USB passthrough

[KILLERkpd]

So I was really bored last night and bodged together a functioning PT. I say functioning because it does work, the voltage out is 5.1V

I did not put in any type of resistor or anything, I simply used the RCA mod to hold my atty, soldered the positive and negative, put in an old PC reset switch in line which I got the idea off a thread on the forums. Well, this thing vapes like a champ, but should I be worried about my caveman type setup? Nothing gets extremely hot and it does nothing seems out of the ordinary exept a much higher quality vape.

Any advise is welcomed, I am ugly enough, I dont need something blowing/burning up in my face

I would add pics, but it look like a mess of wires and some horribly applied electrical tape.

 

[Mathew R Taylor]

I am so unqualified to give you advice - But I will emulate you.... I have been asking on how to do a passthough and gotten no results - I will be converting a dead 510 tonight, thanks for giving me the courage to try ;-)!!

 

[KILLERkpd]

the toughest part was taking apart the RCA jack and soldering. But vaping at 5V is a much better experience....I have used the PT all day with not a single issue, plugged in to my laptop USB jack, and I also used it off my iPad charger which is rated at 5.1V and 2.1 amps out, it also says it is a 10W power adapter. The atty gets hot if I chain vape but other than that, it was well worth it....

Good luck, I am anxious to find out how well you do.

 

[Mathew R Taylor]

I'll post pics if I'm successful, and will likely be on the news if I'm not .

 

[BobTheKlown]

how-to make usb passthrough
PT Wiring Diagram
PT thread with answers to questions you may not be asking

Hope those links help!

Matt: I'm sorry nobody answered you, PM me if you have any questions, I get those pretty quick and would be happy to help, thankfully PT's are pretty simple to wire, my first and 2nd mods were PTs, one 'direct'(5V), and one 'standard'(~4.2V w/ inline batt)....

Killer: If you've already got it up and running at 5.1V (I'm assuming that's unloaded voltage?), the only advise I can give you is drilled into just about every thread I linked: Nobody will recommend using a homemade PT on your computer, it is possible that pulling the current required to power the atty may fry your usb port/hub and/or motherboard, this is true of any computer, but especially laptops... You will need a powersource that can push at least 1.5A (1500mA), for a wall adapter or car adapter this will be on a sticker right below the Vout number... Hope that helps answer your questions!

Welcome to the world of modding, guys!

 

[BobTheKlown]

Found a diagram I did for someone else, LED in the center is optional, to go without an LED just ignore it, the resistor and the wiring going to them (everything in the center)...

Atty connections go: + to center post, - to outside

Some recommend a 220ohm resistor go between the data wires (green/yellow), I see no reason for this, I simply isolate and cap them...

 

[Mathew R Taylor]

Bob - Thanks for the message, I'll PM you if I have any questions - I have just started.... Am I am getting no "juice" to the connector. So I will read see if I'm doing anything wrong and go from there. 'preciate the advice!!

EDIT: Done like Dinner!!! Wasn't using a powerful enough wall charger... Here's my first, and humble submission. Next project, figure out how this dag on heat shrink works - My soldering iron doesn't work, neither does my wife's hair dryer!!

 

[WillyB]

Atty connections go: + to center post, - to outside

Some recommend a 220ohm resistor go between the data wires (green/yellow), I see no reason for this, I simply isolate and cap them...

The atty connections can go either way, running the negative to the center post is fine. If shorting the data lines use up to a 200Ω resistor.

 

[BobTheKlown]

Matt: Looks good! How's it hit?

Willy: Thanks for clarifying that, both those things were mentioned in the threads I linked to. I just recommend + to center for simplification...

 

[WillyB]

Matt: Looks good! How's it hit?

Willy: Thanks for clarifying that, both those things were mentioned in the threads I linked to. I just recommend + to center for simplification...

Yea but it makes folks think these atties are polarized and depending on the battery orientation I've seen folks with some unnecessarily complicated wiring because they thought the positive had to go to the center connector.

Simplify now, complicate later.

 

[BobTheKlown]

Yea but it makes folks think these atties are polarized and depending on the battery orientation I've seen folks with some unnecessarily complicated wiring because they thought the positive had to go to the center connector.

Too true, again, covered in the links, I just didn't wanna go through my whole thing on that at 9:30 last night, while I was entering my paperwork for the weeks work... But again, a good point, and thanks for clarifying, since I did not...

 

[Mathew R Taylor]

It made sense for the Pos to go to the center. As for how it is, it vapes like a CHAMP!!! I am very proud that I was able to kludge this together!! I also found a use for those lighters stored in the junk drawer, they shrink that shrink tubing like nobody's business! It still looks ungainly, but not nearly as much. I think that once I get bored of this, I will upgrade to your second schematic; the only downside to this jury-rig is beside the noise the atty makes as it's heating up, I don't know if it's on (though I am using a momentary switch, so I really should know right ).

 

[KILLERkpd]

how-to make usb passthrough
PT Wiring Diagram
PT thread with answers to questions you may not be asking

Hope those links help!

Matt: I'm sorry nobody answered you, PM me if you have any questions, I get those pretty quick and would be happy to help, thankfully PT's are pretty simple to wire, my first and 2nd mods were PTs, one 'direct'(5V), and one 'standard'(~4.2V w/ inline batt)....

Killer: If you've already got it up and running at 5.1V (I'm assuming that's unloaded voltage?), the only advise I can give you is drilled into just about every thread I linked: Nobody will recommend using a homemade PT on your computer, it is possible that pulling the current required to power the atty may fry your usb port/hub and/or motherboard, this is true of any computer, but especially laptops... You will need a powersource that can push at least 1.5A (1500mA), for a wall adapter or car adapter this will be on a sticker right below the Vout number... Hope that helps answer your questions!

Welcome to the world of modding, guys!

Bob, thanks so much for the links...I will be modifying my mod to make is safer....for sure!!

 

[BobTheKlown]

Bob, thanks so much for the links...I will be modifying my mod to make is safer....for sure!!

ooo... A Re-Mod....
NP Killer, anytime... If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask, either in a thread (for more answers) or PM me (for possibly faster response since, I get those right away) and if it's anything I can answer, I will...

 

[Mathew R Taylor]

Ok speaking of re-modding..... I am sharing my charger for my vGo with my PT. It has worked for the last couple of days, but now I need to charge my batt and I want to use my PT. I have been scrounging around, and I have found an older power adapter that outputs 5v, 2a (old HP power adapter). Any thoughts on skipping the USB route (I only did that so I could jack in to the PC before I read on it ) and wiring directly into a power adapter?

 

[BobTheKlown]

I have been scrounging around, and I have found an older power adapter that outputs 5v, 2a (old HP power adapter).

I would think it would probably work. Got any pics of it? Is it a printer power adapter? My only thought is to be really careful if you open it up, 110-120V AC is a lot more dangerous the 2.5-8.4V DC we usually deal with. If you wire straight from the output wires you should be ok, just do still be careful. If you don't have an led hooked up, theoretically you don't even need to know which is + and which is -, since the switch and atty neither one care....

 

[Mathew R Taylor]

I'll attach - To be clear, I want to mess with the adapter end, not the transformer box; it has been a decade or so since I've played with electricity to that amount, and I'm just not that confident. My plan is to take off the adapter, take off the USB adapter on my passthrough, splice and wrap.



Btw - The lighting is killing my camera, so sorry for the pic. The label reads as follows:

Delta Electronics INC
AC Adapter
Model: EADP-108B Rev.B
Input: 100-240V~400mA 50-60Hz LPS
Output: 5V=== 2000mA

For use with Information Technology Equipment

 

[BobTheKlown]

I would say go for it... Or, for ~$5 I built this so my PT could run anywhere on 4aa NiMH:
cheap usb extention cable ~$1-2, 4aa batt box ~$1-2, (this one's soldered, my first version was just twisted and taped, soldering makes a better connection, but I made it before I started modding)

 

[WillyB]

I'll attach - To be clear, I want to mess with the adapter end, not the transformer box; it has been a decade or so since I've played with electricity to that amount, and I'm just not that confident. My plan is to take off the adapter, take off the USB adapter on my passthrough, splice and wrap.

View attachment 22090

Btw - The lighting is killing my camera, so sorry for the pic. The label reads as follows:

Output: 5V=== 2000mA

For use with Information Technology Equipment

My first mod from a year go. This 5.1VDC@2A PS, hard-wired right to the switch and connector, runs a Joye 510 at about 4.45V (measured/loaded).

Those cheap AC/DC USB 2000mA supplies used with USB connectors and wires can only run a Joye 510 at about 4V.