So I've noticed with my new timekeeper that the button contact is arcing quite bad. And I don't think it's the build on it because I'll use the same battery and rda on my jux mod and the arcing is not nearly as bad. I mean I know that the build resistance being low has exasperated the arcing build up but it's really bad in my timekeeper. Also if I switch the battery to where the positive side is the part that makes contact with the switch the arcing is less extreme so that's what I have resorted too, plus the vent holes are in the switch so I figure that's better anyways. But still I don't know why that particular mod is arcing so badly when my other mods don't nearly as bad almost unnoticeable in the other mods. Anyways I was going to get some deoxit or noalox but do I apply it to just the contact of the rda or to both contacts?
Trying to fix arcing.
- Thread starter Smellybelly
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
All contacts are clean, all threads have been deburred? I might sand down the negative contact to ensure positive contact with the battery. DeoxIT on both contact faces, NO-OX-ID on all threads. Or NO-OX-ID on both contact faces and all threads.
Yeah the threads are perfect. Best machining I have ever seen, not just on a mech mod but pretty much period. Is no-ox-id different than deoxit in that you would only put deoxit on the contacts and not the threads
DeoxIT Gold G-Series is far less viscous than NO-OX-ID. Thus its ability to coat and protect components over time diminishes much more rapidly. Hence, the superior ability of NO-OX-ID to control arcing versus DeoxIT. I have also had good results with NyoGel 756G/758G pastes (760G pictured below).
Last edited:
I'm with sig-cmt on this one.
If it is the actual contact surfaces themselves and they have become pitted you can clean them up with some 1600 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat piece of glass, using even pressure and rotating the contact periodically to ensure it stays completely level.
Other than doping the contact to prevent ablation you can look into getting the contact rhodium plated at a local jewelry repair shop that specializes in white gold repair/maintenance.
If it is the actual contact surfaces themselves and they have become pitted you can clean them up with some 1600 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat piece of glass, using even pressure and rotating the contact periodically to ensure it stays completely level.
Other than doping the contact to prevent ablation you can look into getting the contact rhodium plated at a local jewelry repair shop that specializes in white gold repair/maintenance.
Plating won't improve conductivity.
That's not why we plate contacts.
Plating with rhodium, for example, will slow oxidation and keep the contacts cleaner.
You can wipe rhodium plated contacts clean with a soft cloth.
I don't know. It's a brass mod and my copper jux with the same build and rda hasn't had any problems yet. Also if I reverse the battery to where the positive end is contacting the switch then the arcing is not nearly as bad and really almost unnoticeable.
I know nothing or less about mechs & that sounded wrong to me too!
I didn't say anything about improving conductivity.
I mentioned it as a possible measure to take for reducing the wear on a contact, which is the exact same reason many mods have rhodium plated contacts.
Seeing as I didn't get an answer from the OP.
If the wrap on the battery is damaged it may make contact with the inside of the tube completing the circuit.
If the battery is positive up then this will result in an autofire, in effect bypassing the switch. Though not great, this is potentially manageable.
If the battery is inverted then a hard short is created, the battery swiftly goes into thermal runaway and ugliness ensues. Which as anyone who has experienced it will contest to, is not fun.
Yes I am aware of the safety issues. I always inspect my battery wraps and if there is any damage I immediately rewrap it. Also as the vent holes are on the bottom of the mod this makes more sense so that if the battery were to vent the gasses would travel less till it reached atmosphere. Sorry I didn't reply earlier I was busy draining and cleaning a pool. What I don't understand is why in the time keeper mod is there a noticeable difference in performance when the battery is inverted. When installed normal (positive side up) the performance is weaker than when it is inverted. I also let other people try it to make sure it wasn't just in my head and they agreed with me.
Ok cool, I was just checking.
Why were you cleaning a pool, you should have been cleaning your mech
The only reason for this that I can think of is that outer body of the mod provides a better electrical path than the 510 pin. Which I agree is very strange.
Why were you cleaning a pool, you should have been cleaning your mech
The only reason for this that I can think of is that outer body of the mod provides a better electrical path than the 510 pin. Which I agree is very strange.
Pool was very very very green. It's starting to get nice her in orlando so we wanted to use it. 510 center pin is copper, actually all contacts are copper and body is brass. Rda is a stainless kennedy 24. There's also little to no noticeable arcing when battery is placed positive side down. I clean the timekeeper contacts everyday. I have to especially if I am using it with the positive side of the battery in the normal position
I rewrap all my cells before actual use. The 0.08mm PVC wraps from RTD Vapor are great. The 0.08mm PVC wraps from FastTech are even better as they are cut more generously. Both options are marked improvements over the noticeably thinner (less abrasion resistant) PET wraps used by Sony/LG/Samsung. Representing Raider Nation...
Last edited:
Be aware that the wraps offered by BattWrap and IMRBatteries are 0.6mm in thickness. No good!
BTW, if you are wary of sanding your contacts with sandpaper, you can also choose to use a sand eraser.
Last edited:
Personally I never have much luck with the eraser approach, atleast not on e.g. my smpl which pits really bad with low builds, and so use high-grit sandpaper... I don't use any products though, as of yet, but really hoping such will make a difference...
Are you sure you tried a sand eraser composed of thermoplastic rubber and silica/quartz grit
?A fiberglass scratch pen is another viable alternative to sandpaper. Fast, simple and inexpensive...
Last edited:
Sand erasers don't just erase ink. They erase the paper it is written on as well.
Easily the last word in redaction.
Easily the last word in redaction.
- Status
Similar threads
