Triton VV Battery Build Quality; or, What Am I Doing Wrong?

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Hey Tritoneers,

I just had my second Triton VV Battery break on me (in as many months). In both cases the battery just separated into two pieces (the casing and the metal enclosure/screw base at the top). I take good care of them, and carry them in a case or carpenter's side pocket whenever possible, or alone in a pocket -- I don't want to scratch the beautiful finishes.

I definitely recognize that the point where the chrome attaches to the colored finish is the weak point; apply any real pressure there and you're gonna have problems. Knowing that, I avoid said pressure. And yet! The breakage!

Is anyone else having trouble with this separation issue? Does anyone have any idea how to prevent it from happening again? As much as I love Halo packages in the mail, these unexpected $30 charges do, unfortunately, add up.

If it's just me, however, I'd love to know that too. Thanks much!
 

AngiBe

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Hey Tritoneers,

I just had my second Triton VV Battery break on me (in as many months). In both cases the battery just separated into two pieces (the casing and the metal enclosure/screw base at the top). I take good care of them, and carry them in a case or carpenter's side pocket whenever possible, or alone in a pocket -- I don't want to scratch the beautiful finishes.

I definitely recognize that the point where the chrome attaches to the colored finish is the weak point; apply any real pressure there and you're gonna have problems. Knowing that, I avoid said pressure. And yet! The breakage!

Is anyone else having trouble with this separation issue? Does anyone have any idea how to prevent it from happening again? As much as I love Halo packages in the mail, these unexpected $30 charges do, unfortunately, add up.

If it's just me, however, I'd love to know that too. Thanks much!


Very unfortunate indeed. First, I'd send Cinder a PM and explain the situation to see if she can check into it for you. I have 3 VVs, one going on 9 months without issues.

Well, take that back, one of my VVs I dropped on the floor and I couldn't get the silver dial to turn. I took a pair of pliers and gently twisted and it's good as new except for the matte finish kinda lifted a bit. But, I only tell you this cuz even doing this, my silver dial stayed on the batt and didn't separate.
 

GreenLeaf

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Welcome, marlowe.

Is it the iridescence, or rubberized? The former is more prone to scratches.

I have never heard of the battery separating like that. I have dropped my VV several times, and tote it around loose in my pocket. Still working perfectly after 6 hard months of use.

Did it break while the tank was on it? Are you over tightening the tank? It should be snug and no more.

Has it been sat on? If you put pressure on the side of a tank the energy will transfer to the weakest link. I always assumed this would bend the threads, or break at one of the seams like yours did.

Can you post a picture?
 
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DaveOno

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Halo warranty is 60 days.

I have 2 VV since December, 2 regular 650mah bats since October, and all doing well, albeit getting shorted discharge times on the VVs.

In fact, I have a dead VV someone sent me (Manuel). It took a pair of vicegrips and some good force to get the top off. I pressed it back together, and it again took the vicegrips to separate them.

The case is metal, as is the top. The top has 1/8th inch of reeding (like the edge of a quarter). This fit is very tight. I imagine it is the same in the regular Triton batteries.

Just wondering, have you broken any tips?

As Greenleaf did, I question also, how tight are you turning the tank. At any time you should be able to loosen the tank with one hand. If not, it's too tight. When tightening, as soon as it "stops", then stop. Yes, it could be tightened a lot more, but the grommets get overly compressed.

Either the tops are separating from the battery shell by twisting or by lateral force. Meaning you are bending it in the middle.

You say breaking. Did the case split? And if it's just loose, but still electrically functioning, I suggest getting some J-B Weld from your auto parts store. I've used that stuff with amazing results. Mix up a small amount, put it SPARINGLY on the inside case and a little on the reeding. Join it up and wipe any ooze away, cause it's gonna be permanent!

Good luck.
 
Welcome, marlowe.

Is it the iridescence, or rubberized? The former is more prone to scratches.

I have never heard of the battery separating like that. I have dropped my VV several times, and tote it around loose in my pocket. Still working perfectly after 6 hard months of use.

Did it break while the tank was on it? Are you over tightening the tank? It should be snug and no more.

Has it been sat on? If you put pressure on the side of a tank the energy will transfer to the weakest link. I always assumed this would bend the threads, or break at one of the seams like yours did.

Can you post a picture?


The most recent one was a Rubberized Pink, and the previous one, a Rubberized Blue (I haven't had a chance to complete my collection with the Iridescence. Yet.). Glad to hear I'm not the only one doing the pocket-tote. I don't force or tighten in a crazy fashion, I believe, though I'll definitely pay attention from now on -- particularly since that seems to be the one possible factor in my case(s).

As for pictures: here you are! This is the Pink one, I can take pictures of the blue one at home if necessary.

20140505_164557.jpg

20140505_164542.jpg

20140505_164612.jpg

The casing didn't break, and I have not sat on it (very careful to keep it from slipping UNDER the leg rather than beside it). I would have just slipped it back into the casing, except that the circuit is broken -- so no dice there.

Also, PMing CinderElla is a great idea -- I'll do that as soon as I get a chance but I've about used up my foruming-at-work time for the moment, at the moment.

Thanks for the responses and advice so far -- I really appreciate it.
 

GreenLeaf

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Thanks for the pics. Interesting.

What were you doing at the time that caused the break? It takes a decent amount of pressure to break a circuit board.

I would send a pm her way, though they might consider this misuse/improper handling and not a manufacturers defect. But it's worth a try.

Also, those threads are really grimy. On your new one, try isopropyl alcohol on a napkin and twist them clean.
 

FallenRawToast

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yeah i have looked at this repeatedly... the only way i can see this happening is if a lot of lateral pressure is applied to the tank when it is screwed on to the batt...


...and with your description of how you carry it in pockets... i can see the top of the pocket maybe grabbing the top of the tank when you move around, and eventually popping the connection out..

Not to say you may not of just "lucked" out and gotten two units that were defective.

That said, I dont carry these in my pants pockets, because i snapped off a drip tip in the first week. Shirt breast pockets are the only pocket I will carry these in.
 
Agreed on the pocket carry/turning being my likely issue -- I've found shirt pocket or carpenter pocket to be ideal, so I do that unless I'm wearing actual classy pants. Classy pants being those pants lacking a hammer loop.

It's good to know I'm relatively alone on this issue -- that means I'm the idiot, not the build quality. Myself, I can fix.

What were you doing at the time that caused the break? It takes a decent amount of pressure to break a circuit board.

I should have been more clear -- the circuit board did NOT break, just the red wire came loose AFTER the circuit board was out and I was attempting to reset it in place. I have plans to try and resolder the wire on the weekend (assuming all replacement options are exhausted). We shall see how many things get burned down in the process.

Lastly: yes, I am properly shamed for my grimy threads. In my defense, it's been one of those 24/7 work months. Also, paper towels and test tube brushes are my de-gunkers of choice -- if any one has a better tool for the job, I would love to hear that as well.

Thanks again guys -- every time I think I know what I'm doing, I start a thread on this forum and feel like Socrates all over again.

FOR REFERENCE (by the way): the reason I was wondering about build quality at all in the first place was that my most recently ordered VV battery (a blue one) seems to have different threading than the older ones. But oddly so -- 80% of my tanks screw on without trouble, 10% screw on with some grit to it, and 10% don't ever tighten or just don't screw on to it at all. VERY confusing. I sent it back and I believe they checked it out, deemed it good, and sent it back as I still have that weird grit/no tightening issue. I figured since the vast majority of everything works, I'd just you know, not use my yellow tanks on my blue VV? Problem solved. Just in case anyone was experiencing a similar conundrum.
 
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GreenLeaf

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FOR REFERENCE (by the way): the reason I was wondering about build quality at all in the first place was that my most recently ordered VV battery (a blue one) seems to have different threading than the older ones. But oddly so -- 80% of my tanks screw on without trouble, 10% screw on with some grit to it, and 10% don't ever tighten or just don't screw on to it at all. VERY confusing. I sent it back and I believe they checked it out, deemed it good, and sent it back as I still have that weird grit/no tightening issue. I figured since the vast majority of everything works, I'd just you know, not use my yellow tanks on my blue VV? Problem solved. Just in case anyone was experiencing a similar conundrum.

Halo does outsource and/or use different vendors for some of their hardware, as there is a list of subtle variances in the tank builds and design, though they should all be equally functional. I have wondered if the same is true for batteries and chargers. Just something to consider.
 

FallenRawToast

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Lastly: yes, I am properly shamed for my grimy threads. In my defense, it's been one of those 24/7 work months. Also, paper towels and test tube brushes are my de-gunkers of choice -- if any one has a better tool for the job, I would love to hear that as well.

Q-tips with rubbing alcohol and then a tiny bit of cotton ball pushed around in the battery post with a toothpick to get your scrub n dry on, once a week or so, helps a lot.

One cause of the shorted battery issue, semi-dried out juice in the connector head of the battery.
 

chesty

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I fell asleep one night with my triton, I swear nothing happened, we just slept in the same bed, but when I woke up, I was lying on top of the triton and the top had separated just like your pictures. I was able to press it back on as the wires didn't break. I mean if you wanted to separate the top connector from the tube, it would take a lot of force.

I guess what I;m saying is even though tritons are battery operated, you shouldn't sleep with them.
 

CafeDigitalDiva

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I fell asleep one night with my triton, I swear nothing happened, we just slept in the same bed, but when I woke up, I was lying on top of the triton and the top had separated just like your pictures. I was able to press it back on as the wires didn't break. I mean if you wanted to separate the top connector from the tube, it would take a lot of force.

I guess what I;m saying is even though tritons are battery operated, you shouldn't sleep with them.

Hiya chesty! Wise words and good advice. I'll have to remember this!:blush:
 

DaveOno

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I should have been more clear -- the circuit board did NOT break, just the red wire came loose AFTER the circuit board was out and I was attempting to reset it in place. I have plans to try and resolder the wire on the weekend (assuming all replacement options are exhausted). We shall see how many things get burned down in the process.

Lastly: yes, I am properly shamed for my grimy threads. In my defense, it's been one of those 24/7 work months. Also, paper towels and test tube brushes are my de-gunkers of choice -- if any one has a better tool for the job, I would love to hear that as well.

Thanks again guys -- every time I think I know what I'm doing, I start a thread on this forum and feel like Socrates all over again.

FOR REFERENCE (by the way): the reason I was wondering about build quality at all in the first place was that my most recently ordered VV battery (a blue one) seems to have different threading than the older ones. But oddly so -- 80% of my tanks screw on without trouble, 10% screw on with some grit to it, and 10% don't ever tighten or just don't screw on to it at all. VERY confusing. I sent it back and I believe they checked it out, deemed it good, and sent it back as I still have that weird grit/no tightening issue. I figured since the vast majority of everything works, I'd just you know, not use my yellow tanks on my blue VV? Problem solved. Just in case anyone was experiencing a similar conundrum.

(You still haven't told us how it broke; what were you doing?)

I have autopsy pics if anyone want's to see the gory details...

Actually, Marlowe, if you need to see what wire goes where. "Manuel" was drowned, but mechanically was fine. Perhaps he did not die in vain...



Them's very thin wires! Hope your soldering skills are good.
 
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GreenLeaf

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(You still haven't told us how it broke; what were you doing?)

I have autopsy pics if anyone want's to see the gory details...

Actually, Marlowe, if you need to see what wire goes where. "Manuel" was drowned, but mechanically was fine. Perhaps he did not die in vain...



Them's very thin wires! Hope your soldering skills are good.

Dave, that was my request about wanting to see the gory autopsy. :)

Not that I plan on tearing into one, but I enjoy seeing the bits and pieces.
 
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