Vamo Issues - Broken PWM?

[K-nasty]

I've got a Vamo that I've been using problem free for somewhere around 3-4 months, and recently it's been giving me fits. I realized somthing was wrong a few days ago when vapor was light, and my protank was taking forever to heat up.

I've tried multiple atomizers on it, changed heads on both my protank and evod... Not to mention the slew of different batteries I've tried. Still no dice, so I know there is something wrong with the device.

Also it wasn't giving me any rattlesnake, so i had a hunch that there was no pulse width modulation going on inside. It gives me a similar vape to a home made 18650 mod I made from a busted battery charger. Since I don't have a functioning multimeter at my disposal, I wired an LED to the output terminals on top and my results were interesting: The LED would flash at me for a period of time, then go steady, at seemingly full brightness. each time I fired it, the length of time it flashed was different before it went to steady. It would do this regardless of what wattage the Vamo was set to, although on higher settings, the time it flashed seemed to be shorter before it gave me a flat signal.
I then changed it to votlage, and got very similar results, no setting ever being more bright than another.

I've read about bad connections within the device at the 510 connector, and the press fit joints, so I pulled it apart. I checked the connection to the shell, and the 510 hot wire, and re-seated all of the press fit joints. Still no dice, although I do get a slightly better vape out of it.

The last bit of information I have is when in a stacked 18350 configuration, I would always get a very intense vape from it - regardless of settings. 4 watts, or 12. It didn't matter. It always gave me huge vapor and/or dry hits.

If anyone can point me to a fix for a seemingly broken PWM circuit, I would be grateful.

Tl;DR: Vamo Broked. Please help.


Addition: Some batteries I tried would give me a very dim screen, even though the had vapable voltages (3.7-3.9) When I would go to press the fire button, it would blink at me, then shut off.

More still: When In dual 18350 configuration, the batteries did not discharge evenly. One died all the way, to the point of not even turning the device on, and the other was only drained to 3.9 if memory serves. When I loaded the one at 3.9, it did the same thing mentioned just above. Dim screen, and power down upon pressing the fire button.

 

[InTheShade]

I would highly recommend that you get another 4 posts and then post this thread in the VAMO subforum.

You'll probably get a lot more traction over there.

 

[lilmrsyeti]

I agree with above poster. Get you post count up just a bit and head on over to the Vamo section. Just say Howdy to a few new members and your post count will go up quick.

Hope you get it figured out!!

 

[AttyPops]

If you're stacking batteries and they didn't drain evenly...that's a nasty issue.

First off, switch batteries. Get some good, new ones.

Batteries when stacked don't drain completely evenly, but using them when they are really mis-matched may be dangerous. It's a catch-22. So

1) Try different batteries or better yet..don't stack them. There's no logical reason that I can think of ATM why they would be that unbalanced even if the unit is not function correctly in PWM circuitry.

2) Good point about the VAMO sub-forum

3) Make sure there's no exposed areas on the batteries that could short to ground inside the case.

4) Clean all contacts with ISO...inside the case too, and the batteries, and the atty connector threads.

5) If you're stacking batteries...suggest you get a multimeter.

The LED thing is clever. Kudos. The PWM would reduce brightness (that's actually how you control the brightness of an LED) depending on duty cycle. As to WHY it's doing what it's doing...IDK. It may be monitoring/adjusting the PWM based on feedback. Or it's a malfunction. IDK enough about the Vamo. You'll want a resistor for the LED so you don't fry it. Surprised it didn't fry at those amps.

I'd suspect the FET is being flakey, but who knows. Total guess. Have you asked the vendor? Maybe they can ask the manufacturer.

 

[K-nasty]

AttyPops - I was actually expecting it to pop that LED when I was preforming my "diagnostics." I'm believing it to be a malfunction with the circuitry, seeing as I could never get consistent results.

As for stacking batteries, I don't plan on it. That was the only pair of 350s I had laying around. I found out they were discharging unevenly by chance, and after seeing how they acted, I don't plan to put them back in that vamo until it is either fixed or replaced with something else.

You mention switching batteries - I've tried a whole fist full of batteries. I've got a slew of 18650s just laying about, and I had a fairly consistant rotation of the batteries that gave me a decent vape. My vamo refuses to behave regardless of what batteries are in it.
Buying new batteries from a reputable manufacturer is not an option for me at this point in time. (read: "I'm poor.")

Cleaning: Can't hurt. will do this when I get around to breaking my vamo back open.

 

[AttyPops]

Yeah... the new battery thing was mostly due to the uneven discharge...aka...those batteries may need replacing.

 

[RelativeBewt]

welcome to the forum finally OP! im trying to help do some research

 

[mtlblade1]

i no its simple but have you pulled the pin up on the vamo 510 connection. my v3 wasnt doing good then i reset my center pin and is working great again.