under load meter readings

[Uma]

I've been playing with my new toy from vapormoon called the "510 Under Load Meter".
It's a lot of fun!!!

But....

What do the numbers mean when the atty is attached??

For instance:
Reo Grand, without atty, and a few hours old battery: 3.94
Add brand new VK LR510 1.5 atty and it reads: 3.58

Silver Bullet: many hours old battery, 3.70
same atty as above: 3.26

That's nice. But what is it telling me underload? High, low, just right??

 

[Scottinboca]

Underload means that is measuring voltage that actually hit the atty.

 

[Uma]

Yes, I understand that part.

mmmm, let me try this again.

What should the numbers be when an LR 1.5 is added?
What would the readout be when an SR is added?

oh wait! Are you saying that I'm vaping at like 3.2 or whatever it said, instead of at 4.2 like I hope?

 

[Scottinboca]

I'm not quite sure. All I know is it sounds normal to me. I know that the standard drop for any atty when load is around .4volts. I varies w/ every atty and the device your using. By the #'s you've shown, it seems normal.

 

[Uma]

I'll never understand this world of ohms and volts.
I wonder if there's a readout of some sort somewhere for the various LR's, SR's, HR's.

But, good to know, the .4 drop is normal! Thanks!

 

[mlinky]

Here's a handy chart: http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/469/wattage.png

 

[Uma]

Cool chart, Thanks!

9.17 is the goal for 510 LR 1.5 on 3.7
How do I get the 9.17? Add both the readouts of loaded and without load together? hmmm, but that would be short of the 9 in my case.

I give up. Uncle!

 

[six]

With no load on the battery (nothing drawing electricity from it), you will see its resting charge value (for instance: fresh off the charger 3.7v batteries will charge to pretty close to 4.2v). When you attach any device that draws electricity (no matter if it is a flash light bulb or an electric motor or an atty or whatever) and complete the circuit, you have a load value and it is different for different chemistries of battery. This is why IMR batteries are popular, btw.

Batteries can only discharge at a certain rate. When you draw electricity and convert it to something else (in the case of an atty or a carto, you're converting it to thermal energy with a nichrome coil resistor - in the case of an electric motor, you're converting the electricity to magnetization and then motion), the battery can only discharge at a certain "speed". - Your load voltages are indicators of that speed. - When you get a load voltage of 3.58v feeding a 1.5 ohm coil, that's just how fast the electricity can come out of the battery in to a circuit with a 1.5 ohm resistor.

Those numbers you posted tell me something. The battery that was able to produce 3.58v with a 1.5 ohm atty is almost certainly an IMR battery. Very few li-ons can do that (there are a couple - the AW 2600 can do it and most of the panasonics can do it, but trustfires, ultrafires, etc can not).

It shouldn't matter what PV the battery is in. If you use the same battery and same resistor on either device, they should give you the same readings unless something else is adding resistance (like a dirty connector, ground spring not making good contact, etc). So, that "hours old battery" from the SB put in the REO Grand should give you the same load value and same rest value in either device and so should the fresher battery.

Knowing the load volts lets you calculate the actual watts you are producing. The rest (unloaded) value of the battery charge really doesn't mean anything other than whether or not the battery is full. The load value is what you would plug in to the ohms law formula to calculate watts etc. Ohms law doesn't care about the resting battery charge. it only cares what happens once the circuit is complete and electricity is moving.

Hope that helps and didn't just confuse the issue further.

 

[washvap]

Here is the results I got from my Grand using a 1.5 ohm atomizer:

No load:

With load:

 

[pmoraldo]

Here's a handy chart: http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/469/wattage.png

thanks for the chart saw it once before but forgot to save it

 

[Uma]

Thank you so much everyone for putting in so much time and effort in trying to educate me. This is really helpful for not only me, but for others like me as well.

If it drops below .4 then my atty or battery either one might be teetering towards deaths door. Correct? How would I know which one is feeling sick?.

How do I do know what ohm my atty is producing via the readout under load?
Let's say I don't know the ohm rating... it could be an LR 1.5 or it could be a 1.8. How can I tell what ohm my atty is via the readout?

Is there another toy that is super easy to use like this one I have, except it's for reading the OHM readings mainly?

P.s. Yes, the batteries were not hot off the charger, they were used... both had been used for hours previous to readout.
I understand the batteries drop as they're used, which is why I included their readout levels. I didn't want someone to think that the Reo or the SB can out volt over the other. They were both at different levels because of different lengths of times of using them. But yes, the Reo has the AW-IMR and the SB has the TrustFire type. (which does make a different kind of difference).

I think, if I were to start this thread again, I would ask...

What is the ohm of my atty?

I confuse me too much. I totally feel for you guys. You're the best!!!

 

[six]

You'll need a digital multimeter to test the ohms of resistance for your atty.

there are a number of good tutorials on the web and here on ECF for how to use a multimeter, but one of the easiest to understand is a youtube video from basilray.

 

[Mudflap]

Here's another Basilray video that is very helpful. six has been most helpful in this thread.

Basilray's Guide to Atomizer Testing With a Multimeter!

 

[Uma]

Yes! Six was extremely helpful! I hope my explanation of why I listed my readouts how I did didn't sound too defensive or dismissing in any way. (I understand the battery drop off rates, just not the rest of the ohm story) I'll re-read until it gets through my thick skull.

Thanks for the links to the video tutorials! There are different meters for different readouts. haha, I can be pretty dense.

Off to youtube. Thanks!

 

[Uma]

Let's see if I got this right.
The underload numbers from my original post, is what I was indeed vaping at. The LR actually took my volt down instead of up. The SR atty would actually be closer to 3.7 than the LR was. I would need the meter reader like he has in order to test just the atty's ohm rating. There aren't any simpler ones just for the ohm reading? It was simple for him... I'm still terrified of jumper cables for the car...

 

[six]

I hope my explanation of why I listed my readouts how I did didn't sound too defensive or dismissing in any way.

Not at all. I think about that sort of thing sometimes, too. Most of the time when I type something, the words are monotone in my head, but I worry that others might not read them the way I thought them

 

[Uma]

P.S. This goes against the numbers crunches that I remember seeing last year, but haven't found yet this year. They give the equivalents of the various attys. For example: Using a LR 1.5 on a 3.7v device will be equivalent to vaping at 4.0 or whatever the number was.

Am I on the right track?

 

[Uma]

Not at all. I think about that sort of thing sometimes, too. Most of the time when I type something, the words are monotone in my head, but I worry that others might not read them the way I thought them

Thanks for bearing with me here and for hearing me like I hear me. You're the best!

 

[mlinky]

P.S. This goes against the numbers crunches that I remember seeing last year, but haven't found yet this year. They give the equivalents of the various attys. For example: Using a LR 1.5 on a 3.7v device will be equivalent to vaping at 4.0 or whatever the number was.

Am I on the right track?

If you look at the chart, using a LR 1.5 on a 3.7v device will give you from 8.17 (at 3.5v) to 10.67 (at 4.0v) watts.

To find the equivalent, look at the wattage. A 3.8ohm atty at 6v is about the same.

 

[Uma]

WATTS, ohms, volts, resisted, regulated, ... so much to absorb. Thanks Six and Mlinky, I think I'm beginning to get it.

The CHART

I found this just now. The OHMS Law. calculator.

And I found this blog page: High Voltage Vaping

I jump around a lot don't I. No wonder it's hard for me to absorb anything. aargh. I also didn't realize about the "To find the equivalent, look at the wattage. A 3.8ohm atty at 6v is about the same" part.