Vaping guide for Non-Rocket Scientists

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SuziesMom

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Oct 28, 2010
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There are a lot of great vaping guides and youtube videos out there. Lots and lots. The amount of info out there boggles my mind, and it changes so quickly that I thought I'd make a little updated version. I'm not an expert, but this is the stuff that I wish someone had spelled out to me in the beginning- I'm not a tech person and the learning curve was quite steep for me.

The Non-Definitive, Subject to Change at Any Moment, YMMV, Guide to vaping for Non-techie people:


Which ECigarette is Best?

If you’re just starting out with ecigarettes there is an overwhelming amount of information to take in. Sometimes it feels like you need a PHD in electrical engineering and another one in chemistry to understand it all.

A lot of information gets thrown around about which ecigarette system is best, and there isn’t a short quick answer to it. Each person looks for different features and characteristics, and are absolutely convinced that the one that they use is absolutely THE BEST EVER.

This is my opinion based on a few months of vaping experience.

Ecigarettes are actually relatively simple, and the vaping experience is usually defined by three parts.

Battery- the cigarette unit itself
Atomizer- a heating element
Juice- the liquid nicotine that the atomizer vaporizes to get nicotine into your lungs

There are a kajillion different combinations and permutations of that basic system. This is meant to be a basic intro to get you started as quickly and inexpensively as possible.

Really, an ecigarette is a battery with a switch, and a connecter. They can get fancier than that, but that’s really all they are.

They get lost, broken, put through the washing machine, the battery wears out, and new ones that you can’t live without get introduced to the market all the time. While the cost of them makes it a purchasing decision you want to research, know that they’re not a lifetime investment. If you like vaping you’ll likely have a few different kits just for fun.

The 5 factors that define most ecigarette models
Switch- either automatic, or manual. Automatic switches turn on when you start to draw on them. Manual batteries have a button that you push to turn them on. Automatic switches are a little more prone to failure because if juice leaks in them they can die pretty quickly. Most batteries are manual- because they provide better reliability/durability.

Voltage- usually ranges from about 3v to 6v. The more voltage the hotter the vapor, and the bigger tendency to burn the juice. Some juices do well at 5 volts others taste burned and nasty. Most of the off the shelf starter units are in the neighborhood of 3 volts, and we’re sticking to that system because the higher voltage models tend to be more expensive, and have a bigger learning curve.

Battery Size- measured in mah- pronounced milliamp hours. The more mah the longer your battery will last. Little pen style ones are around 150-200mah, and it goes up to about 2800-3000mah in some of the big battery mods. Most folks can make it through the day with 2 650mah batteries. I’ve had days where that wasn’t nearly enough- not nearly enough.

Connector type- 510, 801, 808, 901, and some proprietary connections- it’s just referring to the screw fitting that connects the battery to the atomizer. The numbers have to match- so if you have a 510 battery you’ll need 510 atomizers. You can get adaptors so if your favorite atomizer only comes with an 808 connection you can get the little adaptor that will connect it to your 510 battery.

510 and 808/901 connectors seem to be the most popular at this moment- so you’ll find the biggest variety of atomizers available for those units. To me, it doesn’t make much of a difference- I try to stick with 510 stuff just to keep it simple.

808 and 901 have the same threading. Check for compatibility with the supplier before you purchase if you have any questions.

Charging unit- most beginner kits come with a USB charger, and a wall plug so you can charge it with your USB stuff, or plug it into the wall. Other batteries have something called a passthrough at the bottom that will take a mini-usb cable so you can connect it to your computer and vape with it without having to really worry about the battery dying. A lot of mods use standalone batteries that you charge in something that looks like a regular battery charger that plugs into the wall.
Some of the smaller cigarette style ones can also be charged with a Personal Charging Case- a little box that stores and charges them at the same time.

For beginners, a lot of people suggest something called an Ego kit that is about the size of a cigar, and comes with two 650mah batteries. There are also a few clone models available like the Riva.

My Personal Experience/ Typical User Recommendations:
I started with a 510 pen-type and a personal charging case. It drove me nuts because the batteries on the smaller pen types drain very quickly.

Moved up to a Riva 510 kit with 650mah batteries. I sometimes couldn't make it through the whole day with just those 2 batteries.

Moved over to the Volcano Inferno, and also bought a Maxi Roughstack from Mad Vapes. These are my everyday ecigarettes. There are other models etc- but these have a good bang for the buck IMHO.

Ego/Riva kits are in the $30-40 range, and are a valid choice. Look around the ECF and you can usually find some sort of a deal.

If you can swing a little bit more money the Inferno kit from Volcano is very nice. It retails for about $60, and it comes with a 650mah usb passthrough battery, and a 1000mah battery. That kit can get me through most days, and the passthrough means you’ll never be without a battery as long as you can be near a USB power source. They’re also nice looking. The extra $20 is well worth it in my opinion.

My current everyday ecigarette is a Maxi Roughstack from Mad Vapes. I chose it because it takes giant 2400mah 18650 size batteries that last me a day or more, and it was relatively affordable at $45 plus the cost of the batteries and charger (another $30 or so). It’s big, heavy, and looks like a pipe bomb, but it’s sturdy, sits nicely on any table without rolling around, and the size of it makes it hard to lose. If tough, with a long battery life is a factor for you this is a valid choice. I think it’s great for people with dirty jobs because you can knock it around the job site without really worrying about it. It really does look like a pipe bomb, so I don’t tend to use it in public, but it’s my take it to work, and not worry about it device. If I’m out and about or in a situation where I could possibly show off my ecigarette I grab my Inferno.

What's best for you?

Just grab what looks good to you and fits in your budget. Try to pick an ecigarette system that’s adaptable to different atomizer types (rather than a proprietary system) so you have some flexibility when the newest gizmo comes around. I don’t know of many vapers who actually have the same kit that they started out with- although my husband has stuck with his Inferno since he got it.

The atomizer/juice combo is where you really customize your experience to your needs, and it pays to try a few different things to see what you like. If you get an ecigarette and there's something about the experience you want to change start with changing your atty or juice. If you've chosen the battery unit well you'll be able to fine tune the experience just by trying different attys or juices.

Current Types of Heating Elements

Atomizer- Most kits come with an atomizer, and some cartridges. An atomizer is the most basic ecigarette setup. To get juice to the heating element it comes with cartridges that are essentially little mouth pieces that hold some batting. You put juice on the stuffing, and it wicks it to the heating element. You can also drip juice directly on them, and they make drip tips with a big hole that lets you add juice without removing the mouth piece. Grab a couple of drip tips- they’re handy regardless of what system you end up with.

Atomizers are very easy to clean by soaking them in a little vodka, or rinsing them with a little water. It dries quickly, and it’s the easiest way to try different juices to pick the one that’s right for you. Atomizers can last anywhere between a few weeks and a few months.

Be careful with that first hit from a new atty- they prime them with some sort of fluid that just tastes terrible. Give it a few test drags to burn it off.

Cartomizer- a heating element with the stuffing already in it. Generally about $10 for a 5-pack they’re meant to be a disposable device. You fill them with a fair amount of juice, and they keep wicking for a while, and you keep refilling them until they start to get gross. They’re handy when you’re driving. You can clean and reuse them- there are a lot of Youtube videos about them that are worth watching.

The cartomizer category changes quickly, and they come out with new things all the time. Clearomizers are a new addition to the vaping experience. It’s a wick in a clear tube that you fill with juice. Personally, I don’t like ‘em because they’re leaky, and can fall apart in your pocket. A few months from now they might be really great. Right now they’re messy and fiddly for me. Your mileage may vary. They do look cool.

Tankomizers- slightly larger atomizers that fit a tank of juice. The tanks are large and typically hold between 2-4 ml of juice (a lot of average vapers use between 2-4 ml of juice a day). It’s a newer development. Some people love ‘em some don’t like them at all. The draw seemed stiff to me in the one that I tried, and they are pricier than regular carts or attys. Again, this could change at a moment’s notice.

Atomizer/Cartomizers are defined by:​
The Fitting- 801, 901, 510, 808/901, 401 etc- make sure you get some that match your battery type, or an adaptor to go with your combo.

Resistance- measured in ohms. Standard ones go as high as 3-4 ohms , and can go as low as about 1.5 ohms. The lower the resistance the hotter the vape, and the faster it drains your battery. Different juices vape differently at varying levels of resistance, so a hotter atty can bring out some flavors, while others just taste burned at hotter temps.

Standard 510 atomizers are around 2.3 ohms.
Standard KR808D-1 cartomizers are around 3.0 ohms.
Standard 801 atomizers are around 3.5 ohms.
Standard 901 atomizers are around 3.7 ohms.
Thank you DC2 for that list.

Capacity- atomizers hold a few drops. Cartomizers can hold 1ml or more. Juice consumption for most vapers averages between 2-4 ml a day.

The heating elements are the part of the system that fails. Try a few different things, and have backups because they do die suddenly.

Juice
OMG. There are tons and tons and tons of different juices from different vendors. It’s liquid nicotine with either or a combination of vegetable glycerin (VG) or propylene glycol (PG), and flavor. The strength of the nicotine varies from 0 mg up to about 36 mg. VG gives good vapor production, and a mild throat hit. PG has less vapor production, but brings out the flavor a bit more. It has a harsher throat hit, and feels more dehydrating. Some people have or develop sensitivities to PG.

To start experimenting on the cheap grab some high strength juice, and some 0 nic juice, a syringe for measuring, and a few empty bottles so you can blend it out and see what strength works best for you. Try samples from a few different vendors, and try to have fun with it. Tastes vary so check reviews, and search around.

So that’s all there really is to it. Hopefully you’re not completely confused. Vaping changes a lot from day to day, so don’t get hung up on making what seem to be giant life altering decisions. Do it as easily, and inexpensively as you can because tomorrow the next new great device/flavor/atomizer could come out. Six months ago clearomizers, and tankomizers were just in their infancy.

It might take you a few weeks/months to find all of the components that are right for you. Just approach it with an open mind, and a sense of fun. Try not to go broke. It changes about as fast as cellphone technology, so keep checking the ECF, and Youtube to see the latest and greatest.
Good luck!

There is quite a bit more to read, and the ECF has a wonderful library full of info.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/

I may have frogged this up completely, but this info all in one place is something that I wish had been around when I started. Feel free to add/delete/argue different points. This was just my opinion.
 
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DC2

Tootie Puffer
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First of all, great job!

I put together one of these almost two years ago.
And it's still linked in my signature below.

But there is a lot of information I don't have in there because it was before cartomizers even existed!
So you can imagine all of the other things that aren't in there either.
:)

Switch- either automatic, or manual. Automatic switches turn on when you start to draw on them. Manual batteries have a button that you push to turn them on. Automatic switches are a little more prone to failure because if juice leaks in them they can die pretty quickly.
Manual buttons also give you complete control over the vaping experience.
Automatic batteries kind of control the vaping experience for you, which to most people is NOT a good thing.

Most of the off the shelf starter units are in the neighborhood of 3 volts.
Most off the shelf units are 3.7 volts, but can vary from 4.2 volts when fully charged, down to 3.2 volts when in use.

Little pen style ones are around 150-200mah, and it goes up to about 2800-3000mah in some of the big battery mods.
Little "minis" are in that range, but "pen style" batteries like the 801 are much bigger than the minis.

Connector type- 510, 801, 808, 901, and some proprietary connections
Might want to mention the 401 and the RN4081 as well.

Charging unit- most beginner kits come with a USB charger, and a wall plug so you can charge it with your USB stuff, or plug it into the wall.
Might want to mention Personal Charging Cases (PCC) as well.

Resistance- measured in ohms. Standard ones are about 3-4 ohms , and can go as low as about 1.5 ohms.
According to the chart on this link...
http://vapingguides.com/blog/?page_id=343

--Standard 510 atomizers are around 2.3 ohms.
--Standard KR808D-1 cartomizers are around 3.0 ohms.
--Standard 801 atomizers are around 3.5 ohms.
--Standard 901 atomizers are around 3.7 ohms.

I don't have any specs on any of the other ones.
:)
 
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SuziesMom

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 28, 2010
438
210
NY
Thanks! There really are tons and tons of great guides- I just wanted kind of put things in one doc for newbies, and let them know a little bit more about what's available on the market right now. It will be "old" in a month.

I did add a link to the library for more reading, and really appreciate all of the corrections, advice and kind words. Hopefully newbies will love it as well.
 
Excellent write up! I spent months on the forum, mainly because it was so hard to keep track of all the seemingly different types of e-cigs, when really there are a small number of "types," but a gazillion variations. Your explanations were simple and clear, and really help a person to "see" those similarities and differences. Thanks very much!
 
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