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can someone help me, I made my first rebuild last night on the vivi with a 400 mesh ss wick. wrapped the kathnal 8 times, put it through the center post and completed the rebuild.
The problem i am having is that the ohm on the atty jumps around. it started off at 2.7 then went to 2.3, stayed there for a few vapes, then it shot down to 1.7, and now its at 1.0.
Any suggestions!
The problem i am having is that the ohm on the atty jumps around. it started off at 2.7 then went to 2.3, stayed there for a few vapes, then it shot down to 1.7, and now its at 1.0.
Any suggestions!
I have zero exp with ss wicks but the jumping ohms means its shorting. It sounds like our wick is a: not oxidized enough, or b: an unoxidized end or wire is touching the sides.
That sounds like a short on the mesh. Try putting a single tissue paper wrap around the mesh and then coil the resistance wire. Do not fire it up whilst dry. Get the juice onto the mesh and paper first before firing it up.
I didn't like the air intake pin holes that were too small no matter of wick size, and both of my tanks would whistle. So I bored the holes about 10 times wider and no more whistle. Hits much smoother and I don't have to power suck the vapor out anymore. I used a diamond burr and my proxxen rotary tool.
(Ground horizontal as to not grind the threads)
(There are 2 air intake holes on each side)
Also there is a small rubber tube in the mouth piece. It originally sticks out and fits into the top hat for a better seal but most tanks brand new just have it pushed deep into the mouth piece. Removing the rubber seal also improves air flow.
Making larger intake holes does lessen suction on the wick (juice delivery) but the narrow tube design allows for plenty suction.
(Ground horizontal as to not grind the threads)
(There are 2 air intake holes on each side)
Also there is a small rubber tube in the mouth piece. It originally sticks out and fits into the top hat for a better seal but most tanks brand new just have it pushed deep into the mouth piece. Removing the rubber seal also improves air flow.
Making larger intake holes does lessen suction on the wick (juice delivery) but the narrow tube design allows for plenty suction.
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The main air restriction on all vivi novas is the small 1mm hole in the coil head that goes thru the brass positive connecter under the coil, if you don't open that up all the other holes don't really matter. The 1mm hole not only makes a tight draw but after a few tanks of juice it tends to get clogged with congealed juice. I drill all my heads to 1.5mm and no need to do the ones on the threads as the total of those two is greater than the hole in the head. Clean the hole under the coil with every new coil installation.
It worked, before it was like breathing through a coffee straw. Increased the draw quite a bit and fixed the whistling, I see what you mean though. The internal brass grommet and the external air intake are both 1mm. So if you wanted to improve the draw a lot I imagine boring both wider would be more effective. The reason I didn't want to bore the center brass grommet wider is because i wanted to keep some suction for the wick.
Like this
your pics are so large and clear, I don't know what I'm looking at lol. Ironic isn't it
your pics are so large and clear, I don't know what I'm looking at lol. Ironic isn't it
Cyrus, what you are looking at is the battery connection with the centre post removed and the teeny wheeny air hole drilled a bit larger.
I see, but is that a hole in the inner wall at 12 o'clock?
Oh duh, LOL never mind. I forgot how those vivi batt connectors were set up, I haven't used mine in a while!
Oh duh, LOL never mind. I forgot how those vivi batt connectors were set up, I haven't used mine in a while!
Guys, I did not read the entire 44 page to find my answer, so i will post it here, help me out if you can.
I just recently did a cotton rebuid to my heads, after few attempts, I have found the right setup.
The problem I am having is that when I have the rubber seal cylinder on, twist cap back on, it draws but I only get a tiny vapor, I would have very strong raw flavor. So i took the rubber cylinder off, twist cap back on, whoa huge vapor, flavor is perfect ratio.
Any idea why it is doing that? Btw i have the 2.5 version. 5 wraps of Kanthal 32ga to produce a 2.1-2.4 ohm.
I just recently did a cotton rebuid to my heads, after few attempts, I have found the right setup.
The problem I am having is that when I have the rubber seal cylinder on, twist cap back on, it draws but I only get a tiny vapor, I would have very strong raw flavor. So i took the rubber cylinder off, twist cap back on, whoa huge vapor, flavor is perfect ratio.
Any idea why it is doing that? Btw i have the 2.5 version. 5 wraps of Kanthal 32ga to produce a 2.1-2.4 ohm.
Sounds like you have an airflow problem with the cap on. Is it possible that your cap is pushing your wick down over the opening in the bottom of the atty head? Or perhaps the cap opening is not aligned with the end cap?
upon checking it again, it does appear to be pushing down on the wick but not by much, only about 1/4 of the wick is above the stopper line shoulder.
I do not see that would choke it up when putting the rubber cap on, but apparently it seems to do that.
Where the wick comes out the 'slots' is not your airflow problem. If there's too much cotton in the wick when it swells it can block the hole in in the top cap. When you have the top cap off, you have lots of airflow, when put back on, not so much airflow.
You still need to consider the wick coming out the slots so it isn't pinched and detracts from wicking, but you're no drawing air threw the slots.
edit: I've run into this if I put a cotton ball or overwick on top of the wick/coil. It swells and blocks airflow.
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