Variable Voltage??? Variable Wattage??? omh??? Please HELPPPPPPP!!!!!!

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illusion

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Nov 26, 2012
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Im sorry if it was bad advise i certainly dont want to put any one in danger. I have just seen it work and work well for people, my friend was like him he did not know much about vaping he started on a ego and when he wanted to upgrade i put him on a mech and rba. He just screws his rba onto his ohm meter and wraps a 1.3 ohm coil and gets a awesome vape with a 18650 with out knowing the science behind it. He dose not know what voltage to put what ohms on and he dose not have to he just knows that doing a 5 wrap to get between 1.0 and 1.5 ohms gives him a solid vape. and it works for him as he figures out the rest and he still has a really good vape while he figures it out.

I think we make things more complicated then they have to be some times like figuring out what ohm carto or atty to use at what voltage and ohms law etc etc rather then just saying hey wrap a coil from 1.0 to 2.0 and use a 18650 and you will get a really good vape with allot of flavor. Again i am sorry if it was bad advise i did not think it was.
 

Dammage

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Aug 15, 2013
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Regular every day mod (aka regulated single battery mod)= car with on or off...no gas pedal...you turn the key and wham you are running as hard as your mod can run

VV = mod with a gas pedal, you turn on the car, can adjust how hard the engine runs

VW - mod with gas pedal and a transmission, you turn on the car, it now can adjust how the engine runs and depending on the load what gear to be in

I hope that helps

Awesome analogies thats the best way I've heard it put yet simple and to the point. I actually understand now and I have a clue what volts, amps and watts are
 

Codz

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Aug 2, 2013
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without getting all sciency, he can use the "chart" and adjust his mod / coil

Chart is below...try to keep your mod in the green and all will be well
power.jpg


If your mod runs at 3.7vdc then a coil with with range from 1.7Ω - 3.8Ω will be safe
If your mod runs at 5vdc then a coil with range from 3.0Ω - whatever will be safe

Thanks for posting this chart.. very helpful and will probably save me a few ££££ as well as making the learning curve a little less steep!
 

mkbilbo

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I'm sorry for asking all the stupid questions, but if someone could break it all down to plain English I'd be REALLY grateful!!! If someone could just say that VV = Flavour. VW = temperature. Omh = (I can't even guess???)

First, don't worry 'bout it. It's not much.

VV and VW = temperature.

End of story.

It's really a convenience thing. People find different juices are better at different temps. That's purely personal preference and taste. VV/VW is so you can adjust to taste. Knowing the voltage or wattage (the second V and the second W) is a convenience. As in, maybe you like juice X at voltage Y. But juice A at voltage C. So instead of having to "fiddle" to find what you like, you can "set it" and go.

Basically, just start low on the setting (either one, which ever, just start low) and work your way up gradually until you go, "yum".

And that's about it.

You ever used an electric stove or electric space heater? You know, coils that heat up and turn red? That is basically the same thing going on inside a PV ("e-cig"). Little coils that electricity runs through and they heat up (and actually do glow red by the way) to vaporize the juice. Run more power through them, they get hotter. Less power, the get cooler. Just like an electric stove or electric space heater, you turn the knob to get the amount of heat you want.

You can look at it that simply. Higher = hotter. Lower = cooler. And that's both VV and VW. They're two ways of looking at the same equation.

(VW is the way to get the most consistent results if you switch clearomizers or cartomizers or whatever you, personally, attach to the battery. It adjusts to the resistance of the little heater coil to deliver the voltage needed to hit more or less the same temperature. It's probably the most convenient of the convenient "variable" thingies. :) )

The only warning is be careful buying anything advertised as "low resistance". That's when you have to start paying closer attention since you can drive "low resistance" devices high enough to scorch your juice (yuk) or burn out the coil (and have to buy replacements). And, again, always start low on the settings (either one, VV or VW) and move up. Some juices do great at just about every temp. Some "fry" easily and taste awful.

By the way, if you haven't bought yet, think about a Joyetech Twist (found here) or a Vision Spinner (found here). Both good, both VV (but not VW), both really easy to use. I'm using Twists. Thinking of trying a Spinner. Maybe switching over time (when I have to replace a battery, they last a long time but not forever).

They both have a little dial at the bottom and it's just a matter of turning it to what you like (again, starting at the lowest setting of 3.3 and moving upward until you find a setting you like... always start low and come up, always).

Much less to "figure out". But you get the variable temperature thing. Which is very nice. I have some juices that are better "cooler", others that are better "warmer".

The iTaste, from what I read, is a great unit. But if it's confusing, why bother? Maybe later. When "ohms" and stuff make more sense. If you ever care. You don't have to. You can get the "variable voltage" much more simply with the Twist or Spinner. They're both more like the electric stove or electric heater. You just turn a dial to get the heat you want. :)
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

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I found this video to be very helpful. Understanding how the parts inter-relate is important. The specific science, not so important. For example, increasing the voltage or wattage will increase the temperature at the coil. Different coil temperatures at the atomizer atomize different juices different ways. The ability to adjust coil temperature, and atomization, is important in that it allow you to customize your vape (flavor, throat hit and vapor (FTV)) to suit your preference. An absolute must, particularly early in VapeQuest. Here:



Many juice vape just great at about 7 Watts (YMMV). Some like it a little higher, some a lot higher. To achieve 7 Watts, for example, the resistance, measured in Ohms at the coil, require a certain voltage. Ohm's law allows you to calculate the voltage needed to achieve the Wattage desired, depending on the resistance, measured in Ohms, at the coil. Watch the video several times until you understand this relationship. The actual science is almost irrelevant from a user POV. Good luck, Power up and Vape On!
 
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Thin

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Jun 18, 2013
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Think of your atomiser a bit like an electric bar fire. It's a coil of wire which heats up when you put current through it. Now thread a bit of wick through the middle of the bar and soak it juice. Switching on the fire makes the wire hot and vaporises the juice in the wick, which you inhale.

Now think what would happen if you only had a small battery to power your fire. It wouldn't get anywhere near hot enough to vaporise the juice. An electric bar fire has lots of coils, or wraps. Let's say it has 500 wraps to illustrate my point. It uses maybe one kilowatt of electricity each hour. If it was half the length, and only had 250 wraps, it would use half a kilowatt per hour, but burns red hot just the same. How about if it only had one wrap, would a pair of truck batteries maybe be enough to make it hot? Now take an electric ring on a cooker. It's not very long but it's thick, and it still needs a lot of power.

This illustrates the same as your atomiser. Heating a long piece of wire, or a thick piece of wire, takes more power than it's short thin sister. So, the amount of power you need could be a small battery, a pair of truck batteries, or require plugged into the wall - depending on how thick/long the wire is.

So, essentially, variable voltage lets you heat up the wire to what suits you and your particular juice, by putting more power thru the head. It might be different for the next juice, or for a different head.

Variable wattage lets you tell your device "I like my head to be this warm", and it'll adjust the power for you. Fine for changing heads, but not necessarily juices (some juices taste better hotter or cooler) - so I find it a bit pointless. Others will disagree.

Bottom line is...you want either VV or VW, but don't get too hung up on which it is, they both do the same thing by adjusting it. And changing the resistance of your head also changes it (like the cooker ring).
 

WarHawk-AVG

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Jul 27, 2013
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Thanks for posting this chart.. very helpful and will probably save me a few ££££ as well as making the learning curve a little less steep!
NP, this is just a mathematical "chart" that shows you by using ohms law what the coil is capable of producting...

With that said you can push it past the "safe" limit but you run the risk of burning the coils, burning your juice yadda yadda, the more heat you push into the juice just means the faster it can vaporize, but pushing heat into that teeny tiny thin piece of nichrome metal without something that can wick the heat away fast enough can cause excessive heat, and excessive heat in oil is a bad thing
 

Ronald3638

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Aug 16, 2013
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I'm a nobie myself and I got a couple of VV/VW APV's recently.
My advice is get the VV/VW APV you want.
If it will do watts set it to watts.
If it does Average (AKA Mean) or RMS set it to RMS.

Now the tricky part; how to use it.
If the vape is weak bump it up if it tastes burnt drop it down.
That's it.:laugh:

My personal preferences.
I run 7 Watts +-1 Watt with standard resistance devices, CE4, CE5, Vivi Nova, Protank

9 - 10 watts with dual coil cartomizers and an RSST with S.S. wick.

I have a SID and a stainless steel Vamo and I like them both.
By the way the RSST and S.S. Vamo look awesome together.
 
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