Oh, one cute thing, evapegr messaged me on Youtube in very bad English (obv. not his first language) that he hoped I liked this way better than a hummer....
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Wish I had thought or em before dropping $3300 to replace a tooth my wife broke.
Thanks for this thread Antfuz and RockinRobbieSF the video's. I love to tinker and would have probably gotten through this but this thread saved me from many fumbles.
Just finished my first wick/coil replacement and it went very well, in fact, incredibly simple. I tend to vape 'darker' flavors and my wick/coils get really gummed up. I can now knock this off in about five minutes once a week and I'm good as new. My first 'mistake' was four wraps which resulted in a 4.0 ohms. I'm using it on a VV so no real problem there. Second was the wick I have is very small in diameter so next time I think I'll double up the wick.
Bonuses. I now have a wick length that will not require me to hold my pv upside down when I'm getting low just to keep it wet.
Just finished my first wick/coil replacement and it went very well, in fact, incredibly simple. I tend to vape 'darker' flavors and my wick/coils get really gummed up. I can now knock this off in about five minutes once a week and I'm good as new. My first 'mistake' was four wraps which resulted in a 4.0 ohms. I'm using it on a VV so no real problem there. Second was the wick I have is very small in diameter so next time I think I'll double up the wick.
Bonuses. I now have a wick length that will not require me to hold my pv upside down when I'm getting low just to keep it wet.
I want!
You know after I took it apart to clean and burn the gunk off, it works better than before. Granted it might just be that the coil has broken in.
Thanks Greek guy, Antfuz, Estarra, and Big Screen D!
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I want!
You know after I took it apart to clean and burn the gunk off, it works better than before. Granted it might just be that the coil has broken in.
Thanks Greek guy, Antfuz, Estarra, and Big Screen D!
Seemed like a good idea, but it really doesn't work! Regular pliers worked like a charm though!
Just did the wick replacement and coil rewrap. Is there any reason I shouldn't use the same coil? Once I got the metal collar off it was very simple to take apart, thanks!
Used 4wraps, I may have screwed it up, took it apart again and only did 3 wraps, and on my crappy fake ego batts, they push maybe 3.4..., I get some great vapor. On my ego batt I get tons of vapor.
Used 4wraps, I may have screwed it up, took it apart again and only did 3 wraps, and on my crappy fake ego batts, they push maybe 3.4..., I get some great vapor. On my ego batt I get tons of vapor.
You sir's (or madams) are geniuses. I would have never have thought of using coils from old ce2's. I think I still have like 10 that are dead sitting in a dresser somewhere.
I really gotta catch up on here.
Found out that yes you can reuse the coil from your old cartos and ce2s! Ive also been using cleaned wicks from my ce2/3. I wrap the coil around the bottom of a hanging wick then snip it after complete, you could probably completely rebuild a wick and coil at least 4 times with one ce2/3.
Also found that using a pipe cutter GENTLY right where the silver collar meets the plastic helps a great deal in trying to get that darn thing off. You only need to go in very little to break that initial resistance, too far and you will crack it, as evidenced by my cracked (and super glued, which fixed it) tube. After that use some needle nose to pull it off.
BTW the wire going down the center needs the be about a 1/4 inch the wire on the outside can be pretty short, I had to remake mine a few times cause I made the center wire too short...
You can use a needle or other pointy, thin thing, between the inner rubber plug when you are trying to get the outside wire in between the plug and the metal tube. Just use the extra space created to put in the wire then pull the prop out, I've been using my needle tweezers to great effect.
Also I've been using needle nose to grab the end of the wire to wrap around the wick, makes for a nice tight coil. I may buy a fly fishing fly making kit just to make this easier, I guess alligator clamps on a stand could also work.
Thanks for the great tutorial!
Also found that using a pipe cutter GENTLY right where the silver collar meets the plastic helps a great deal in trying to get that darn thing off. You only need to go in very little to break that initial resistance, too far and you will crack it, as evidenced by my cracked (and super glued, which fixed it) tube. After that use some needle nose to pull it off.
BTW the wire going down the center needs the be about a 1/4 inch the wire on the outside can be pretty short, I had to remake mine a few times cause I made the center wire too short...
You can use a needle or other pointy, thin thing, between the inner rubber plug when you are trying to get the outside wire in between the plug and the metal tube. Just use the extra space created to put in the wire then pull the prop out, I've been using my needle tweezers to great effect.
Also I've been using needle nose to grab the end of the wire to wrap around the wick, makes for a nice tight coil. I may buy a fly fishing fly making kit just to make this easier, I guess alligator clamps on a stand could also work.
Thanks for the great tutorial!
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So the other day I attempted to get the supplies mentioned and give this a go. They, of course, did not have what I needed where I went so I put things on the back burner until I could swing back into the store with one of the stardusts in hand to look for something else to use instead. While I haven't made it back to the store, I was feeling brave this morning, so I went to the toolbox and grabbed a few things I thought might work. Now I won't go into details on attempt #1, but let's just say that stardust is unrecognizable now. 
I did, however, learn from attempt #1 and am happy to say I have found a very easy method for taking these things apart (sure....I've heard that one before). 
The edge of the inner base (ribbed metal piece inside), stops perfectly in line with the edge of the outer ring. This, combined with the dimensions of the two pieces puts the plastic in a bind making it nearly impossible to just slip the ring off. Coincidently, I believe that this "binding" of the plastic is a major contributor to the cracking. All of my cracking starts at the point referred to earlier, where the plastic is incurring the most amount of pressure. Anyway, what I actually do to get these off....
1. Remove the drip tip (nothing else needs to be removed)
2. Place the stardust on a hard surface (I used a desk with a towel on it), top side down.
Now you'll need any hard object (I used the base side of a punch) that is small enough to go inside the base ring, but larger than the thread base itself. Your goal is to make solid contact with the inner base, but do so with something that's not going to damage the threads. For example, a 5/32 piece of steel rod would be perfect. Anyone that has a toolbox will more than likely have something in it that will do the job, so don't necessarily run out to the store.
3. You're actually going to tap the inner base further into the tube...yes further. Gently with a hammer, it does not take much force at all, tap until you feel it nudge. Look to see if there is a gap between the outer and inner ring....it was enough for me when I saw about 2mm worth of gap. Not much at all, but enough to tell.
4. Grab the outer ring with pliers (I have the old masking tape wrapped pliers trick) and just give the big ring a wiggle, it should come right off.
5. Screw a battery onto the connector, and with very little effort, the inner portion should slide right out.
I found that by pushing the inner components up into the tube a little it relieved the pressure that was holding everything together enough to get the base ring off.
I did, however, learn from attempt #1 and am happy to say I have found a very easy method for taking these things apart (sure....I've heard that one before). The edge of the inner base (ribbed metal piece inside), stops perfectly in line with the edge of the outer ring. This, combined with the dimensions of the two pieces puts the plastic in a bind making it nearly impossible to just slip the ring off. Coincidently, I believe that this "binding" of the plastic is a major contributor to the cracking. All of my cracking starts at the point referred to earlier, where the plastic is incurring the most amount of pressure. Anyway, what I actually do to get these off....
1. Remove the drip tip (nothing else needs to be removed)
2. Place the stardust on a hard surface (I used a desk with a towel on it), top side down.
Now you'll need any hard object (I used the base side of a punch) that is small enough to go inside the base ring, but larger than the thread base itself. Your goal is to make solid contact with the inner base, but do so with something that's not going to damage the threads. For example, a 5/32 piece of steel rod would be perfect. Anyone that has a toolbox will more than likely have something in it that will do the job, so don't necessarily run out to the store.
3. You're actually going to tap the inner base further into the tube...yes further. Gently with a hammer, it does not take much force at all, tap until you feel it nudge. Look to see if there is a gap between the outer and inner ring....it was enough for me when I saw about 2mm worth of gap. Not much at all, but enough to tell.
4. Grab the outer ring with pliers (I have the old masking tape wrapped pliers trick) and just give the big ring a wiggle, it should come right off.
5. Screw a battery onto the connector, and with very little effort, the inner portion should slide right out.
I found that by pushing the inner components up into the tube a little it relieved the pressure that was holding everything together enough to get the base ring off.
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Can anyone clue me in?.. I received replacement outer tubes to replace cracked Stardusts from Gotvapes, the tubes are longer than the bodies that came on originals. Is it necessary to cut down the replacements b4 reassembling?.. I assume it's a must ... as the mouthpiece will not seal off at the seal above the atty. how is the best way to do this??
I'm tired of messing with mine. I have a bag of 11 of them. 2 have blown coils. About 2/3 are LR and have holes drilled in the skirts. I need room in my Vaping box. I'll even throw in a piece of wick and kanthal wire for some who wants to rebuild them. They ALL need cleaned. PM me and I'll cut y'all a good deal on them.
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