Tobecco DNA 30 blinking ohm symbol

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GunMonkeyINTL

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No, the dna board (and it's clones) are variable wattage only. If you do the math, you can set the wattage to end up at the voltage you want, or keep adjusting the wattage and test-firing till you get to the voltage you want.

The blinking ohms reading means that the chip can't regulate down to the voltage determined by the resistance of your coil and the wattage you set. It will still fire, but at unregulated voltage and higher wattage than you're asking it to. Bump the wattage up until it no longer blinks when you fire it, and you've found the minimum power it will regulate at for that coil. Or, put a higher resistance coil in it so it requires more voltage to fire.
 

CharliesTheMan

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GunMonkeyINTL was spot on, the only thing I'll add, is that when you're below the level that is regulated and the ohm symbol blinks, by unregulated voltage he means that you'll be dumping whatever voltage your battery has. If it's fresh off the charge it will be 4.2 volts, used a lil while it will be 3.9, etc until the battery discharges to where the current is below the minimum battery cutoff.

Reading between the lines from your post, I tend to think you're needing higher ohm coils. The DNA really shines at 1.2 - 1.4 ohm coils in my opinion, but there's a lot of research you can find online to help you find your sweet spot. If the ramp up time is too long with a certain coil wrap, try a smaller guage wire. 28 gauge and smaller is what most will tell you vapes the best.
 

GunMonkeyINTL

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I just checked my DNA device with a VTC4 that just came off the (USB onboard) charger a couple hours ago, so it still has a near full charge.

With a 1.4 ohm coil at 7 watts, which should be 3.1v, it says it is firing at 3.9v and the resistance figure is flashing. At 3.9v, on that 1.4 ohm coil, it is actually firing at 10.9 watts.

With a 2.0 ohm coil (the highest I have here) at 7 watts, which should be 3.7v, it says it is firing at 3.9v and the resistance figure is flashing. At 3.9v, on that 2.0 ohm coil, it is actually firing at 7.6 watts - just above the minimum wattage setting. My guess is that if I were to let the battery discharge down to 3.7v and fire the 2.0 ohm coil at 7 watts, it would stop flashing. If I can remember not to plug it in and let it discharge that low, I'll try it again and report back.

So, if 7 watts really is the magic number you want to hit, and you want it to regulate all the way through the voltage range of your battery's charge, you will need a 2.4 ohm (or higher) coil. At 4.1v, that 2.4 ohm coil would fire at 7 watts. As the battery discharges down to 4.0v, it would start regulating the charge up, and would continue doing so throughout the discharge of the battery.

My recommendation is to experiment a little with higher wattage, though. That 1.5 ohm coil in your kayfun is right around what I've been told was the sweet spot for that tank and this chip. The minimum wattage that would allow the DNA to regulate throughout the charge of the battery is 11.3 watts. If you set your wattage to that or a little higher, it should continue to regulate all the way through the charge of the battery.

I would actually give 14-15 watts a try. I run my Fogger 4.4 (which is the only RBA like a kayfun that I own) with 1.4 ohm coil at 16-20 watts depending on the juice I have in it. In fact, I find that I end up running all of my atomizers/tanks (which range from 1.3 - 2.0 ohms) at wattages that come out to 4.5 - 5.5v, depending on the juice and the type of coil/wick I have in it. It gives a quick to build, slightly warm vapor that is by no means hot/burnt or extremely taxing on the device.

Don't be afraid of a little more power. At 1.5 ohms and 18 watts, you're smack in the middle of the range of what the device was designed to do- a good, safe place to be.
 
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