a load attached the output voltage will drop a few tenths of a volt.
Resistor - Low Voltage - High Voltage
15k 3.67v 4.74v
22k 3.77v 5.18v
47k 4.24v 5.95v
56k 4.34v 6.1v
100k 4.56v 6.45v
The spec sheet shows that the resistor (either fixed or variable) be placed between the gnd and adj pins.
that gives the base voltage of 5v and up. If you place the resistor between the Adj and v.out pins it will go lower.
credit to Breaktru for this info.
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,215.msg468.html#msg468
Pick your output voltage range by substituting the 100k fixed resistor shown across Pins 3 and 4 of the regulator with one of these resistors in the chart below. The output voltages are with NO load. With a load attached the output voltage will drop a few tenths of a volt.
Resistor - Low Voltage - High Voltage
15k 3.67v 4.74v
22k 3.77v 5.18v
47k 4.24v 5.95v
56k 4.34v 6.1v
100k 4.56v 6.45v
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Hey Gum, Thought I might point out something about the table:
The table that I made above was with actual resistors not accounting for + or - resistor tolerances and with the diode wired in.
good point.
the no load voltage out will be different without the diode.
For me it made for more room in the mod not to put in the diode. Changing the resistor values to get a given output vs keeping the diode and stated values in exchange for space. This resistor or that resistor, to me doesn't take up any more space in the mod.
Space is always at a price.
the no load voltage out will be different without the diode.
For me it made for more room in the mod not to put in the diode. Changing the resistor values to get a given output vs keeping the diode and stated values in exchange for space. This resistor or that resistor, to me doesn't take up any more space in the mod.
Space is always at a price.
Have you tried dialing to the lowest voltage and trying a low resistance atty like the Dual Coil?
It may kick out the booster. Mine does on the 14500 but not on the 18650.
update:
What I was trying to point out is even the lowest voltage was too high for an LR atty.
It may kick out the booster. Mine does on the 14500 but not on the 18650.
update:
What I was trying to point out is even the lowest voltage was too high for an LR atty.
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I don't care for lower ohm attys. (<3 ohms.)
My boosted mod is on an 18650 fixed with an 82K resistor giving 4.4v so the 3.2 ohms is my sweet spot. for adj mod I use the switching DC - DC board from the "very easy VV mod". @ 7.2 v in.
What did make a big difference was changing from 3600 mAh ultrafires to 2400 IMRs. The IMRs last almost all day and the ultrafires I would change out 3 times per day. The higher C rating of the IMRs made the thing last a lot longer.
My boosted mod is on an 18650 fixed with an 82K resistor giving 4.4v so the 3.2 ohms is my sweet spot. for adj mod I use the switching DC - DC board from the "very easy VV mod". @ 7.2 v in.
What did make a big difference was changing from 3600 mAh ultrafires to 2400 IMRs. The IMRs last almost all day and the ultrafires I would change out 3 times per day. The higher C rating of the IMRs made the thing last a lot longer.
The Booster mod with the 18650 is by far the better choice than with the 14500. The 14500 in my .44 mod was more like a novelty mod than a serious vaping tool. Although it performs pretty good, better than I thought it would. Got to try some IMR's one of these days. I get pretty good life on my Trustfires and Ultafires. Gum, you must be a vaping machine. How much juice do you suck up a day? Or you got those bad Ultrafires that I've been hearing about.
When I dripped I would go through 6 to 8 ml /day. (lots of wasted juice with flooding the atty) With a ce2 and a 5 ml tank I only use about 3 or 4 ml/day now. It more than likely was just some bad ones. But it is seldom that anyone around here talks about fuel economy. Different attys are bound to use juice at different rates.
To my knowledge, there are no POL (point of load) ready built, "plug and play" power modules that will provide what you are asking.
Seems there are no practicle (from a business sense) applications (other than ours) that would require it
To that end .... It's a design and build world. When you get there though - patent it quick before The Buzz steps in a steals it.
Nice really nice I stole nothing , not understanding patent law just make you look uninformed sorry but its true .
According to the TI datasheet the 4050 has a min 5 volt output but it sounds like BReakthru fixed that ,
Now back to stealing ideas so I can waste money patenting them .
Also the TPS63020 is a good IC for this and uses a minimum of components BUT you cannot hand solder it !
I had test pcb's mad a few months back and they were a total ..... to make and to get machine soldered .
There some other ones that have regular leads BUT they have a bottom pad that cannot be hand soldered as well so ???
Now back to stealing ideas so I can waste money patenting them .
Also the TPS63020 is a good IC for this and uses a minimum of components BUT you cannot hand solder it !
I had test pcb's mad a few months back and they were a total ..... to make and to get machine soldered .
There some other ones that have regular leads BUT they have a bottom pad that cannot be hand soldered as well so ???
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Hi @buzz,
Welcome, I've been reading your vvpv (new technology) thread with interest. Can you give us some insider views? What converter from what big company are you using in it?
Nobody plans to steal anything, I am just too far away with too little resources, so I'm building my own decent, good looking vv pv, talked to a lathe machine guy and he can make me the stainless steel tubes for about $10, if I can order a converter sample with a simple design to fit my tube I'm all set. I've droped the Nokia display design and went for a 2x 7 segment like the Provari. The 18650 and charger will be the most expensive parts at about $30, ramping the costs up to $50 for the whole device.
Thank you.
Welcome, I've been reading your vvpv (new technology) thread with interest. Can you give us some insider views? What converter from what big company are you using in it?
Nobody plans to steal anything, I am just too far away with too little resources, so I'm building my own decent, good looking vv pv, talked to a lathe machine guy and he can make me the stainless steel tubes for about $10, if I can order a converter sample with a simple design to fit my tube I'm all set. I've droped the Nokia display design and went for a 2x 7 segment like the Provari. The 18650 and charger will be the most expensive parts at about $30, ramping the costs up to $50 for the whole device.
Thank you.
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@ executivul
could you link to the thread you mentioned above, I hardly ever get out of the modder's threads and this a big place, easy to get lost in, I might not be able to find my way home.
could you link to the thread you mentioned above, I hardly ever get out of the modder's threads and this a big place, easy to get lost in, I might not be able to find my way home.
Sorry but I can not tell you yet . the 4050c seems to be the best choice so far, in a tube it will be hard to make it a small size control package with an LED display BUT you could use 2 PCB's one that is flat and the 4050c that stands UP and plugs into it.
@gummy: These are the threads: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/146738-new-technology.html and http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/88038-buzz-varivolt-pvs-coming-soon.html
It's a really big forum down here
@buzz: I've got the same 2 pcbs design in my head the main problem is now soldering the lcd connection, a lot of very small wires. One question though, is your chip worth the waiting? I mean once you go public about it will I be able to use it or it needs it's custom pcb like his TI siblings?
It's a really big forum down here
@buzz: I've got the same 2 pcbs design in my head
the main problem is now soldering the lcd connection, a lot of very small wires. One question though, is your chip worth the waiting? I mean once you go public about it will I be able to use it or it needs it's custom pcb like his TI siblings?
Actually, the TPS63020 reflow solders quite nicely in a toaster oven, preferably convection, as do the ones with a bottom solder pad.
With the requirements listed at the start of this post, the sepic converter is the best solution as it does not have the same problem when VIn = Vout as the Buck-Boost does.
I resorted to designing my own sepic at 1/4 the size, the same input/output range, and twice the current, but this one is available to purchase with adjustment included:
Digital Products Company :: Batteries & Power :: Adjustable Voltage Regulator, 1-35V SEPIC Type
Well hell if you can get them to stay in place then you are ahead of the hobby curve for sure !
the TPS63020 from what I found fit the bill the best all around but that does not mean I looked at everything !
@gummy: These are the threads: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/146738-new-technology.html and http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/88038-buzz-varivolt-pvs-coming-soon.html
It's a really big forum down here
@buzz: I've got the same 2 pcbs design in my head
use a stand up type like the 4050 and connect it at a right angle to the flat PCB that can have the pot ot pads for the LED meter , to me the LED meter is a waste to a degree , the external voltage meters are so cheap .
plus it will take up a large amount of space , put a wheel pot and just color code it ;.
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That's true and Nuck originally pointed out how to 'trick' the booster with a resistor. But you won't find this ADJ-> Vout 'trick' in the datasheets. These boosters are made to boost, not step down. How this trick actually affects the the chip and it's efficiency has never been fully explored. It has been inferred that it is better than a diode. Certainly beyond my skill set.
Using a diode seems to be the best/safest way to drop the voltage from the default 5V as the chip is now working as it was designed.
These boosters, depending on a user's specific needs (higher ohm loads like yours) can work quite well.
But for more versatility and the higher amp draws that many want, the more traditional stacked cell step downs are a better choice.
But Willy, If the chip's v out is 4.4 and the batt is @ 3.7 then it is boosting.
I haven't found a sepic that is as small as the 4050.
I haven't found a sepic that is as small as the 4050.
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Never the less, they do exist.
I also have a Boost Converter which measures .50 X .65
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