venturing into mechs and sub ohm, am I prepared??

[Kyi]

Ok long story short and I suspect this is probably the same case with most vapers, I've been vaping for a while and do not consider myself a noobie as far as general safety and stuff goes, but I've been quite comfortable with my regulated mods and clearos for the most part. I bought a few RDA's and a KFL clone at one point just to try out of curiosity after hearing all the rave about them, but I found it a hassle to build coils and mess with it, and it seemed like I never really got mind blowing hits and flavor, at least not consistently enough for me to bother with it for long.

One day I got bored and decided to rebuild my Kayfun again and ended up with something pretty good, I was really enjoying how it hits and how smooth it was and it kinda got me fired up about trying this whole rebuilding thing again. I've always wanted to try blowing huge clouds and whatnot but too scared and paranoid of battery explosions and other issues related to using mechanical mods. After much reading and research, I feel like I'm educated enough to not mess anything up too bad and I'm ready to buy my first mechanical mod and try making lower resistance coils and maybe even sub-ohming. I do have a few questions however.

If I typically vape around 8-10 watts on a regulated device, will switching to lower resistance coils on a mech be really harsh and hurt my throat? I don't want to cough or gag and not be able to handle the hit. Should I perhaps drop my nicotine level or get higher VG juices?

While making a coil, is it okay to try to squeeze the coils together with tweezers WHILE the mod is firing? I notice most people wait till they let go of the fire button to squeeze on videos, but I was just wondering if anything bad would happen if you touched it with something metal.

What are typical situations where a battery accident could happen during general/casual use? Loose batteries in purse/pocket? Accidental overfiring from forgetting to lock your mod?? Over discharging or overcharging? How can I prevent overcharging, do I just make sure the battery isn't on the charger for a long time after its full? Will I know when my battery is about to discharge from the way it vapes or a massive drop in performance or is it more subtle?

Should I get one of those box like ohm readers or is my VV3 and Evic good enough of a resistance checker for my builds? Can these devices read very low builds even if it doesn't fire? What type of ohm meter would you recommend (not looking to spend a ton of money on Fluke and would prefer a box like one instead of a multimeter)?

I think I am going with a HCigar Nemesis clone with a magnetic switch for my first mod, as much as I feel its kinda overplayed and everyone has one, based by what I've read, it's a safe, easy mod to get started with and thats what I need. I'm also getting a kick, the XTAR VP1 charger, a plastic battery carrying case, and some Sony VT5 batteries. And some additional random stuff I got: carrying case for mod, Nemesis hybrid adapter, and some 29 gauge Kanthal (I already have 30 and 31).

I think my primary out and about setup will be the Nemy in 18350 mode with some AW 18350 batteries and I will use my KFL with builds around 1.2-1.5 and when I am at home, I will use the larger setup with a Magma RDA clone that I just got. I want to try some lower resistance builds so I probably won't go below .8. How low can you go and be relatively safe?

Thanks all.. and sorry for the not long story short after all.

 

[D. Waterhouse]

While making a coil, is it okay to try to squeeze the coils together with tweezers WHILE the mod is firing? I notice most people wait till they let go of the fire button to squeeze on videos, but I was just wondering if anything bad would happen if you touched it with something metal.

FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THINGS ELECTRICAL NO!!! That will create a direct short and your tweezers will get very hot, ask me how I know.

For heating coils to compress them I use a torch like this but a cheap lighter will do ok.

For a box meter I got mine from Madvapes but if I had to pick up a new one I'd get it here. A Multi-meter is more versatile but the little box meters are a lot more handy for rebuilding.

As for kanthal I'd say skip the 29 and get some 28 and 26. I've got 10 feet each of 32, 30 and 29 collecting dust and use 26 almost exclusively but I just started playing with twisted 28.

Other than tweezer misconception you seem to have everything well in hand, Happy vaping!

 

[chrisj3982]

If you are going with a mech, why get a kick? That just makes a mech a regulated mod, therefore making buying the actual mech a little on the pointless side. If you have a vv mod, that's the same thing that a kick will do to a neme, make it a vv mod


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[chrisj3982]

But yea, you do seem to know what you are getting into (aside from the tweezers thing)


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[TheJakeBailey]

They DO make ceramic tipped tweezers that work for this exact thing as they are non conductive. I've been thinking about picking up a pair myself!

$11.85 Heat Resistant Stainless Steel Tweezers for E-Cigrettes - ceramic pointed tip at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[wheelie]

I run a 7amp fuse in my mechanicals most of the time. I am down to .9ohms which is 4.5 amp. Will go a little lower next time. Fuses are $1.95. All my batteries are High Drain 20 to 35 amps.

I paid about $35 for a commercial Electric (green in color) mullimetre from Home Depot. It is bang on for readings with my Fluke I have in my work truck. I always double check on a regulated device before firing it up.

 

[Funk Dracula]

If you are going with a mech, why get a kick? That just makes a mech a regulated mod, therefore making buying the actual mech a little on the pointless side. If you have a vv mod, that's the same thing that a kick will do to a neme, make it a vv mod

Party pooper.

 

[coalyard]

Party pooper.

Heh.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xgx4k83zzc&feature=kp

 

[JMarca]

If you want a mod that can do sub ohms like a mech yet still give you a constant vape like a regulated device look into a DNA 30 mod, nothing wrong with regulated devices they give you a solid hit everytime which a mech never will. The OLD problem with regulated devices was that it couldn't give some people the vape they desired because they all had limits. With a DNA 30 that problem is gone, you'll be able to get the vape and clouds (if you're into that) that you want and still get a constant solid vape along with all the security features.

 

[zahzoo]

IMO... if you don't own a digital multimeter and know how to use it... you aren't ready to go with mechanical mods and sub-ohm coils.

While the little box readers with 510/eGo connectors are convenient for measuring coil resistance and detecting shorts in attys... you can't use it to check battery charge levels, voltage drop offs and potential switch or mod shorts/malfunctions.

Safety is the primary reason many experienced users advise that mechanicals and rebuildables are for advanced users... It's not expensive or difficult to learn ohms law and have the ability to test your gear. I just see too many folks diving into the deep end on an alarming rate and haven't taken the time to learn and equip themselves properly.

 

[Nikkita6]

If you haven't already purchased the Nemesis, I would go with a Stingray instead. Like you said the Nemesis is so over played, and you don't have to purchase a magnet upgrade, in addition to not having to worry about breaking those often fragile Nemmy magnets.

Although you sound like you a good knowledge base, you do not need to sub ohm in order to create major clouds .. you just need a solid build, a good VG blend eliquid, and AIR.

The "hotter" vape that a sub ohm build creates may be too much for you, depending on what you like, and can handle ... I have vaped as low as .8, and I found it WAY too hot for my liking. My throat felt violated!

Being that you plan to sub ohm with a 18350 set up w/AW's, you need to make sure that your build stays within the Amp range of what this battery can safely provide. And as suggested above, get yourself some Ceramic tweezers so that you can safely squeeze your coils while firing them.

 

[toddrhodes]

On a regulated mod with a PT2 or kayfun, I am generally only vaping in the 7-9W range. 30W just seemed way overkill for me.

Fast forward to today and at work I still have a KF Lite+ clone I just rebuilt last night, but two RDAs (one Caterpillar and one Quasar) that are under .4 ohm. On my DNA30 clone, it is turned all the way up to 30W. On my fresh VTC4 in my Magneto? No idea, but it's higher than 30W. The RDAs I am using are tall enough that I don't get a ton of heat in the vape, but I do get a ton of flavor and vapor if I want. I don't blow clouds at work, though, that's just not polite to my coworkers. But I say all this to point out that RDA's are a whole different beast when it comes to power and you'll have to adjust your expectations. Vaping an RDA at 8W is a waste of time. Get one up around 30W on the right build and you'll just know, trust me.

 

[Kyi]

I actually have a Hana clone that I ordered from Fasttech on the way... well it's not on the way yet but I do have one ordered I just have to wait for them to ship it. As far as the kick goes... I guess I don't really need it if I already have my MVP, iTaste VV3, and Evics (aka my noob devices)? I just thought it would be something I'd try but I know it does seem moot on a mech. It would just be another safety feature to mess with.

zahzoo I wouldn't quite say I am completely ill equiped and a complete noob to all of this, I don't think I NEED a digital multimeter or I'll explode, I'm pretty sure for the most part it's fine to measure coils with a box style ohm reader or their PVs, please correct me if I'm wrong. I just think while it's good to be safe, I don't see most people measuring every single little thing and need to wear a flame ......ant suit and helmet and have the top of the line multimeter and take an engineering class before they are ready to try a mechanical mod. I will be buying a XTAR VP1 which does show battery voltage levels and have an array of other protection features, it is a bit of a splurge as far as battery chargers go, but trying to be safe! I listed the stuff I was buying, is that not safe enough? I know my basics and I don't plan to juggle overcharged/discharged batteries around with metal objects or continuously fire my mod just for giggles. I am aware of limitations and do not plan to jump into .3 ohm builds or whatever, the lowest I may attempt at some point or until I get more comfortable will probably be at the .7-.9 range but for now I am comfortable around the 1.2-1.5 range.

The tweezer thing wasn't something I was going to try, I knew most people didn't do it for a reason but I wanted to make sure.

My original reason for wanting a mech was not to blow big clouds or try crazy builds to impress people, I just really had my Kayfun working well and thought "Man this would look really nice on a small sleek little mod". I have it on top of my Evic in 18350 mode right now, and while the Evic is pretty much the smallest it can be, it still looks like a big, bulgy, heavy, phallic device (imo). I want something small! Of course, I have no intention of going sub-ohm on a 18350 battery. I currently have a 1.7ohm coil, vaping at 10 watts on it and it hits fine for my tastes.

However! Since I'm getting a mech mod to use in the 18350 mode mostly for looks and portability, I figure I might as well buy some additional stuff so I can try more advanced builds and lower resistance coils at home, when I am not worried about holding huge devices or portability, hence why I am going to buy some Sony VTC5 batteries. I mean, as long as my batteries are good and not overcharged or over discharged and I've tested my coils to make sure there isn't a short, what ELSE can really go wrong? Do I really need to take EXTRA EXTRA measures? Do people actually go the extra mile to make sure they are extra sure they are safe? I know how important safety is but I don't like it when people act like you have to have an engineering degree before you even think of picking up those tweezers and coils.

As far as the Nemesis goes, I haven't ordered it yet but I've heard lots of good things about the Stingray. But I am not really looking for an all black tube, I want something SS to match my Kayfun. Do Stingrays come in a SS finish? I honestly rather not mess with a finicky magnetic connection but whatever works and doesn't make me angry or explode.

 

[Myrany]

THe argument I would make if you get a mech you really DO need a multimeter. Mechs have no circuitry to shut off when your battery gets low. Many say you can tell when the vape level drops when to change the battery. I can tell you from my own experience that is not true for everyone. I vape 1.2-1.5 ohm coils on mechs. I cannot tell a drop in vape until I am down below 3 volts on the battery and that is NOT a good thing for the battery.

What I did was test the remaining charge in my battery (with a multimeter)ever hour and note how much (mL) Juice I had vaped. Over time I sort of learned that if I vape x mL of juice with y ohm coil in z device I haven't pushed the battery too much. But without the multimeter I would have never figured that out.

 

[Kyi]

Well, I do have a multimeter that I bought a long time ago to measure my coils before I realized I could do it on my iTaste VV3, so I've been using that to check my coil resistance. I just find it slightly more annoying to use the multimeter with the prongs and stuff as opposed to just sticking it on one of my VV devices and checking it there. As far as battery voltage goes, couldn't I just check it on the XTAR VP1 battery charger? I could just take it out and stick it on the charger real quick to see where it's at. The XTAR does have a LED display that shows your current charge. Is that not good enough? I mean, if it isn't then I guess I don't even need to spend the extra $20 to get this particular charger. I think this charger can also fix a over discharged battery, but I haven't read into that too much.

 

[Myrany]

Yep as long as you do check the battery frequently until you get a handle on when to change it doesn't much matter if it is a multimeter, a mod or your charger you are checking it on. It is the checking it that matters.

I personally find sticking it in a mod more annoying than just grabbing the multimeter and sticking one probe on one end of a battery and the other on the other end. To each their own.

 

[edyle]

.............................

If I typically vape around 8-10 watts on a regulated device, will switching to lower resistance coils on a mech be really harsh and hurt my throat? I don't want to cough or gag and not be able to handle the hit. Should I perhaps drop my nicotine level or get higher VG juices?

..............................

If you just use shorter wire of the same gauge then you'll get burnt juice.

But you're getting 29 gauge. The 29 gauge is thicker wire.


Also, if you run dual coils, they take more power.

 

[zahzoo]

You can get away with using regulated mods to check battery voltage... but the multimeter is just the right tool for the job, plus anything else you'd need to check on your gear.

The main point is... discharging these batteries below 3.2 volts damages them. Do that far enough and/or frequently enough and they become unstable chemically. Even with the safer chemistry batteries... unstable is not a desirable state and could result in gassing or worse... which could cause physical injury and/or serious property damage.

 

[blazin' 93]

Id say jump on in. Just be aware of your setup and battery. Start with a good 30A-35A battery and stay above .3(just to be safe) and toy around with some coils and builds and find what you like. I started with 28 microcoils at about .7 and have been working my way down. Now ive found my happy place with dual 22g nano dragon coils. For me its not the size of the clouds i mean dont get me wrong its cool but for me its the density+flavor i can taste and feel. But back on track just always be aware of what you are doing. If you feel comfortable thats all you need.

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[blazin' 93]

Voltage drop is really only significantly noticeable on lower ohm builds. But once you are doing it for long enough you will notice the difference in vapor production.

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