Transition From Mech Mod to a Box Mod

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mcmanumi

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Mar 25, 2015
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Eliot, ME USA
Hello all, hoping to get some insight on transitioning from a Mech mod to a Box mod. I've been vaping for 5-months now and my current setup is as follows:
  • AmeraVape Apollo (brass)
  • Flawless Tug Boat V2 with Tugboat's Slam Cap
  • Dual 6-wrap 22ga kanthal (Hotwires by Chadster) -5/32" (usually runs ~.14ohms)
  • Cotton Bacon wick
  • Usually vape Alpha Vape juices
I love the mod, but am hearing so much about Box Mods that it's making me want to give it a try. For me, the disadvantages of using a Mech Bod with a RDA are:
  • Battery life, since I like to sub ohm
  • How often I have to drip, especially since I spend a lot of time behind the wheel
  • Dry hits
For me, I get the most satisfaction from a mildly hot vape with LOTS of flavor-I really don't care about cloud production... I do get the temperature and flavor with my current setup, but the constant dripping and about 3-battery change outs a day is getting pretty tiring. I know that if I switch to a tank setup, that would solve the dripping issue, but then I'm left with the battery. Here's what attracts me to the Mech Mods:
  • Option to go with dual 18650's, thus alleviating the battery problem
  • Variable voltage & wattage
  • Temp. control that a DNA 40 offers when using Nickel
So, it looks like I've made up my mind to take the plung, but I'm plagued by two major questions:


  1. What kind of Box Mod should I go with?
  2. If I switch to a tank atomizer, what kind should I get and how do I build it to get that warm flavorful hit I get from my RDA?
I've done some research and like the Hana V4d DNA 40 and the VaporShark rDNA 40. Although the VaporShark only has the one battery, I like the fact it has the larger oLED display and the Zip high speed charging. I'm looking for any advice, insight, and general thoughts... THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!
 

Susan~S

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Mar 12, 2014
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Hello and welcome to the forum mcmanubi. Glad to have you here!:)

The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. This increases both heat and vapor production.

With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.

Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...

Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features
 

Foggyroomz

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Nov 14, 2014
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Indiana
As far as a box I own the Sigelei 150 watt and it kicks .... reads and fires .1 ohm dual 18650 Sony's VTC5'S great device. Tanks go with a UD GOBLIN it builds like a plume veil deck but in a tank has excellent airflow adjustability and flavor for days. The Artic tank is good but .2 or .5 ohm coils can get expensive that's why I say Youde (UD) Goblin tank you can build it until you find the sweet spot and use the same supplies you have been using on your dripper's.
 

jifjifjif

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Mar 11, 2011
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Very simple answer from someone who has owned about 30 mods. REO Grand. Bottom feeder. no need to drip since you drive a lot.

Check out reosmods.com

mechanical, rugged, bottom feeder. Put a rebuildable bottom-fed atty on top (available at the same site) and you are good to go. Just trust me. Then, come over to the REO forum to thank me. :)

The mod maker lives in Alfred, 25 miles south of you.
 
I'm using a Hana Dna40 with a Lemo as my RTA. This combo is a flavour machine! If you want to blow some clouds you can open the AFC wide open and get some pretty good production for a tank.

Then there's always the option of a clearomizer/RTA combo like the subtank or Atlantis. But if you're already experienced in building coils I'd say go for a straight up RTA.
 

Foggyroomz

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Susan I disagree with you pertaining to having to build sub ohm with high watt box here's why my sigelei 150 watt has 7.5 volt limit a 1.0 ohm coil will only go to 56 watts and is maxed because the voltage won't exceed 7.5 volts so to use 150 watts on my device I have to build low resistance plus you still have to keep the amps within spec too. So I beg to differ with your statement about high power chips compensating the need for subohm building.
 

Susan~S

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Susan I disagree with you pertaining to having to build sub ohm with high watt box here's why my sigelei 150 watt has 7.5 volt limit a 1.0 ohm coil will only go to 56 watts and is maxed because the voltage won't exceed 7.5 volts so to use 150 watts on my device I have to build low resistance plus you still have to keep the amps within spec too. So I beg to differ with your statement about high power chips compensating the need for subohm building.

You misread my post. I didn't say sub-ohm. I said LOW sum ohm.

The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape.
 

Foggyroomz

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Nov 14, 2014
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Susan I wasn't trying to be rude so if I came off that way I apologize but I was simply trying to explain that there are still parameters of the chip that require very low builds in order to achieve the high wattage levels that's all, I didn't want a misconception that a box will run a 1.6 ohm coil at 145 watts or something.
 
Mcmanumi what ohm range do you generally build your mechanical mod dripper's at you say you like warm to hot vape? That will determine the level of box you will want to look into and what style atomizer may best be suited for you.

I usually do a dual 22ga coil (5/32"), 6 wrap, with Hot Wires kanthal - this gets me at .14ohms.
 
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