usb passtrough.trying to make it...

[rmantas]

I am thinking about usb passtrough and i want to ask about voltage.
Usb voltage is 5V is it not too much for my 510? i know that battery's voltage is 3.7V.

So when i make my passtrough do i need to add rezistor to lower voltage?

Here is what i am going to do:
Find somekind fitting for atomizer (i dont want to break my 2 good batteris)
take two wires, + and -, connect button and connect them to usb wire than insert it in laptop ant smoke.
Do i need to add reizstors and where? Is it a good idea? am i missing something?

 

[Kewtsquirrel]

Straight 5v is fine, and you'll probably find you appreciate the experience much more at a higher voltage. I would recommend a powered USB hub though - you *can* burn out USB ports, most boards have protection to stop this from happening,but powered hubs are <$10, so why not be safe?

 

[Retard-O-Bot]

I just made a 510 usb passthrough and I must say, it puts out so much freakin vapor!!! There's a couple ways of going about it, just find the one that seems like it will work best for you. I don't think you'll be disappointed once you're finished

 

[chuaa]

connecting a 510 atty straight to a USB port will work fine...however, as ive read, you would probably need at least 1000ma power (which in most PC USB ports do not have ...think they run at around 500Ma only)

as a solution...would be be possible to attach a 510 atty to a 3.7volt 1000ma rechargeable battery then connect a line (in parrallel) to a USB port..this way, the load will be on the battery and not direct to the USB....similarly, the USB power will then act as some sort of charger for the battery..

will this set up work?

 

[Kewtsquirrel]

You'd need a charging circuit for the battery, and you'd just be vaping off of the battery, this is how most commercial passthrus are setup. An easier way to do it if you're worried about frying your computers USB ports is to simply buy a wallwart-powered USB hub. Fry's has em for about 10 bucks and they work great.

 

[gator410]

Straight 5v is fine, and you'll probably find you appreciate the experience much more at a higher voltage. I would recommend a powered USB hub though - you *can* burn out USB ports, most boards have protection to stop this from happening,but powered hubs are <$10, so why not be safe?

Do I understand you correctly - that I can attach a bare 801 male adaptor (like the one that you furnish) directly to a USB cable (with no additional components in the circuit), attach an 801 atomizer, plug it into a powered USB hub and end up with a workable passthrough?

 

[Shreck]

I am thinking about usb passtrough and i want to ask about voltage.
Usb voltage is 5V is it not too much for my 510? i know that battery's voltage is 3.7V.

So when i make my passtrough do i need to add rezistor to lower voltage?

Here is what i am going to do:
Find somekind fitting for atomizer (i dont want to break my 2 good batteris)
take two wires, + and -, connect button and connect them to usb wire than insert it in laptop ant smoke.
Do i need to add reizstors and where? Is it a good idea? am i missing something?

Do I understand you correctly - that I can attach a bare 801 male adaptor (like the one that you furnish) directly to a USB cable (with no additional components in the circuit), attach an 801 atomizer, plug it into a powered USB hub and end up with a workable passthrough?

I dont see either of you mention a momentary button ( or some kind of on/off button), Your going to need one unless you plan to plug it in, vape, and unplug it each time..

 

[Kewtsquirrel]

Yeah, you need a switch in there somewhere unless you feel like unscrewing your atomizer every time you're not vaping or unplugging the cable/usb hub. Switches are easy to wire in though. I would try to find one that can handle at least 2.5A of current - tactile switches are only rated for .05A, and you'll need to use a MOSFET to route the current away from the switch if you want to use one that's not rated properly.

 

[after32yrs]

What you need
All items you can get from Radio shack
-Small Project box
-Usb cable (you probably have one at home)
-Momentary switch (set to open)
-Coaxial power Jack (Panel-Mount Size N or M)
- 2 Audio Jack that you can soder the cables to)
-Audio female part for the audio Jack.
- 901 Atty
-9V batter connector
- Glue gun
-soldor iron
-Wire

Drill holes in the Project box for the Coaxial power jack, Momentary switch and Audio Female part for the audio jack.

Use glue gun to attach the coaxial power jack this is used to attach the atty to.

Connect the the switch and the Femal audio adapter they will screw in.

Strip the usb cable and attach to the audio switch
Also to that for the 9v battery holder (This is for a portable power source when you are on the road)

Wire the femal with groud (Black) and a power (Red)

Black wire should now be soldered to the coaxial power jack
Use the Red to the switch and then to the a middle prong on the power Jack.

As an IT tech this will not burn out any usb ports and when you are on the road you can just unplug the usb and plug in the 9v battery

I use the glue gun to glue the power jack to the project box.

 

[Charged]

I doubt the atty would work very long running on 9 volts. If the atty does survive, the 9 volt battery would last for maybe 5 drags before exploding or going dead.

9 volts across 3 ohms is 3amps or 3000ma. Most non rechargeable 9V batteries are rated at 500ma/hrs so this would mean 6 minutes of vaping "I hope it's a short trip down the road".

 

[WillyB]

You'd need a charging circuit for the battery, and you'd just be vaping off of the battery, this is how most commercial passthrus are setup. An easier way to do it if you're worried about frying your computers USB ports is to simply buy a wallwart-powered USB hub. Fry's has em for about 10 bucks and they work great.

Well I've tried a few, a 5V @ 500mA and another 5V @ 2000mA (I'll have to actually check it's mA output as it does work for charging and provides 5.2V). Neither would power my M401 PT that works fine off the computer.

This is the one to get:

USB Dual Power Adapter and Tips

To build one, this box mod tutorial is excellent (just leave out the battery for a PT).

MadVapes How To Page

And the real plus is everything you need can be purchased from his site (quick ship too).

MadVapes LLC

 

[Charged]

This is the one to get:

USB Dual Power Adapter and Tips

To build one, this box mod tutorial is excellent (just leave out the battery for a PT).

MadVapes How To Page

And the real plus is everything you need can be purchased from his site (quick ship too).

MadVapes LLC

Same USB dual power adapter for $1.95 less than ^^
http://www.usbpoweradapter.net/usb-dual-power-adapter.htm

 

[chuaa]

tries making a PT....but instead of connecting straight to a power source (ac or PC)..i attached it on a battery powered usb power supply (running on 4 aaa ...so thats 4.6 volts with 1000Mah)...however, when i tested the voltage ..the power drops from 4.6 to around 2volts with the atty connected...so no vapor produced...

was wondering if the size of the USB cable is the culprit...i used the standard USB extention cord to make the PT...are the wires too thin to handle the load?

 

[Dave Rickey]

Define "Standard"? A typical USB extension will use 26 or 28 AWG for the red and black, 30-32 for the data wires. 28 is a bit on the small side, especially if you're driving a demanding atomizer (like a 510), but it shouldn't drop it *that* much. You can find out if this might be the problem by testing the voltage across the source side under load (because the full voltage will get dropped across the cable and atomizer combined). If that is the problem, you can try putting the green and white in parallel with the red and black (one each) to get a little more amperage capacity.

Cold solder joints and bad switches are also a possibility, take resistance readings everywhere with no voltage or atomizer, if you read anything but 0 or infinity, there's a problem. Even a few tenths of an ohm in the wrong place can take the zing out of your vape.

--Dave

EDIT: We need a "My mod doesn't work, now what?" sticky for diagnostic tips.

 

[chuaa]

what i did was to get a usb extension...then cut the other side...and retained the side which you plug into the USB port...the side that i cut..i took the red and black wire and soldered it to the connector....

i cant use the data wires since that would mean i have to also cut the other side (THE ONE THAT PLUGS INTO THE USB PORT) for me to be able to splice them together with the red and black...

i agree with you...voltage shouldnt drop that significantly...will try to figure it out...
will try again...

 

[Charged]

tries making a PT....but instead of connecting straight to a power source (ac or PC)..i attached it on a battery powered usb power supply (running on 4 aaa ...so thats 4.6 volts with 1000Mah)...however, when i tested the voltage ..the power drops from 4.6 to around 2volts with the atty connected...so no vapor produced...

was wondering if the size of the USB cable is the culprit...i used the standard USB extention cord to make the PT...are the wires too thin to handle the load?

Are the batteries connected directly to the USB connector in the power supply? Most I've seen go through a resistor to limit the output current to around 200ma. Thes USB power supplies were designed to charge other MP3 players, cell phones, etc so the resistor is there just in case you connect it to a shorted battery. You could remove the batteries from the unit and measure the resistance from the last + side of the series battery to + output on the USB connector. You will probably see around 20 - 25 ohms.