Total NooB Need HELP! MANY questions???

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Mrephunk

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Ok so I am totally new to the vaping scene and I have a few questions I haven't been able to find by searching. First what is the big deal with ohms and resistance? Can I not use any KR808 carto on any KR808 Batt? What does the ohm and resistance have to do with the VG or PG liquid? I was going to buy some e-liquid to refill the cartos with so is important I know the whole Ohm/resistance thing? Since I am new to this my plan was to get a couple different 808 batteries and carts and maybe try a 501. Would I be able to charge all the 808 batts on the same charger? And I know this is such a dumb question(Because it is asked all the time I'm sure) but what would a good beginner 501 cig be? I will only be getting one 501 so what should it be? Is it worth it to get a tank(or Cartomizer ) for an 808? which one is the easiest to use if so? I know these are probably some dumb questions but I have been on here searching and learning for a little over a week and I think I may be over saturated with info, because I don't know what to buy . Please help
 

Retriever

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I currently use KR808s and although the threading on the cartos and batteries are the same between mfgs, not all of my cartos are interchangeable, meaning on mfg. #1 battery I will not be able to use the carto from mfg #2 as it won't draw properly. I am still not certain as to why, but in my opinion, I would have at least a couple of batteries from each mfg. to go with their cartos. Seems to work best for me. With KR808s, you really don't have to worry about ohms as the cartos are made for that particular device. Having said that, the WOW cartos from Vapor 4 Life are a little lower resistance I believe. Hope that helps, and welcome to ECF! :)
 

Ladypixel

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I'm still puzzling through ohms/resistance myself, and finding out what it means in terms of my vaping experience.

But voltage, I can explain. The higher the voltage, the warmer the vapor, and the more quickly it heats up the carto/tank you're using. This changes the flavor of the juice you're vaping, sometimes subtly, sometimes dramatically. Too hot, and you might possibly get a 'burned' or caramelized flavor, or you might lose the sweetness. Too low, and you lose a lot of the richer, deeper tastes in the juice, because the vapor's simply too cool to highlight those flavors.

Also, the higher of a voltage you're running, the quicker you'll go through your battery charge, but since batteries can be recharged, this is a bit less of a concern. ;)
 

spaceballsrules

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I still would like to know what is the deal with Ohms and resistance and voltage. And not the math but what it actually means to a vaper

Lower ohms means a warmer vape. Higher ohms means a cooler vape.

The inverse is true for voltage. Higher voltage means a warmer vape, and lower voltage means a cooler vape.

It's all about Ohm's Law. I know you said you aren't worried about the math, but it IS important. The combination of the voltage of the battery and the resistance of the atty/carto dictates the overall wattage of the vape. The wattage is the magic number.

You can control and customize your personal vaping experience by measuring the overall wattage of your vape. A high voltage battery combined with a low resistance atty/carto will give you an extremely warm vapor and lots of vapor production, but it may taste burnt or harsh if you go too high. If you use a low voltage battery combined with a high resitance atty/carto, the vapor will be cooler, but the flavor may be muted and vapor production will be diminished if you go too low.

I use a battery that runs 3.6-4.1V (Riva 901) with cartos that are rated at about 2.7 ohms. This results in a vape that is 6 watts on a fresh charge, and dwindles to 5 watts as the battery life diminishes.

Use this calculator to determine what the wattage of your vape is.... Electrical & Electronics, Ohm's Law, Formulas & Equations
 

sailorman

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Ok so I am totally new to the vaping scene and I have a few questions I haven't been able to find by searching. First what is the big deal with ohms and resistance? Can I not use any KR808 carto on any KR808 Batt? What does the ohm and resistance have to do with the VG or PG liquid? I was going to buy some E-liquid to refill the cartos with so is important I know the whole Ohm/resistance thing? Since I am new to this my plan was to get a couple different 808 batteries and carts and maybe try a 501. Would I be able to charge all the 808 batts on the same charger? And I know this is such a dumb question(Because it is asked all the time I'm sure) but what would a good beginner 501 cig be? I will only be getting one 501 so what should it be? Is it worth it to get a tank(or Cartomizer ) for an 808? which one is the easiest to use if so? I know these are probably some dumb questions but I have been on here searching and learning for a little over a week and I think I may be over saturated with info, because I don't know what to buy . Please help


O.K., here goes: KR808D1's (808's) are generally compatible between devices and cartos. 808 and 510 refer to thread patterns. Some 808 parts have a slightly different design that may interfere with their use on an 808 battery by another manufacturer. This is a sleazy trick used by some ecig makers to force you to buy their product. I would drop them.

Devices, (batteries, atomizers, cartomizers, etc) with a 510 thread seem to be more often compatible with one another. An exception would be some of the 510 cartos designed for the eGo/Vgo/Riva/Kgo type batteries. These batteries have a cone on the end of them as well. There are adapters you can use to put a eGo type carto on an ecig with a standard 510 thread. There are also adapters that you can use to put an 808 carto on a 510 thread, as long as it is a standard type of 808 carto. IMO, if you want maximum interchangeability and the widest variety of cartomizers, tanks, attys, etc., get a battery or mod with a 510 connector and perhaps a 510/808 adapter for standard non-proprietary 808 cartos, which are not bad.

The thing with Ohms (resistance) and Volts is that they combine to create power (watts). The higher the watts, the hotter the coil gets and the warmer the vapor is. Of course, the faster your battery drains and the faster your atty or carto wears out.

Most people like to vape with between 6 and 10 watts. Some hotheads like up to 12 watts. Attys and cartos are rated by their resistance. A "standard" atty or carto is about 2.5ohms to 3.1 ohms. A "low resistance" atty is generally considered to be 2.0 ohms or less, down to about 1.25ohms. There are "high resistance" attys too, up to 4 or 4.5ohms.

The formula for power is Vots X Volts (battery voltage squared) divided by the resistance of your atty in ohms = Watts.
For example, if your battery is putting out 3.7V to a 2.5ohm atty, you have 3.7 x 3.7 / 2.5= 5.48 Watts. When a 3.7V battery is fresh off a charger, it's 4.2 volts. 4.2 x 4.2 / 2.5 = 7.06Watts. So, you can see that as the battery voltage drops with use, the power (watts) goes down. By the time it reaches 3.7 Volts, the vapor is getting a bit weak.

You can either increase the voltage by using a 5V passthrough, stacking two 3V batteries for 6V, or using a variable voltage PV. Or, you can use a lower resistance atty. If you are using a 1.5ohm atty and your battery has gotten to 3.7V, then the formula is 3.7 x 3.7 / 1.5 = 9.12 Watts. That's much better than the 5.48 watts you got from a 2.5ohm atty and you didn't have to increase the voltage at all.

That's the relationship between voltage, ohms and watts. You can plug different values in to achieve the power that tastes best to you for the juice you use. Some juice tastes better at lower power, some at higher power. High voltage can make some juice taste burnt. Some juice comes alive at high voltage. High voltage creates more vapor, but it also burns up more juice. It's a balancing act.

VG and PG don't have too much to do with the power you vape at. VG produces more vapor, PG gives more throat hit. You can get some of the throat hit back with high VG juice by increasing your power.

Remember though, Low resistance attys put a lot of strain on your battery. You shouldn't use LR attys with a battery less than 450mah. Too much voltage in a LR atty will burn it out, sometimes instantly. To little voltage in a high resistance atty will produce little or no vapor. For a standard 3.7V battery, 2-2.5ohms is a good starting point.

A good beginner 510 is an E-Power. It has replaceable, non-proprietary batteries and you can get repair parts. Another good one is a kGo. Neither of these looks like a cigarette, but they don't look like a pipe bomb either. They're about the size of a Sharpie pen. You can use any carto or atty with a 510 connector on them, or you can use most 808 cartos with a 510/808 adapter.

Hope that wasn't too confusing and cleared up some questions for you.
 

sailorman

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I still would like to know what is the deal with Ohms and resistance and voltage. And not the math but what it actually means to a vaper

Sorry, I missed this post. You have to learn the math or it doesn't mean anything. You can look up Ohms law and see all the different formulas, but you don't need that at this point.

All you need is one simple calculation that any 5th grader can do. And you need to understand that more watts equals a warmer vape. And one more thing, for most juice, you want from 6 to 10 watts. That's it.

The formula is: Voltage X Voltage divided by Ohms equals Watts. That's all there is to it. The voltage is your battery's voltage. For most batteries, it starts out at 4.2 and drops from there, down to about 3.5. You can use an average of 3.7 to estimate. Some ecigs keep the voltage steady throughout, usually at 3.5V. The ohms is given for every carto or atty you get.

Plug them in the formula and if the result is between 6 and 10, you're golden.
 
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hairball

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Most people like to vape with between 6 and 10 watts. Some hotheads like up to 12 watts.

I love this statement...hotheads are only 12 watts? I vape 22.5 watts. I guess that makes me a demon vapor. :evil:

If you're main concern is strictly getting a good vape and having a bunch of options, the best suggestion I can give you is to get a variable voltage mod and some regular resistance Boge 3ohm cartomizers...and a tank also if you want to try it out. There are a lot of good PV's out there and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to use a VV mod. Skip all of the proprietary stuff and get something that you will probably get in the future, now, and save yourself the expense of trying to find that perfect vape. The perfect vape will be in the hardware...variable voltage will allow you to adjust/fine tune your juice in to your preferred taste.
 
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rse1

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Hi Mrephunk, welcome to the ECF.
The previous posts answered most of your questions, except can you get a tank with 808 threading. Yes, I have several from Vapor4Life that I got for my 808 batteries. I found I had to swap out the really low resistance dual-coil carto (1.5 ohms) for a slightly higher resistance carto (2.0 ohms) to allow the little battery to live a longer life.

One point no one has mentioned yet is that you don't have to switch to 510 threading to get a bigger battery. There is an 808 threaded battery with 1300 mah - the echo. I started with 808s but have been using mostly manual 510s lately. I picked up a couple of echos from cropduster901 and found it comforting to go back to an auto without having to change batteries every hour. I also got to use up some of my old 808 threaded cartos. The batteries have a big enough capacity I could use the LR atomizers if I wanted to, but I find the 2.4 ohm cartos (V4L Wow) warm enough for me. The V4L cool carts at the higher resistance are a bit cool for me. I suppose I could set up an 808 tank if I wanted but the whole point for me was to simplify my vaping and get away from all the fiddling for awhile. One point to note is that you have to use a different USB charger with the echo (theirs) since the echo doesn't fit into the normal 808 charger (its too big) and the echo wants a higher voltage (according to the manufacturer).

I think you'll end up getting some 510 compatible stuff eventually but just thought I'd point out another alternative.

Many would argue that the e-power 14650 is probably the best 510 compatible if you're going to get just one. The unit is considerably smaller than the 18650-based ones and the replaceable batteries ($3 - $15) are considerably cheaper than replacing the complete battery/tube/switch ($20) when the battery stops taking a charge and you can choose the battery type for yourself (IMR/protected ICR and select the desired mah).
 

sailorman

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I love this statement...hotheads are only 12 watts? I vape 22.5 watts. I guess that makes me a demon vapor. :evil:.....

I really should have said 12 watts or more.

But Good Lord, what are you vaping? 7.4V with a 2.5 ohm atty?

Got the John Deere Tractor Battery Mod?

I've done up to 18W and nearly choked to death.
 
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hairball

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I really should have said 12 watts or more.

But Good Lord, what are you vaping? 7.4V with a 2.5 ohm atty?

Got the John Deere Tractor Battery Mod?

I've done up to 18W and nearly choked to death.

1.6ohm dcc at 6V. As for a John Deere Tractor mod...don't need one as I already have one that does a darn good job of coming close to that....a Krescendo. Runs at 6.1V top end with dual atty/carto connections...run 2 dcc's at 6.1V. I had to lower my nic on this mod...made myself a little queezy at times.
 
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KeithB

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This link FAQ: What are these HV and LR attys? Do I need them? Are they safe to use? | Vaping Guides to the Electronic Cigarette was the one that got me to understand the whole ohms,volt,watts, amps thing. A good vape is all about the wattage and controlling your voltage and the resistance of your atty/carto is what determines your wattage. I was a hothead vaper, 12.5 watts (LR Boge cartos at 5V) but have been backing down lately.

I don't know a whole lot about the kr808 equipment, but for 510 threaded stuff i would say No, you can't use anything on any battery. The 510 mini batteries don't have enough power to run anything LR. I won't go below 2 ohms on an eGo for fear of overloading the circuitry in them. Some people do use 1.5 ohm attys/cartos successfully; some destroy their batteries that way.
 

xhaler

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Sailorman...you have finally helped me to understand this!! I have tried following all the advice provided to various people on the board, just hoping it would eventually register. Ta da!!! You made it understandable! Thank you!!!

Sorry, I missed this post. You have to learn the math or it doesn't mean anything. You can look up Ohms law and see all the different formulas, but you don't need that at this point.

All you need is one simple calculation that any 5th grader can do. And you need to understand that more watts equals a warmer vape. And one more thing, for most juice, you want from 6 to 10 watts. That's it.

The formula is: Voltage X Voltage divided by Ohms equals Watts. That's all there is to it. The voltage is your battery's voltage. For most batteries, it starts out at 4.2 and drops from there, down to about 3.5. You can use an average of 3.7 to estimate. Some ecigs keep the voltage steady throughout, usually at 3.5V. The ohms is given for every carto or atty you get.

Plug them in the formula and if the result is between 6 and 10, you're golden.
 

McDougal

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Ok so I am totally new to the vaping scene and I have a few questions I haven't been able to find by searching. First what is the big deal with ohms and resistance? Can I not use any KR808 carto on any KR808 Batt? What does the ohm and resistance have to do with the VG or PG liquid? I was going to buy some E-liquid to refill the cartos with so is important I know the whole Ohm/resistance thing? Since I am new to this my plan was to get a couple different 808 batteries and carts and maybe try a 501. Would I be able to charge all the 808 batts on the same charger? And I know this is such a dumb question(Because it is asked all the time I'm sure) but what would a good beginner 501 cig be? I will only be getting one 501 so what should it be? Is it worth it to get a tank(or Cartomizer ) for an 808? which one is the easiest to use if so? I know these are probably some dumb questions but I have been on here searching and learning for a little over a week and I think I may be over saturated with info, because I don't know what to buy . Please help

I know some say that any resistance is ok with 808s, but that is entirely not true. Low ohms, especially less than 2.0 can fry a KR808. Low ohms are best generally when using a batt that is larger than most cig type models.
 

McDougal

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Awesome response guy thanks. I ordered a Volt starter from Smokeless Image haven't even gotten it yet and now I'm regretting it. I am looking at the Ego-T setups, I wanted to know do I have an option to use a cartomizer(Cart with atty built in) and if so which ones are recomended

Smokeless image is a good product, but they do also have big batts in 650, 900 and 1300 mah, all 808, with passthrough and charger.
 

sailorman

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....I don't know a whole lot about the kr808 equipment, but for 510 threaded stuff i would say No, you can't use anything on any battery. The 510 mini batteries don't have enough power to run anything LR. I won't go below 2 ohms on an eGo for fear of overloading the circuitry in them. Some people do use 1.5 ohm attys/cartos successfully; some destroy their batteries that way.
Obviously, not all 510 or 808 or any other style devices are compatible if their electrical characteristics differ or you are attempting to violate physical laws. That wasn't really the issue. It was about fit. It was made clear by a few posters that a LR atty shouldn't be used on a little battery. The problem with the eGo and LR attys is limited to the smallest unit, 650mah. If that PV had a normal circuit instead of being a Mosfet device, or if it had a significantly larger battery, it would be fine with at LR, but from what I have gathered, the problems are most likely with the circuitry. Regardless, the issue of using a LR device on an undersized batt isn't limited to any particular thread style or pattern.

Some people have had no problem at all, despite that circuit. I have a suspicion the ones that have are using an eGo whose battery is old and has lost a fair amount of its capacity. Either way, the problem seems to be restricted to the 650mah eGos and it's got nothing to do with whether it's a 510 or 808 or 901.

There is no such thing as 100% compatibility with everything. But if you stick to non-proprietary 510 devices, you will have the maximum interchangeability and the largest variety of options.
 
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sailorman

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I know some say that any resistance is ok with 808s, but that is entirely not true. Low ohms, especially less than 2.0 can fry a KR808. Low ohms are best generally when using a batt that is larger than most cig type models.

Just another reason to avoid those silly analog lookalikes. Don't use a LR atty with a battery less than 450mah. Don't use a Very LR, like 1.5 or 1.2, with less than 600mah. I've never seen a cigarette clone PV with a battery that large. There might be a 510 stick that barely qualifies, but that's about it.

Just avoid ciggy PV's and you can use what you want.
 

sailorman

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Awesome response guy thanks. I ordered a Volt starter from Smokeless Image haven't even gotten it yet and now I'm regretting it. I am looking at the Ego-T setups, I wanted to know do I have an option to use a cartomizer(Cart with atty built in) and if so which ones are recomended

AFAIK, you can use other tanks on the eGo-T. They're just set up to use their own little special tanks. Again, the cone is a factor. For general use, Boge cartos are excellent, especially for newbies. They can be used with the eGo cone in place. They're forgiving, inexpensive and durable. 2 or 3ohms should do you fine.

For a fillerless carto, other eGo style vapers have been raving about the Stardust, which is a clearomizer type carto specially designed for the eGo type PVs. I'm tempted to get one myself and use an adapter on my 510 devices. The Stardust has a skirted connector, to fit around the connector on the eGos, probably to protect the unsealed batteries from damage due to leakage. But the skirt stops it from fitting all the way down in the recessed battery connector of a normal 510 PV, so an adapter/extender is needed. Ego cartos are the rare case of not all 510 things fitting each other "out of the box", but it's easy enough to use adapters to make eGo stuff fit any 510 PV.
 
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McDougal

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Just another reason to avoid those silly analog lookalikes. Don't use a LR atty with a battery less than 450mah. Don't use a Very LR, like 1.5 or 1.2, with less than 600mah. I've never seen a cigarette clone PV with a battery that large. There might be a 510 stick that barely qualifies, but that's about it.

Just avoid ciggy PV's and you can use what you want.

Agreed on the specs.

Although, the cig types do come in handy as a backup or for something extremely portable. Really depends on user's preference. That being said, a 2.5 ohm carto hits great on an unregulated KR808 fresh off the charge, and does well. But, it'll always be on the charger if you're a heavy to moderate vaper.
 
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