Vocab lesson?
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Was just reading about the eleaf i stick 75w and it looks like it would be the perfect startet mod for me and the hubby. I like the price also!! Lol.
Some of these you've seen in this thread already. Some, not. Some will have new definitions not presented before...
VV = Variable Voltage
VW = Variable Wattage
TC = Temperature Control (most commonly used with Ni200 [nickel], Ti1 [Titanium #1], and SS316L [Stainless Steel... but there are several grades... 304, 316, 317, 430]).
RBA = General term for all rebuildable aromizers.
RDA = Rebuildable Dripping Atomizers. These almost always require user built coils. Exceptions include the Wanko RDA, the Vexus RDA, the Subdrip RDA, and the Coral RDA. A more typical example would be the Twisted Messes RDA.
RTA = Rebuildable Tank Atomizers. The Griffin is a popular RTA.
Clearomizers/Clearos = Tanks that use replaceable coil heads more than 1 ohm. Some of these have abailable rebuildable heads (RBAs). Kanger's Protanks and Aspire's Nautilus fall into this category.
Subohm Tanks = Tanks the use replaceable coil heads less than 1 ohm. Many of these come with rebuildable (RBAs) sections, too. The Subtank from Kanger and the Atlantis from Aspire started this craze.
Genesis Atomizer/Gennies = Rebuildable Tank Atomizers typically built with stainless steel cable or mesh in place of cotton, rayon, or silica wicking. Although basically obsolete, there are a lot of die-hard gennie fans. An example of this style is the Kraken.
RDTA = Rebuildable Dripping Tank Atomizer. These began as RDAs with integrated pumps for feeding e-liquid. The Big Dripper was ine of these. Then, there was a class of tanks that featured RDA style decks and e-liquid feeding systems in a standard RTA form. The Aromamizer fell into this class. Now, many consider them as RDAs with tanks underneath and holes in the deck for wicking. An example of this would be the Limitless Plus RDTA.
Mech/Mechanical = Mods without circuitry or wiring. These devices have no safety features and should only be used by advanced vapers. As the charge drops, the vape gets weaker. The Nemesis was a popular mech mod. Mechs are most commonly single cell devices, but there are multi-cell mods such as the Raptor and Noisy Cricket.
Unregulated = Mods that behave like mechs, but have integrated safeties. Sometimes they offer onboard charging, as well. The Kanger Dripbox is unregulated as is the Tesla Invader II.
18650/26650/18350 etc = These are all types of lithium ion batteries. The first two digits indicate the diameter and the second two indicate the length. The final digit indicates the shape. An 18650 is 18 mm x 65 mm x round. Battery tech deserves far more than I can provide here... look up Mooch's blogs and tests... I will go on record stating that only high drain, safe chemistry (IMR), authentic batteries from known manufacturers (Sony, Samsung, LG) and purchased from trusted sources should be used. Avoid eBay/Amazon and brands such as eFest, Trustfire, Imren, MXJO, etc.
Lipo = Another battery tech. These are typically integrated internal batteries.
mAh = MilliAmp Hours is a measurement of the batteries life. The more mAh, the longer the battery will last. Currently, there are no batteries suitable.for vaping with a mAh rating more than 3000.
Voltage = Most batteries are rated at their nominal voltage. 3.6-3.7 is nominal for Lithium Ion batteries. That voltage is not constant. A fully charged cell is typically 4.2 volts and a fully discharged cell is about 3.2 volts (the low end varies a bit) Charging above, or discharging below those thresholds can damage the battery.
Amps = The amount of current the battery can safely provide.
CDR = Continuous Discharge Rating. This is the amperage a battery can safely provide on a continuous basis (from full to empty). Note that there are no batteries suitable for vapers rated above 30 amps currently available.
Series = Batteries run in series double voltage without affecting battery life or amperage. Two 30 amp/1500 mAh/3.7 V cells in parallel will produce between 8.4 volts (full charge of 4.2 x 2) and run down to around 6.4 volts at 30 amps for 1500 mAh.
Parallel = Batteries run in parallel double the battery life and amperage, but not the voltage. Two 30 amp/1500 mAh/3.7 v cells in parallel will produce between 4.2 volts and run down to about 3.2 volts at up to 60 amps for 3000 mAh.
Writer's Cramp = what I have right now... more later... hope this helps rather than confuses, and can serve as a reference for you.
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VV = Variable Voltage
VW = Variable Wattage
TC = Temperature Control (most commonly used with Ni200 [nickel], Ti1 [Titanium #1], and SS316L [Stainless Steel... but there are several grades... 304, 316, 317, 430]).
RBA = General term for all rebuildable aromizers.
RDA = Rebuildable Dripping Atomizers. These almost always require user built coils. Exceptions include the Wanko RDA, the Vexus RDA, the Subdrip RDA, and the Coral RDA. A more typical example would be the Twisted Messes RDA.
RTA = Rebuildable Tank Atomizers. The Griffin is a popular RTA.
Clearomizers/Clearos = Tanks that use replaceable coil heads more than 1 ohm. Some of these have abailable rebuildable heads (RBAs). Kanger's Protanks and Aspire's Nautilus fall into this category.
Subohm Tanks = Tanks the use replaceable coil heads less than 1 ohm. Many of these come with rebuildable (RBAs) sections, too. The Subtank from Kanger and the Atlantis from Aspire started this craze.
Genesis Atomizer/Gennies = Rebuildable Tank Atomizers typically built with stainless steel cable or mesh in place of cotton, rayon, or silica wicking. Although basically obsolete, there are a lot of die-hard gennie fans. An example of this style is the Kraken.
RDTA = Rebuildable Dripping Tank Atomizer. These began as RDAs with integrated pumps for feeding e-liquid. The Big Dripper was ine of these. Then, there was a class of tanks that featured RDA style decks and e-liquid feeding systems in a standard RTA form. The Aromamizer fell into this class. Now, many consider them as RDAs with tanks underneath and holes in the deck for wicking. An example of this would be the Limitless Plus RDTA.
Mech/Mechanical = Mods without circuitry or wiring. These devices have no safety features and should only be used by advanced vapers. As the charge drops, the vape gets weaker. The Nemesis was a popular mech mod. Mechs are most commonly single cell devices, but there are multi-cell mods such as the Raptor and Noisy Cricket.
Unregulated = Mods that behave like mechs, but have integrated safeties. Sometimes they offer onboard charging, as well. The Kanger Dripbox is unregulated as is the Tesla Invader II.
18650/26650/18350 etc = These are all types of lithium ion batteries. The first two digits indicate the diameter and the second two indicate the length. The final digit indicates the shape. An 18650 is 18 mm x 65 mm x round. Battery tech deserves far more than I can provide here... look up Mooch's blogs and tests... I will go on record stating that only high drain, safe chemistry (IMR), authentic batteries from known manufacturers (Sony, Samsung, LG) and purchased from trusted sources should be used. Avoid eBay/Amazon and brands such as eFest, Trustfire, Imren, MXJO, etc.
Lipo = Another battery tech. These are typically integrated internal batteries.
mAh = MilliAmp Hours is a measurement of the batteries life. The more mAh, the longer the battery will last. Currently, there are no batteries suitable.for vaping with a mAh rating more than 3000.
Voltage = Most batteries are rated at their nominal voltage. 3.6-3.7 is nominal for Lithium Ion batteries. That voltage is not constant. A fully charged cell is typically 4.2 volts and a fully discharged cell is about 3.2 volts (the low end varies a bit) Charging above, or discharging below those thresholds can damage the battery.
Amps = The amount of current the battery can safely provide.
CDR = Continuous Discharge Rating. This is the amperage a battery can safely provide on a continuous basis (from full to empty). Note that there are no batteries suitable for vapers rated above 30 amps currently available.
Series = Batteries run in series double voltage without affecting battery life or amperage. Two 30 amp/1500 mAh/3.7 V cells in parallel will produce between 8.4 volts (full charge of 4.2 x 2) and run down to around 6.4 volts at 30 amps for 1500 mAh.
Parallel = Batteries run in parallel double the battery life and amperage, but not the voltage. Two 30 amp/1500 mAh/3.7 v cells in parallel will produce between 4.2 volts and run down to about 3.2 volts at up to 60 amps for 3000 mAh.
Writer's Cramp = what I have right now... more later... hope this helps rather than confuses, and can serve as a reference for you.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
The eLeaf Pico 75w is a Great Mod. I have one and I Really Like it.
I don't have the Melo 3 Tank that comes in the Kit. But I have heard that it is a Nice Tank.
The Pico IS a nice mid-range mod with but one caveat... you cannot use tanks with a diameter of more than 23 mm unless you use some funky workarounds. It fires from 5 up to 75 watts, and from to .1 to 3 ohms (.05 to 1 on TCR modes). It features Temperature Control presets for Ni200, Ti1, and SS316L, as well as three user adjustable TCR values for use with alternate TC capable wires.
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The Melo 3 tank is also nice. It uses Atlantis style coils (lots of those avaialble and not going away any time soon), has an available RBA head, and offers top filling. The tank that comes with the kit is the Melo 3 Mini and only has a 3 ml (I think) capacity.
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the aleternative to that setup is the one i used... kanger topbox mini starter it's also a 75w, but it depends on how you vape somewhat, it can be both sub ohm or above ohm, but is a bit airy for some MtLers.
Yup... bstteries are the part that can go boom if not treated/used properly. Do not let that scare you, though. If you use one of the batteries from Mooch's list, you'll likely be fine...
In a pinch, go for the middle ground and get either the Samsung 25R, LG HE2/4, or Sony VTC5a. For longer life at lower wattages, the LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q are great. For shorter life but MORE POWER <grunt grunt grunt> get the LG HB2/4/6.
Get them from lionwholesale.com or imrbatteries.com - two very trusted suppliers with great prices - to avoid getting counterfeits.
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The only con to the topbox/Subox mini mods is the finish. Kanger is notorious for paint jobs that flake and chip easily. There is a Subox Platinum edition in stainless steel.
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yes
heh as you can see from my pic... i solved the issue... i painted mine, but my mechanic hubby destroyed the finish on his black one(he took it to work after all) and the red one maintained it actually(till hubby dropped it).. it's the black that has issues and that's common with a lot of mods sadly... the SS versions are gorgeous.
D'oh... forgot about the 510 issue with the original Subox...
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