Vamo - Shocking!

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OBDave

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Here's a new one by me - I've had a V2 for about 3 months. It worked great for the first 60 days or so, then recently has developed a bit of a problem with the center pin getting pushed down. Not that big a deal, I use a paper clip to pry one edge up slightly to restore contact with the topper's center pin, much like I've had to do in the past with finicky Ego batteries.

Today, I got a little tingling on my lips delivered through an old-school PT1 (my VV/VW topper of choice until my Kayfuns arrive). Thought that was odd, tried it a few more times. Nothing.

Then it happened again a while later, and I definitely felt it - a little jolt, kind of like what you'd get from one of those trick electro-shock packs of gum, but much, much milder. Pulled the Protank, dabbed a touch of juice off the center pin, re-installed, and all was good for a while. Now I'd say I'm getting buzzed once every 10 hits or so. Sometimes the center pin stays dry, sometimes there's a dab of juice, never anything out of the ordinary for the host of BCCs I've used in the past year.

Any thoughts on the cause? Should I be scared of my device, even though it's just the tiniest of tingles? If there's anyone who's heard of this or can offer a fix or just tell me to deal with it I'd be appreciative, "Throw your device and battery away at the first sign of abnormal use" is getting to be expensive advice, though if it's warranted I'm certainly willing to listen - was hoping to get at least 5-6 months' use before shelling out another $25-30 for a new Vamo or looking for a new low-wattage VW device without having to deal with one button to navigate a host of features (the new 7-30W devices are enticing, but I find a lot of my juices seem to want to stay around 4-5 watts or they'll burn).

Thanks in advance, all!
 

4redstars

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Have you tried using a different battery? There may be a chance of the battery's chemistry not functioning properly and doing messy things with the Vamo. I have a Vamo V5 and the only issue I had was it stopped working with 18650s and only worked with 18350s. I had moved on to an MVP 2 so I haven't actually tried to find the problem with mine.
 

Ryuukon

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Your Vamo has never had any other oddities? Like displaying a low resistance when you try to fire? Maybe a 0.0 resistance?

Sounds to me like you've accidentally cut the insulator around the 510 pin on the Vamo and it's shorting through your atomizer and into your face. Not good!

I'd recommend pulling the pin all the way out of the Vamo and inspecting the insulator. Of course do this with the battery removed, and don't pull it so far out that it breaks the white wire connected to it. You should be able to pull it free and still have a half inch of wire protruding from the top of the Vamo.

If the insulator is ragged or cut, then it's time to do some repair work by way of putting a #60 o-ring from Danco around the 510 pin and pushing it back in. It's not the perfect solution, but it's better than nothing.

Now I could be wrong, but it seriously sounds like there is something fishy with that 510 connection, especially since you have already had to pull the pin out a bit to begin with.
 

beckdg

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Your Vamo has never had any other oddities? Like displaying a low resistance when you try to fire? Maybe a 0.0 resistance?

Sounds to me like you've accidentally cut the insulator around the 510 pin on the Vamo and it's shorting through your atomizer and into your face. Not good!

I'd recommend pulling the pin all the way out of the Vamo and inspecting the insulator. Of course do this with the battery removed, and don't pull it so far out that it breaks the white wire connected to it. You should be able to pull it free and still have a half inch of wire protruding from the top of the Vamo.

If the insulator is ragged or cut, then it's time to do some repair work by way of putting a #60 o-ring from Danco around the 510 pin and pushing it back in. It's not the perfect solution, but it's better than nothing.

Now I could be wrong, but it seriously sounds like there is something fishy with that 510 connection, especially since you have already had to pull the pin out a bit to begin with.

quoted for truth.

It's just a matter of a metal drip tip and eletrostatic environment.

use a plastic or glass tip.

and when the vamo dies because the contact pin in the 510 connection was shorted too many times, then what?
 

edyle

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quoted for truth.



and when the vamo dies because the contact pin in the 510 connection was shorted too many times, then what?

I don't think a shorting out vamo would produce the sensation described.

The outside of the vamo and the outer base of the tank is connected to the negative side of the battery;
the drip tip would be negative also *if*/*when* the spire touches the center tube.

There's no short circuit route between the battery terminals via the mouthpiece.
 

OBDave

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Your Vamo has never had any other oddities? Like displaying a low resistance when you try to fire? Maybe a 0.0 resistance?

Sounds to me like you've accidentally cut the insulator around the 510 pin on the Vamo and it's shorting through your atomizer and into your face. Not good!

I'd recommend pulling the pin all the way out of the Vamo and inspecting the insulator. Of course do this with the battery removed, and don't pull it so far out that it breaks the white wire connected to it. You should be able to pull it free and still have a half inch of wire protruding from the top of the Vamo.

If the insulator is ragged or cut, then it's time to do some repair work by way of putting a #60 o-ring from Danco around the 510 pin and pushing it back in. It's not the perfect solution, but it's better than nothing.

Now I could be wrong, but it seriously sounds like there is something fishy with that 510 connection, especially since you have already had to pull the pin out a bit to begin with.
I've gotten both Lo and 9.9 resistance checks before, both solved by pulling the center pin up. It's certainly possible that I've damaged the rubber protective gasket by doing this, though, will look into a replacement for that - thanks for the tip, and the info on having 1/2" of wire to play with if I pull the pin all the way to do this.
It's just a matter of a metal drip tip and eletrostatic environment.

use a plastic or glass tip.
I may try this as well. I have some metal tips with plastic insulator rings that go between the tip and the atty, but I mainly use those for drippers - a PT1 doesnt give me that option, but I'm getting close to upgrading my tanks...thanks as well for the advice.
Still not wise to have your atty on there while an electric current is flowing in the wrong places...

Sent From My Galaxy Note 3
Yeah I know, I guess my face could be your warning mechanism. Still, appreciate the caution, though the problem seems to have mysteriously corrected itself. Will try the repair tips offered here should it rear its head once again.
As a test, you can take the battery out and check if you feel anything when you put the tip to your lips.
For some reason I'm thinking that I would be unable to replicate the shocking result without a power source...tried it anyway, just for the sake of science - nothing.
I remember these things having a problem with the silicone washer around the pin popping out and causing issues. I fixed mine with an o-ring from home depot. If you do a search, you should be able to find more info, and a couple youtube videos on how to fix. Good luck!
This is my next solution, thanks!
 

Ctor

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What this means is that the body of the atty is at a higher electrical potential than the body of the vamo, and some current is flowing thru your body to the vamo body.

Try cleaning the threads on the vamo battery tubes as well as the threads on the 510 connector and the attys, and that everything is screwed down relatively tight and see if that helps.
 

edyle

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What this means is that the body of the atty is at a higher electrical potential than the body of the vamo, and some current is flowing thru your body to the vamo body.

Try cleaning the threads on the vamo battery tubes as well as the threads on the 510 connector and the attys, and that everything is screwed down relatively tight and see if that helps.

It's possible that the top of the protank is a different electrical potential than the bottom of the protank (which is at the same electrical potential as the vamo body).

In which case, shorting out the top of the protank to the bottom would clear the symptom. The electrical contact between the top and bottom of the tank occurs when the atomizer spire touches the inside of the protank center airtube
 
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