I've been vaping on Joye 510's since last summer. For the last few months I've been having some really frustrating experiences with a lack of connection between my batteries and atomizers.
I'd be out-and-about, vaping away, and would get the blinking light that meant it was time to change batteries. Screw a freshly-charged batt onto my atty, hit the button, inhale, and get nothing. The LED would light up, but the atty would act like it wasn't plugged into anything.
What made this particularly frustrating was that it seemed to be totally arbitrary. The batts would work with some attys and not others, and all of my attys worked fine with my USB passthrough. And as time went on, it became more and more of a problem, with fewer and fewer of my batts (even those just a few weeks old) refusing to work with fewer and fewer attys (even brand-new ones).
Anyways, after banging my head against the problem trying a bunch of different things to figure out what the issue was, I think I've got it, and figured I'd share my findings with you guys.
A few months ago I got a 5-battery charger from Totally Wicked e-liquid. Pretty sure it's the culprit. Here's why: the original single-battery charger that came with my starter set has a spring-loaded center contact that lightly presses against the center contact of the battery. The multi-charger, however, has solid metal nubs that don't seem to move at all, not unlike the end of an atomizer.
What I hadn't realized until recently is that the center contact of a 510 battery slides in-and-out of the battery housing (presumably backed by a spring?) to meet the center contact of the atomizer. I'm fairly certain that the multi-charger's contacts are a bit too long. Screwing the batts all the way into the charger pushes that center contact back towards the body of the battery, where it can get stuck, just out of reach of an atomizer's center contact.
I've found that getting a little screwdriver in there and gently rocking the center contact back and forth can get it to come out enough to interface with the atomizer again. Also, I'm making sure to only screw the batts into the charger just far enough to make contact (turning the LED red), instead of cranking them all the way down.
I'd be out-and-about, vaping away, and would get the blinking light that meant it was time to change batteries. Screw a freshly-charged batt onto my atty, hit the button, inhale, and get nothing. The LED would light up, but the atty would act like it wasn't plugged into anything.
What made this particularly frustrating was that it seemed to be totally arbitrary. The batts would work with some attys and not others, and all of my attys worked fine with my USB passthrough. And as time went on, it became more and more of a problem, with fewer and fewer of my batts (even those just a few weeks old) refusing to work with fewer and fewer attys (even brand-new ones).
Anyways, after banging my head against the problem trying a bunch of different things to figure out what the issue was, I think I've got it, and figured I'd share my findings with you guys.
A few months ago I got a 5-battery charger from Totally Wicked e-liquid. Pretty sure it's the culprit. Here's why: the original single-battery charger that came with my starter set has a spring-loaded center contact that lightly presses against the center contact of the battery. The multi-charger, however, has solid metal nubs that don't seem to move at all, not unlike the end of an atomizer.
What I hadn't realized until recently is that the center contact of a 510 battery slides in-and-out of the battery housing (presumably backed by a spring?) to meet the center contact of the atomizer. I'm fairly certain that the multi-charger's contacts are a bit too long. Screwing the batts all the way into the charger pushes that center contact back towards the body of the battery, where it can get stuck, just out of reach of an atomizer's center contact.
I've found that getting a little screwdriver in there and gently rocking the center contact back and forth can get it to come out enough to interface with the atomizer again. Also, I'm making sure to only screw the batts into the charger just far enough to make contact (turning the LED red), instead of cranking them all the way down.
