tobh rda v3 on hades clones help!!!

[jch904]

hey ladies and gents im somewhat new to rdas and dripping. i have a hades 26650 clone with a tobh atty.
heres the problem. i can vape 28 gauge wrapped about 4/5 times at .4 plus ohms but...
when i stepped up to a 22 gauge and put it on an ohm meter it comes out to about .22 ohms witch im fine with but it will mot fire on my 26650 mod.
how ever it will fire and vape on my kecig k100+ any sugestions.
i took it to my local vape shop and they tried to sell me new stuff
also if it helps im running a trustfire 5k mAh 3.7v li-ion battery for about two hours i thought i was dead so i charged both batteries and still nothing...
im so lost on this

 

[Garym93]

First off don't let a trust fire battery anywhere near a .4 build let alone a .22 this is very very likely far over the amp limit of your batteries as they are most likely ICR. I can't help you on the other question but you should probably get some mnke's or something for those builds


Edit: ok I was wrong those are IMR batts but you should definitely not use them for those builds. Those batteries are only rated 10 Amps continuous


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Wraith504]

 

[amtseung]

As a rule of thumb, any battery that has fire in its name is a bad omen. It sounds superstitious, but the only batteries to have exploded unintentionally were trustfires and surefires.
Second, your Hades not firing probably has nothing to do with the battery. Take the entire mod apart, making sure you remember or document where every little c-clip, spring, and knob goes. Then clean out everything, focusing especially on cleaning the threads, the switch, the 510 area, and the battery contacts. If this doesn't fix it, come back to us, and we'll begin the brainstorming and troubleshooting.

Good luck! And get better batteries. Sony VTC series batteries and MNKE batteries are good options. Efests are not recommended.

 

[Wraith504]

Dont try using that thing till you get mnkes or sonys IMO.

 

[Susan~S]

To quote Baditude (our resident battery expert): "Read up. It's homework time!"

Battery Basics for Mods contains a list of recommended high-drain IMR or IMR/hybrid batteries for use in a mechanical mod.

Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries describes what an IMR, IMR/hybrid, and ICR battery are. Explains what the letters & numbers mean on batteries.

Why is the amp rating important when choosing batteries for a mechanical mod and RBA? Explain It To The Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law calculations

Information Resources for Your First RBA An essential read and referrance guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised

Concerning battery chargers: Any charger from Pila, Xtar, Nitecore, or the Efest LUC will be appropriate for your application. The more money you invest in a charger, the more features you'll get. Considering that batteries are the MOST IMPORTANT investment you will make in your vape setup, it makes sense to use a high quality charger.

The previous recommendation of reputable vendors to purchase batteries and chargers are highly recommended to avoid getting counterfeit batteries, which is a growing problem.

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics

 

[Hemptation]

Yea man. Trash those trust fires. I have heard several really experienced vapor heads tell me that. Sony. Panasonic. Find something that meets your requirements. For the build and mod. And do the business.


And I also have only heard from danger issues coming from the "fire" named batteries.

 

[Warpigs]

All I can hear is BOOM!!!!! Vape safe my friend. Don't hurt yourself or others

 

[p7willm]

First, get new batteries.

Second, good on you for checking resistance.

Third, there is probably a bad connection or something else wrong. What you have is basically a tube with a switch so whatever coil you put on it should fire, even it it also fires the battery.

The problem could be anywhere. I once spent an hour finding out the wrap on my battery was too big for the switch in my mec. You will need a volt/ohm meter, one with leads you can test with. Take the battery out and use the ohm meter to check the path from the switch on the bottom through to the pin on the top to make sure everything is working. Check the atty. Put the battery in and switch to volts and find out were it stops. Think of it like a game. The moment when you slap you forehead and say there it is feels great.