Top fill vs bottom fill
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I can-- and do-- go either way. Each tank has its own quirks. I top fill my Alleria and a number of others, but on my Boreas I take the bottom off (it has a removable deck without emptying the tank) and fill it through the JFC holes. Whatever works for you. When I top fill, I like to invert the tank for the last half-turn of threads to prevent the dreaded "juice puke" through the wick holes. This is, IMHO, another good reason to bottom fill: the tank is already inverted. II generally seem to get less leaking with bottom fill than top fill, which lowers my paper towel consumption. Aside from that, not a big deal either way.
One word: Squonkers!
One word: Squonkers!
Then it would look funny
& most heat sinks I'v seen are on the atty end.For me this isn't a total loss, I'm pretty handy with mod building & will just remove the chip & reuse it in a DIY mod when the time comes
not to mention all the paint came off it to & I really hate the battery cap on the SX any way.
The heat sink is just a simple extension for the 510 and average of about 10MM thick. You could also just change the 510 if you are going to take the chip out.
That would be best case scenario, If I could find one that would fit.
With out looking to unnatural, I'm fussy about how my mods look.
I made 2 3D printed "Gala mods" with SX chips, there dual 18650, very well made prints & can hold up to a 30mm atty. Plus the chip was the most expensive part of the build.
Like I said it's not a total loss for me, But for others it could have relegated this mod to the trash heap
So it's a valid point for top fill atty's, 510 damage does happen.
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I was going to ask if you could just replace the 510 yourself, but from the sound of it, you're both capable and better off yanking our the chip and putting it in a good box with a quality 510 you made yourself. That's nice when you have access to a large enough 3D printer and know how to use it to make your own.
I don't have a 3D printer, you can get them reasonably priced today, but to make real good prints, you need an expensive one. I got the print from shapeways GALA Mod Front by Marici on Shapeways
all the parts for the whole mod from SW was only $35.44 USD
after that, a 510, a few battery terminals, a few magnets & some wire
here's what it looks like done Its on the right beside a boxer type mod.
I built also, its is dual 18650 DNA 200 @133 watts
GALA Mod Front by Marici on Shapewaysall the parts for the whole mod from SW was only $35.44 USD
after that, a 510, a few battery terminals, a few magnets & some wire
here's what it looks like done
Its on the right beside a boxer type mod.I built also, its is dual 18650 DNA 200 @133 watts
I started out on bottom fill and when top fill came out i thought it was the greatest thing since sliced bread top fill all the way!
I don't have a 3D printer, you can get them reasonably priced today, but to make real good prints, you need an expensive one. I got the print from shapeways
all the parts for the whole mod from SW was only $35.44 USD
after that, a 510, a few battery terminals, a few magnets & some wire
here's what it looks like done
I built also, its is dual 18650 DNA 200 @133 watts
Nice work! Those look great.
I can't stand bottom fill, every single tank I use is top fill. After getting a KF4 I never could go back to bottom fill.
Or you can preserve the mods 510 by using a heat sink from the start and just replace it when it wears out. Heat sinks are cheap and easy to replace.
Unless you like temp control. Heat sinks can cause resistance reading problems. So I simply prefer the leave it in place approach.
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