VaporFlask Lite by Vape Forward

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MisterCombo21

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Do you mean the resistance is jumping up and down or does it just reads high? Say you have a coil that reads at 0.5 ohms it may read at .52. Is that what your talking about?
It might read a little high but what I mean is when firing for say two seconds it will go from .67 to .69 to .68 to .70. Jumping around slightly. It wont stay constant when firing. I have never had a VW mod do this...
 

Tim Jenson

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So this is what its doing. Normal? Hopefully the gif comes out right, first time making one... Jumps from .67 to .7

As a coil heats up the resistance goes higher, normal but if its jumping more than 1 Ohm you have a problem. The resistance in all my tanks don't change more than about 0.05. Say I put on a new coil rated at 0.50 ohms and start vaping it might start reading 0.53 to 0.57. That is normal but if it's jumping up one whole ohm. I'd contact vape forward and ask them for a replacement mod.
 

MisterCombo21

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Ah ok.. thanks so much. I thought it was normal but none of my IPV's every did that.
Here's another oddity... My coils around .7. When I fire it between 6.8 and 7.19 volts (68 to 75ish watts), it says "weak battery." If I turn it back down to no more than like 6.6 volts, theres no message. The battery indicator is at about 75 per cent... I assume that the battery simply cannot be pushed past 7 volts unless fully charged? Want to make sure I didnt get a lemon....
 

Tim Jenson

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Ah ok.. thanks so much. I thought it was normal but none of my IPV's every did that.
Here's another oddity... My coils around .7. When I fire it between 6.8 and 7.19 volts (68 to 75ish watts), it says "weak battery." If I turn it back down to no more than like 6.6 volts, theres no message. The battery indicator is at about 75 per cent... I assume that the battery simply cannot be pushed past 7 volts unless fully charged? Want to make sure I didnt get a lemon....

That is normal because your mod is protecting from trying to push too much power through your battery that isn't able to support that much power. A battery starts out at 4.2 volts when it comes off the charger, and slowly goes down. When it reaches about 3.7 or lower it starts to sag and can't support as high of a power setting. That is normal if you have a multimeter you can test how many volts it's putting out. Are they old batteries? If so it might mean be the battery is wearing out and needs to be replaced.
 
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MisterCombo21

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Awesome. Thanks. Thats what I assumed... They are VTC5's a few months old... So not a mod issue. My previous devices were IPV 2 then IPV mini, then IPV D2. Never had one capable of firing over 7 volts so this never happened...
Its funny that I have been vaping nearly 6 years but am not as educated as others on the DNA style chips... So in any case I have no more concerns regarding whether it is faulty.. Youve been quite helpful
 

Tim Jenson

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Awesome. Thanks. Thats what I assumed... They are VTC5's a few months old... So not a mod issue. My previous devices were IPV 2 then IPV mini, then IPV D2. Never had one capable of firing over 7 volts so this never happened...
Its funny that I have been vaping nearly 6 years but am not as educated as others on the DNA style chips... So in any case I have no more concerns regarding whether it is faulty.. Youve been quite helpful

Glad to help
 

nexus3

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Aug 29, 2014
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Hi guys,

I already ordered the silver version, i just wanted to know some more details and opinions about the overall built quality, the buttons and the details.

1. According to your oppinion, do you think that VF forced higher quality standarts to the chinese manufacturer, being an US brand, or they just cashed out on their previous glory?

2. What about those "milled stainless steel" buttons, do have any issues with them?

3. Can you compare the overall quality off the buttons of the pin, of the hinges, of the body with the "original Made In USA, Evolv equipped devices" by VF?

4. Is the stainless steel body, really 100% stainless steel, or is it one of those chinese imitations, which you can find in the eleaf TC 60 for example?

Please excuse me, but im tired of Chinese plastic stainless steel and/or overpriced Made in XYZ botique mods.

Thanks.
 

KenD

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Aug 20, 2013
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Hi guys,

I already ordered the silver version, i just wanted to know some more details and opinions about the overall built quality, the buttons and the details.

1. According to your oppinion, do you think that VF forced higher quality standarts to the chinese manufacturer, being an US brand, or they just cashed out on their previous glory?

2. What about those "milled stainless steel" buttons, do have any issues with them?

3. Can you compare the overall quality off the buttons of the pin, of the hinges, of the body with the "original Made In USA, Evolv equipped devices" by VF?

4. Is the stainless steel body, really 100% stainless steel, or is it one of those chinese imitations, which you can find in the eleaf TC 60 for example?

Please excuse me, but im tired of Chinese plastic stainless steel and/or overpriced Made in XYZ botique mods.

Thanks.

I don't have a VF device but from what I've seen it seems that the body material is zinc alloy, not stainless steel. Having several other Wismec devices though I think the quality is quite good, and the chip performs very well.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 

KenD

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So i messed up ordering zink alloy mod, should i expect it to wear out and expose its ugly yellow inside?

Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk
I haven't worn out any of my zinc alloy mods, and I've not been gentle with them. Scratched up, but no ugly yellow showing.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 

pcporter827

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Had a lite and a classic, I liked them...ALOT. I used them everyday. Out of nowhere the lite stopped reading resistance so I had to send that in, then within a day or so the classic started reading everything as an atomizer short. So I sent the classic in after my lite came back, the lite worked great again for a week, then the same day I got the classic back the lite messed up again reading everything really high in resistance (my normal 1.1-1.2 ohm coils were reading 1.7-2.1ish and my ni200 builds that always refine to .12 started reading ridiculous resistances of 1.x ohms AFTER locking the resistance) and it eventually just stopped reading resistance altogether... So I sent that back again. The classic I got back from RMA was actually a replacement and it worked great for a day or so before the resistance started wandering all over and when it would get too high it would just read short....I thought "is it my builds?" So I tried using a subtank with some coil heads and it did the same thing, it would start reading them at .54ish and hold that resistance until I set the mod down for any extended period of time, once I picked it back up they would read .6-.75 and once it got around the .75 ohm area it would just short out. So I waited until the lite came back then sent the classic again. The lite that got sent to me was a replacement and this one worked great and never had another problem but the classic that got sent back to me....I mean it worked but there were spots where the paint just rubbed off, the battery door was unacceptably wobbly and around the top left corner it looked like it got dented during machining and then got painted over, the 510 was crunchy as all hell and nothing sat flush, and it basically just felt cheap.

Please don't take this as me bashing VF or their products as I am one of those Flask Fanatics you hear about and have been with them since the 2.1 released, they have THE BEST cs in the game....it's just that after having a dna 40 2.1 that gave me all sorts of problems, a sx Flask which came to me unusable out of the box (no threading in one of the battery tubes), and the REALLY spectacular time I had with the Vape forward products... I can't recommend that you buy the lite, but then again they have been out for a while now so maybe they worked out the bugs idk. I was also an early adopter of all of the listed devices if that means anything.

During the whole VF lite/classic debacle, I took advantage of the blowout sale on the Vapor Flask by Vaporshark (that's still going on I believe) for $99 bucks and that's been in use the whole time as well since receiving it and it's worked perfectly without any hiccups, which surprised me. I say this because I was also an early adopter of the shark flask and after having it replaced 2x in the first month I ended up just handing it to a buddy for free lol. And I won't lie I had serious anxiety about ordering a new one but the buddy I gave the old one to still has it and uses it everyday and he's not nice to his mods at all. Ever. Id be surprised if he can still unscrew the battery caps (if you own a 2.1 and have ever dropped it you'll know what I mean). So I figured what the hell why not. And I'm happy that I did. The older style flask feels wonderful in the hand and the shark flask while still kinda cheap feeling over the 2.1, feels a million times more solid than the lite classic or stout.

These are just my personal opinions and experiences like I said I can't recommend any of the new VF lineup but I was also an early adopter of those products. Maybe they worked out the bugs and got a handle on the QC over at wismec. Sorry for the long winded story guys :D

Edit* knowing me, I'll probably go buy another classic a few months down the road and it'll work perfect and I'll come back and rave about it[emoji14]
Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk
 
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