I have seen many posts on various voltages and the "sweet spot" at 5v. Does any one know the Temperature of the coil at 5v, 6v, 3.7v? Does this account for the change in flavor or is it something else?
Voltage and Temperature
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Here is a link where this is answered with some circuit math:
How to accurately monitor the temperature of nichrome wire? - Yahoo! Answers
Note the comment about the environment dictating the temperature, as this is central here. It isn't so much the temperature of the coil when the atty is dry, which can be estimated by the glow color of the NiCr coil wire (dull red is lowest, white hot is highest), rather it is the operating temp while it is wet with e-juice that is important. This is harder to measure without knowing the thermodynamical properties of vaporizing e-juices...and juices can all be somewhat different.
The juice itself will pull heat away from the coil when the juice vaporizes, keeping the coil from reaching its maximum temp possible under the wattage conditions for that PV...the coil generally does not glow when wet, and its temp will not be a lot higher than the boiling point of the juice. VG juices can have a higher bp than PG juices, and so the coil will get hotter with them. But I don't think anyone has measured the actual temp when vaping. Even measuring the temp of the vapor boiling off would be only an estimate, since it cools quickly as it flows away from the coil.
I have not heard of the 5V "sweet spot". I personally am avoiding 5V with my normal 510 attys, as I think 5V kills attys faster. the reason I think this happens is that most 5V people drip only, as the carts can melt, and with dripping there is far more strain on the atty coil, either by direct decomposition of juice or allowing it to go dry. I think this would be solved somewhat with carts that can take the increased heat. It is also solved a bit with high-voltage attys, which have a higher coil resistance than regular 510 attys.
The heat from an atty coil really depends on wattage, not voltage. A regular 510 batt is a 3.7V batt, but puts less wattage through the coil than a 14500 3.7V batt, since it is much less capacity and puts out less current. In fact, the operating coil voltage with the 14500 is close to 3.7V, while the regular 510 batt gives about 3.1V...and this makes a big difference in the vaping.
Joye 510 - E-Cigarette Forum
People in this forum have reported cart-melting problems with using a low-resistance atty on a 3.7V batt...these attys are supposed to mimic the 5V experience by creating a similar wattage through the coil as a 5V device would. But if an atty is melting heat-resistant silicone (the poster used the ZFM mod), then it is almost certainly causing thermal reactions in the juice, and I don't like that at all. You want boiling, not reacting!
So, in summary of this long-winded answer:
It depends on the wattage that the particular battery produces, which depends on the voltage and capacity (mAh) of the batt, and the resistance of the coil.
It depends on how wet it is and what the juice composition is.
The max temp of the coil can be estimated by its glow color, but it never gets that high when vaping properly.
Hope this helps!
How to accurately monitor the temperature of nichrome wire? - Yahoo! Answers
Note the comment about the environment dictating the temperature, as this is central here. It isn't so much the temperature of the coil when the atty is dry, which can be estimated by the glow color of the NiCr coil wire (dull red is lowest, white hot is highest), rather it is the operating temp while it is wet with e-juice that is important. This is harder to measure without knowing the thermodynamical properties of vaporizing e-juices...and juices can all be somewhat different.
The juice itself will pull heat away from the coil when the juice vaporizes, keeping the coil from reaching its maximum temp possible under the wattage conditions for that PV...the coil generally does not glow when wet, and its temp will not be a lot higher than the boiling point of the juice. VG juices can have a higher bp than PG juices, and so the coil will get hotter with them. But I don't think anyone has measured the actual temp when vaping. Even measuring the temp of the vapor boiling off would be only an estimate, since it cools quickly as it flows away from the coil.
I have not heard of the 5V "sweet spot". I personally am avoiding 5V with my normal 510 attys, as I think 5V kills attys faster. the reason I think this happens is that most 5V people drip only, as the carts can melt, and with dripping there is far more strain on the atty coil, either by direct decomposition of juice or allowing it to go dry. I think this would be solved somewhat with carts that can take the increased heat. It is also solved a bit with high-voltage attys, which have a higher coil resistance than regular 510 attys.
The heat from an atty coil really depends on wattage, not voltage. A regular 510 batt is a 3.7V batt, but puts less wattage through the coil than a 14500 3.7V batt, since it is much less capacity and puts out less current. In fact, the operating coil voltage with the 14500 is close to 3.7V, while the regular 510 batt gives about 3.1V...and this makes a big difference in the vaping.
Joye 510 - E-Cigarette Forum
People in this forum have reported cart-melting problems with using a low-resistance atty on a 3.7V batt...these attys are supposed to mimic the 5V experience by creating a similar wattage through the coil as a 5V device would. But if an atty is melting heat-resistant silicone (the poster used the ZFM mod), then it is almost certainly causing thermal reactions in the juice, and I don't like that at all. You want boiling, not reacting!
So, in summary of this long-winded answer:
It depends on the wattage that the particular battery produces, which depends on the voltage and capacity (mAh) of the batt, and the resistance of the coil.
It depends on how wet it is and what the juice composition is.
The max temp of the coil can be estimated by its glow color, but it never gets that high when vaping properly.
Hope this helps!
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