I can't get the Super T to work with TW 801 atty's.
Works good with the BE112 though.
Any ideas ?
Works good with the BE112 though.
Any ideas ?
TW 801 atty's
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I have not specifically tried the TW 801's on it, anyone else? The dse 801's i have you have to tighten down pretty firmly to compress the oring to make electrical contact. Zofryer loves his with the BE112, but i believe you have to run two thin orings on there or one Thick one for proper seal. You'll have to experiment. You may want to remove all oring(s) to ensure you are getting electrical connection.
Maybe Zofryer or Breakfastchef will chime in, i know they've both tried a large variety of 801 variants on it and could maybe lend some insight.
Maybe Zofryer or Breakfastchef will chime in, i know they've both tried a large variety of 801 variants on it and could maybe lend some insight.
Ok took the o ring off and they work now.
Does the adjustable draw work without an Oring?
Does the adjustable draw work without an Oring?
If you took the oring off and it works now, that means it was not compressing the oring enough to make electrical connection. Not all atomizers will work with the adjustable airflow. Ones that do work for sure are the BE112 and the true 801's. You may want to grip the atomizer down low(to prevent it from twisting inside the atomizer tube) and tighten it down firm. Some of the 801's you have to twist pretty hard to get a good seal and make contact. Just don't grip them up high or you'll twist the wires off inside them, as no doubt we've all done at one time or another.
David
David
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forcedfuel50, by 'true' 801 attys, do the silver ones with the red devil on them qualify or do you mean a different one?
Also, grab the atty low.... I don't understand the concept because the atty is just one long metal thing, where are those wires that can break if twisted too much? I'm having trouble visualizing it.
Also, grab the atty low.... I don't understand the concept because the atty is just one long metal thing, where are those wires that can break if twisted too much? I'm having trouble visualizing it.
Your 801 atomizers maybe all one color, but if you look close at the bottom, you will see that there is a part pressed in there. (see photo for detail). That very bottom part is the atomizer pressed into the atomizer shell. Grab it by this very bottom part when tightening as atomizers are very delicate. If you grab it up high and twist hard, it will spin that bottom piece, which will ruin your atomizer. I know i've twisted a few off in my day by accident
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Thanks for the diagraham, it helps, and for the quick answer. Since I don't have my Super-T yet, all I can identify this process with is my Janty Stick, and the part you marked with an arrow goes into the hole first, so I can't grab it because it's already down in the hole. I have to grab the other end that's still showing, then twist it to seat it in there firmly. Does this make sense?
Also, do you know of a place in the USA where I can get BE112 attys? (I hope I haven't already asked this).
Also, do you know of a place in the USA where I can get BE112 attys? (I hope I haven't already asked this).
You bring up a good point, some models have the atomizer recessed, which in those cases, one just needs to be a bit careful when tightening
Really folks, this does not have to be rocket science. The Super-T was initially designed around the SLB 801 atomizer. While there are differences between the distance from the center conductor of the battery pack to the center conductor of the atomizer (because different manufacturers do that, on purpose), you need only change the rubber o-ring on the Super-T atomizer adapter to a thickness that completely seals off outside airflow. I have had a series of PMs about the ability of the Super-T to works with other penstyle atomizers with the manufacturer. Ideally, you want all airflow from a penstyle atomizer to flow through the center of this type atomizer; assuming you have the adjustable airflow adapter for the 801/penstyle adapter.
Without a spring-like center conductor mechanism to make proper contact between the center contacts of every atomizer ever built, it would be impossible for one device to properly run every type of penstyle atomizer. It will work well with the best penstyle attys out there - the 801 and BE112. Yes, this device has insignificant quirks, but just plain works well - always. I always would recommend the BE112 as the atomizer of choice; particularly at 6 volts. Use two thin o-rings or one fat o-rimg to insure the atomizer is properly sealed. If you have any further questiosn, PM me or forcedfuel50.
Without a spring-like center conductor mechanism to make proper contact between the center contacts of every atomizer ever built, it would be impossible for one device to properly run every type of penstyle atomizer. It will work well with the best penstyle attys out there - the 801 and BE112. Yes, this device has insignificant quirks, but just plain works well - always. I always would recommend the BE112 as the atomizer of choice; particularly at 6 volts. Use two thin o-rings or one fat o-rimg to insure the atomizer is properly sealed. If you have any further questiosn, PM me or forcedfuel50.
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