Oh kay now, after perfecting the way I build the inverted V-twin, vertical mounted dual series coil, and the requests for precise build and wicking instructions with photos, here it comes.
But first, a little history, just because,
Reason I am doing the build in the Vcore thread, is this is where the Snakeyes first made an appearance in my vape career. Vcore got it's start in the nano-dragon coil thread, which is an offshoot of the Micro Coil Thread. Jeremy and I thought vertical mounted builds deserved their own thread. Since he had more experience than I did at the time, opted to let him start this thread, fact I had to push him to start it, threatening him that if he took to long I was going to start it and call in the Romulan Warpcore, or the Klingon Singularity. Volcanic Dragon was another of my suggestions.
Have only been a Vaper for just over 1 year, but my Quest to find that "Something Missing" in my vape, lead me to where I build and vape today. The inverted V was just a natural progression of my vape and trying to optimize the Russian, which was my first rba. Keep in mind also, that every build I do is usually inspired by others builds but applied in a different way or fashion, that helps optimize my rba's.
It is my belief, and a few others, that rba's that supply air from beneath the build are atty's that can benefit by being built vertically. the air flowing through the coils seems to help optimize rba's of this design. Least for me, this has been the case. I build the Aqua, Magma, Russian, and Rose2 all vertically, with great success. And on all those mentioned atty's, I vape them at a minimum of 70 watts, with the Aqua and Magma's in the 90's
Have found that single air supply rba's like the Russian and Rose2, an inverted V vapes much smoother, with no hot leg, and can vape at much higher watts then a single vert in the same space. On the Russian especially, it is my preferred build, and only one I'll have on it, just fits it purrfectly. Also, this is the easiest build to re-wick, dry burn and maintain. And is more tolerant on wicking densities.
I use an Artisian Wire coil jig to wrap all my coils now. Can be found at any Michaels Hobby, or amazon dot com. I keep heavy tension on the wire when doing my wraps, keeping as fluid and constant in my tension and coiling as possible.
Here is a pic of the latest V-twin that I just installed on the rose. This is after have done all my wraps, pulled back the wire one round each on each leg, then pulled off the 1.5 wraps I needed to get my target ohms of 0.366 .
When doing the V-twin, one has to keep in mind your mounting requirements and placement of where you want to have the end leads once coil is bent into the V. Do I want the leads on the outside of the coils, or on the inner surface. On the Rose2 they need to be on the outside surface, or no air will get up the stacks, with the Russian, outside and mid way works well, depends if you are using the mounting holes or the under screw head sites. In either case, need the outside of the coil wraps to be even with the inside surface of the mounting blocks once bent into position.
The next pic is for the Rose2 coil, and the following shows the exact same coil on the Russian.
As you can see, am using the mounting holes that go through the Russian post blocks. Cut off a couple lengths from my wrapping mandrel, and use these sections to help in mounting and bending this coil. Once it's decided where the leads are to end up, I use a small pocket knife blade to count the wire loops, to position the blade between the middle gap. Use the mandrel section in the coil while doing this, once I know where to bend, work the blade between the coil wraps, then pull the mandrel back enough to work the blade completely between the wraps where to bend. Then bend the coil into the a V. once both mandrels can go through each coil, will use needle nose pliers to tidy every thing up, squeezing it here and there if necessary to get everything just right.
Once the correct V angle is attained, then bend the legs into the correct plane and orientation for assembly and mounting. With the rose this requires a leg length of 1 cm. Less and the coil will be to close to the air intake and the center wick will plug the air. It can be a hair less than 1 cm, but a very fine hair. With the Russian, leave the legs long, slide legs through holes, bend coil up into position, adjust, then tighten down the screws and trim the ends.
Wicking, using both Ramie and Rayon fiber in exactly the same wicking method and procedure. And pretty damn close the same densities and thickness. The following pics is wicking Rose2's coil, but the process is the same for the Russian, but with the coil mounted.
First get the amount of wick to start with. This is the stand of ramie I selected, did cut this one in half, before wetting it.
Then wet my wick with juice, applying enough to soak the wick and get everything nice and orderly. Here's half the length of the same strand of Ramie after juice is worked in and loose ends trimmed off.
Notice, shaped the ramie into the form and thickness of what is being wicked.. Working it to fit the length of the coils. Once in the correct shape, place the wick between the coils, or if mounted, thread it between.
Then warp both tails around the coil:
Once each tail is wrapped 1.5 times around the coil, fold the tails up;
On the Russian, coil is already mounted, and this is when to secure the containment ring, trim off any excess wick tail, then tuck the wick into the juice decks. ending up with this:
On the Rose, just grab the wick wrapped col build and insert the coil legs into the mounting holes, tighten the set screws, then tuck the wick tail into the first juice ports:
Then I'll usually pull half the width of the wick back, and tucking it down to the deck and out the opposing juice port. If there is not enough wick to fill all four juice ports, then just grab a spare strand and place in the opposing port and tuck it down and over the other end.
Then trim everything up, saturate.
assemble fill and vape.
New wicks I break in straight mech, so say 45 watts is what she's doing, slap her on the S.Max and dial it up to 5.5 volts and we are doing the "Smoke on the Water" warp 80 boggie.
On this build I used 22 gage Kanthal A1 wire. 12 wraps around a ~16 gage mandrel will net 0.42 ohms, wrapped this one at 10.5 wraps and nailed 0.367, or their abouts
Have the Russian and both Rose2's with the iV-twin, ranging from 0.37-0.41 ohms, so on Max, that's 72-82 watts at 5.5 volts. Have both ramie and rayon as wick, all three, vaping quite phenomenal, just saying.!!!!
Will be posting this on several threads, but couldn't of built this with out the work done by others first, micro coil, nano dragon, Vcore, just hemp, just ramie, rayon, you name it, I
steal cultivate ideas from the best, then apply it towards my needs and goals. So thanks ecf for making me the vaper I am today.
Vape long and Prosper.!!!!
Would apologize for the post's length, but frak it, had more then one request for this build, and didn't want to leave anything out.
Oh, and I wanted to add, this build works phenomenal at any ohm build you are aiming for. I initially had the Russian at 1.8 ohms with this build on the Provari, vaping at 15 watts, and it like blew me away. Have used twisted wire of every sort on the iV, with great suprising results. Tiger, M.Mundy, Savannah, double and tripple twisted 28, you name it, all Vapped Fran Frakking Tasitic.!!!
The reason I am now using 22 gauge is because I am targeting a very specific ohm build. Namely my target ohms is 0.3667 ohms. Yeah, I know, dreamer and , what?, Why that #. Well, have a SuperMax, and it's max output is found at 5.5 volts and 15 amps. Hit the target I'm regulated vaping in the 80's. 0.4 will get ya 75.
Also, while I love twisted combo's, find mounting them haphazard in some rba's. especially on posts that share multiple wire leads. Oh well, got to play with some things it seems.
