Using Toptank Mini+ for regular ohm range ?

[Vaping dreams]

Hi, new here of course, how's everyone ? I've been vaping since almost two years with MVP 2 and more recently with Istick 50w and MVP 3 pro. I'm use to rebuild my Protank 3 and Aerotank coils since almost the beginning, following vaping charts, ohm's law, etc. Never liked the Protank 3 tips, my threads are wearing off on both Protank and Aerotank, never liked the air flow base, wanted a bigger tank, easier coils to build, etc. So I thought, I'll buy the Kanger Toptank mini+ even tho I'm not interested in sub-ohming, it's basically just «another recipient» with different coils and I want that RBA+, i'll just make my regular 1.5 to 2.0 ohms and vape between 7 and 10 watts with it...I fear it was foolish.

I'm getting confused and tbh, even more insecure about vaping with it, than I was the first time I've tried vaping 2 years ago. Was in a accident involving fire and explosion long before that, long story, I'm scared of things exploding, and I don't fell smart enough to handle this technical problem.

I asked Kanger if I could use that set up, MVP 3 Pro or Istick 50w, with Toptank mini Rba, 1.5 to 2.0 ohms with kanthal wire to be vaped between 7w and 10w. Support responded: «If you want to use RBA, so it will be the sub ohm tank, the power should be above 20 watts». I'm unsure if support understood my question!?? Could you help me out?

1st question - The manual of the Toptank mini says: «Use the provide tank and battery as a kit and do not separate to use other tank or battery», and «Do not use resistance wire in non temperature control mode». So, was I supposed to buy the topbox? and does it mean that whatever the coil I'm making with the RBA, I can't use this tank with my MVP 3 pro or Istick 50w for some reason? Or, does this mean that I can't use the coils included in the box with my MVP 3 pro and Istick 50w (unless I use the rba with my personal built)?

2nd question- The manual also says: «Do not use any other resistance wire than those specified», what does that means? It only talks about «0.5 ohms» or «0.15 Ni 200», so i can't use kanthal ? Or can I use kanthal but for a 0.5 ohms coil only???

3rd- Do I still use vaping charts and ohm's law while building with the RBA mini plus and using that Toptank mini ?

To summerize: Can I use the Toptank Mini RBA plus, with Kanthal coil, 1.5 ohms to 2.0 ohms, and vape at 7w to 10w, with my mvp 3 pro or istick 50w ? Or am I getting myself into dangerous grounds here?

Thanks in advance

 

[bwh79]

1st question - The manual of the Toptank mini says: «Use the provide tank and battery as a kit and do not separate to use other tank or battery» [...] does it mean that whatever the coil I'm making with the RBA, I can't use this tank with my MVP 3 pro or Istick 50w for some reason?

That's there so that they can deny warranty service if you admit to using with other parts. It should work just fine with the other parts, though. Just, if you need warranty service, don't tell them you did it.

, and «Do not use resistance wire in non temperature control mode».

""Resistance wire" is Kanthal or Nichrome. Those are for Wattage mode only. Temperature-control wires are Nickel and Titanium, use those wires in Temperature mode only. Stainless Steel goes both ways, it has a high enough resistance to use in Wattage mode, but also a steep enough TCR to use in Temperature mode.

2nd question- The manual also says: «Do not use any other resistance wire than those specified», what does that means? It only talks about «0.5 ohms» or «0.15 Ni 200», so i can't use kanthal ? Or can I use kanthal but for a 0.5 ohms coil only???

See above. The .5 ohm coil is probably Kanthal, or maybe Nichrome. It should be used in Wattage mode. The .15 wire is Nickel (Ni200 = pure Nickel), and should only be used in Temperature mode.

3rd- Do I still use vaping charts and ohm's law while building with the RBA mini plus and using that Toptank mini ?

Not really, no. Start low, and slowly increase the wattage until you find a vape that you enjoy. Don't let any chart tell you what you do and don't like. Those charts are old and outdated at this point, made for back in the day when everyone was using cartomizers and variable-voltage "eGo Twist" batteries, and don't reflect the quality of equipment we enjoy today.

To summerize: Can I use the Toptank Mini RBA plus, with Kanthal coil, 1.5 ohms to 2.0 ohms, and vape at 7w to 10w, with my mvp 3 pro or istick 50w ? Or am I getting myself into dangerous grounds here?

Nothing dangerous about it, but you might not find it very pleasant. I have a Subtank mini (very much like the Toptank mini except it's bottom-fill only, no top-fill option) and instead of a .15 Ni200 coil, it came with both .5 and a 1.5 "resistance" coils (I'm not sure if they're Kanthal or Nichrome -- I suspect Nichrome but I'm not certain). I didn't find the 1.5 ohm coil to make a very pleasant vape, no matter what the wattage was at. I think it has to do with how the airflow works. The choke-point when you close it off is just in the wrong place for tootle-puffer setups. You want the choke-point to be right underneath the coil, so that when the air hits the coil it's moving at a high speed and in the process of expanding. This fast-moving, expanding air will cool the coil much more efficiently than the same volume of air passing over it gently. But with these subtanks, the choke-point is way down on the bottom outer ring where you make the adjustment. By the time the air actually gets to the coil, it's casually strolling through a wide-open hallway so it just barely "grazes" the coil and doesn't cool it down hardly at all. Closing down the airflow doesn't make the air move any faster, it just means there's less of it, and that's not what you want for running high ohms and low watts.

 

[bwh79]

Do I still use vaping charts and ohm's law while building with the RBA mini plus and using that Toptank mini ?

Not really, no.

Addendum: You don't use "Ohm's law" per se, but you do still need to account for battery safety. Consult Mooch's blog and find out the true CDR rating for your battery. Multiply that number by 3 (approximate voltage under load at low-voltage cutoff for most regulated mods these days) to find the maximum wattage that will be safe for use with that battery. Just because a mod goes up to 100 watts, doesn't mean it does it safely.

Err...I just noticed what mods you're using. Internal batteries, so this won't really apply to you. In this case all you can do is pray that the manufacturers have used appropriate cells in their designs, to handle the required output. I'll just leave this here though, still, in case anyone else might benefit from it.

 

[Vaping dreams]

Thanks a lot, very informative and I do actually feel a lot safer now.

 

[AegisPrime]

To the OP: I've been happily vaping my Subtank Mini @ 1.6 ohms and 16 watts ever since I bought it (a year ago?) with no issues - flavour and vapour production are great. The Toptank is essentially the same tank with only minor differences - you'll be fine.

 

[AJ Steele]

Basically what Aegis said. Personally, for me, the STM (top tank in your case) is a near perfect mtl, and I vape it wide open, too, at 14 watts and 1.5 ohms on my 75 watt device. Overkill (75watt device just to push 14 watts)? Maybe. Idk. I sub-ohm too sometimes. A big plus for me is being able to slap in a 3500mah MJ1 and vape for 2 days or more before a recharge. Vaping at that low wattage, I fill my STM maybe once a day. I'd really like to try the new Pro RBA in the ProTank 4.

You've essentially got the same setup as Aegis and I, +/-
You should be good to go (just lock those wattage buttons, because +/- a few watts on a subohm setup won't hurt, but on a setup like ours it can make for a nasty vape).

 

[Bonskibon]

I also use the Subtanks for MTL with no problems at all.

 

[TheMike21]

I build my wife's Toptank for MTL at 1.6 and she vapes it at 18w. She loves it. You should not have an issue at all.