Ugh! Need more protank help...

[MGates]

I loved my protank when I first got it. Not long after I started having an issue with it making contact with my batteries and firing. I got some advice thanks to ECF and was told to slightly pull down the center pin on the protank coil, and it worked!...for a bit. Since then I have been super careful not to overtighten the protank on my batteries. Even after the fix, I kept having to adjust it while vaping because if I only tightened it enough to make contact it would loosen on its own. Now its stopped working again completely. I've tried two different coil heads on two different batteries. Ugh! Is there any hope??

 

[Talyon]

I wasn't aware one could physically pull down the center pin on a protank coil as its all one piece in the bottom, of the coil itself? Did u have to take the coil part to achieve this? Sorry curious.

Try making sure that the coil/head is screwed in tight enough to bottom plate so that the coil bottom and plate bottom outside are at same length, and if they are then they should be making good enough contact with the battery.

Try pulling UP the center post on the battery, be gentle.

 

[MGates]

I wasn't aware one could physically pull down the center pin on a protank coil as its all one piece in the bottom, of the coil itself? Did u have to take the coil part to achieve this? Sorry curious.

Try making sure that the coil/head is screwed in tight enough to bottom plate so that the coil bottom and plate bottom outside are at same length, and if they are then they should be making good enough contact with the battery.

Try pulling UP the center post on the battery, be gentle.

If you unscrew the coil from the base you can pull the center pin on the bottom of the head down slightly so there is a small gap between the pin and the rubber insulator. The coil head is definetly screwed in to the base tightly enough. When I first started having this issue the first thing I tried was adjusting the center post on the battery. It didn't seem to make any difference. My two Evods still work great on my batteries. Arrgh. I'm stumped

 

[Talyon]

Ty for quick reply good to know. Is there any way u can measure the resistance of the coils to make sure their ok? Try removing the coil assembly and take a fine piece of sandpaper or a nail file and try sanding the outside bottom of the protank the bottom of the threads. Don't do to much as to mess up the threads though this might make a better connection.

 

[Leithan]

The center pin is just friction fit in the insulator at the bottom of the base. If any juice gets between the pin and insulator it will get all slidey. I run mine with the head of the pin flush with the insulator, if you have a bad head pull the center pin and the little white rubber insulator out, cut a small O ring out of of the bottom end of the insulator. Pull out the center pin of your good head, slide the O ring/spacer onto the pin so that its against the head of the pin and reinsert it back into the head, just make sure you capture the positive coil leg between the pin and insulator. You will just have to guess how thick to cut your spacer, but the insulator rubber is pretty soft so it will give a little, I error on the long side. This should keep the pin from getting pushed back up into the head and loosing contact.

 

[MGates]

The center pin is just friction fit in the insulator at the bottom of the base. If any juice gets between the pin and insulator it will get all slidey. I run mine with the head of the pin flush with the insulator, if you have a bad head pull the center pin and the little white rubber insulator out, cut a small O ring out of of the bottom end of the insulator. Pull out the center pin of your good head, slide the O ring/spacer onto the pin so that its against the head of the pin and reinsert it back into the head, just make sure you capture the positive coil leg between the pin and insulator. You will just have to guess how thick to cut your spacer, but the insulator rubber is pretty soft so it will give a little, I error on the long side. This should keep the pin from getting pushed back up into the head and loosing contact.

Since the protank is pretty new, I don't have any heads that are no longer working. Are you saying I could just add an additional o ring over the existing insulator? Can I do that without removing the existing insulator on a working head? If so, is there anything else I could make another o ring out of? or something I can buy? Sorry for so many questions

 

[tonywh]

Pull the bottom pin out to the point it almost comes out. Then use screw it onto your battery. Let the battery push the pin back in.

 

[Leithan]

Yeah you could use one of little silicon insulators from like a aga rba, or anything of equivalent size, just pulling the pin out with out a spacer is a pain because you will have to do it every time you remove the tank, plus pulling the pin out that far will get juice between the pin and insulator making it really slippery and that much more likely to slip back up and loose contact. I rebuild my heads so I really only have "1" the rest are just spare parts

 

[MGates]

Yeah you could use one of little silicon insulators from like a aga rba, or anything of equivalent size, just pulling the pin out with out a spacer is a pain because you will have to do it every time you remove the tank, plus pulling the pin out that far will get juice between the pin and insulator making it really slippery and that much more likely to slip back up and loose contact. I rebuild my heads so I really only have "1" the rest are just spare parts

Thank you for all your help. Sorry for being a pain, but I have one more question. The only coil head that I have that is dead and I can use for parts is an old T3 head. Because it is one of the old ones, the coil doesn't come off the base and I can't figure out how to get the insulator out to see if it could work without destroying it. The only other idea I had was using a stiffer rubber band and cutting out circular peices in the shape of the insulators. I might have to use a couple layers. Would this be pointless to try? I feel like I'm sounding like Macgyver and I'm gonna end up killing my protank. haha.

 

[Leithan]

If I remember corectly the insulator in a T3 comes out from the top, just pull the coil out and you should be able to grab it with some tweezers. Anything non conductive should work, just might be fiddely because they need to be small.