Voltage drop noticeably better with Copper vs SS + Brass? Best 26650 battery

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tayone415

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Going for the Hades mod and would love to find the copper set up but cant seem to find the set up I like in all copper with the tapered down atty. My copper nemesis mod hits harder than any other mod I own so just wondering if there will be a noticeable difference?

Also whats the best 26650 battery for sub ohm vaping?




Best conductivity for the body of the mod is copper then brass then stainless steel. But, there are other factors like threading and the type of pins used ie: metals and if it's plated what it's plated over. I heard the authentic Hades has a bad voltage drop, but battery does have an affect on that too along with the atty not sure about a clone in copper, since I don't think there's an authentic copper mod. The best 26650 battery is the discontinued Sony 26650 with a 50 amp continious draw that is almost impossible to find and overpriced if you can find it. All I've seen in 15-20 amp continuous batteries, otherwise I'd pick up a 26650 mod myself.
 

tayone415

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I just ran across these earlier 40 amp continuous discharge $22.54 Authentic VAPPOWER IMR26650 3.7V 4200mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Batteries (2-Pack) 2-pack - 40A continuous discharge at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

They kind of look like my 18650 Panasonics which seem as good as Sony VTC4-5

I don't know the specs on the Panasonics, but going by looks doesn't mean it's the same or similar battery, ie: I have a Sanyo battery I use to use when I had a VV/VW mod, but the specs are no where close. I've never heard of that brand so I can't say if it's known and reparable or not. If it's not then you're taking a risk as some companies exaggerate specs. Another example is Efest's 30 AMP battery compared to a Sony VTC4 and VTC5 with a continious 30 amp. The Sonys hit harder, but the VTC4 hits harder than the VTC5.

I guess my question is is it gonna be a noticeable difference from copper to SS what's the typical v drop

Depending on your build's resistance and length of your vape you'll notice more of a resistance, being an ultra sub ohmer I can't use anything besides copper mods anymore and not even all copper mods since they don't hit as hard as another one does.
 

dice57

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The new IMREN IMR 26650 3600MAH 60A stats look nice. Right now the main contenders, now that Sony dropped out, are Efest Purple, Panasonic CGR26650A 50A, which are supposed to be the exact Sony batt, and the IMREN.

I picked up two 2-packs of the Imrens on sale for $20 on the Bay. Just check the same seller, they are now at $38 for 2. Imrens have a 60 amp max discharge rate, and a continuous of 42-45 amps. Least that's the stats from one sellers tests.

Haven't used them yet, just showed up today.

Far as mods go, so far, me best 26650 is the Tree of Life clone from FT. Have the Helmsman and Big Nasty also, with the Copper Mutant and i-Gigantic on the way. Like everything about the Nasty, except the voltage drop. But sometimes comes in handy, breaking in an super low sub ohm build.

The Helmsman is nice, but a Nemie like switch on a 26650, is just so like crap for batts that diameter. They'll like wobble bobble head mech mods when not locked. Then mags usually not strong enough if the Big Kayfun/Russian, or Arnold are on top. Prefer the center push switch on large mechs.

Find the main source of voltage drop on 26650's to be the 510 pin, some are so ill designed can't help but be a source of major volts lost. Saw the Mutant clone at the local B&M, and loved everything about it, so when the copper version finally hit, put me order in.

My best performer mech, hands down, and me fave mech, is the Stingray Copper Black by JD tech. Goes from locked to unlocked with 1/2 turn of the ring, very short switch throw, but mags are strong enough to stand on end with the full Russian or Flash-e-vapor riding on top.

Find that mods with silver contacts have better connectivity.
 

tj99959

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    Just pointing out that this is the noob section you guys are posting this stuff in.
    Please don't tell a noob that is still learning which is the positive end of a battery that it's OK to sub ohm.

    Might want to look at this.
    http://eddy-current.com/conductivity-of-metals-sorted-by-resistivity/
    Note that just because it's copper or SS doesn't mean much because not all copper or SS are created equal.

    With batteries just remember that it is necessary to know both the continuous and the pulse rating.
    I point this out because some (Efest for example) only state the pulse rating. (they just state the same thing two different ways hoping you won't notice) The pulse rating is normally about double the continuous rating.

    I would also point out that where you buy your batteries is as important as which battery you choose. There are way to many counterfeit batteries on ebay. Unfortunately it's the batteries that we want (high end) that are most likely to be counterfeited.
     

    DraganPDX

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    So would this be a good 26650 Battery - IMREN IMR 26650 HIGH DRAIN 60A BATTERY 3.7v Rechargeable Li-MN 3600mAh

    2 Imren IMR 26650 High Drain 60A Battery 3 7V Rechargeable Li MN 3600mAh New | eBay

    What do I want in a battery if I run sub ohm (.3ohm 5-6sec pulls)

    I ordered the Hades mod with tobh atty from fast tech took a week for the last order to arrive and the quality was pretty good other than the $6 IGO-W4 clone but it was $6 so no complaints still works pretty good other than the holes I drilled crocked and ruined the drip tip by trying to drill it too wide lol.
     

    Ryedan

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    Here's a great set of links to some good info: One Stop Reference Shop For New and Experienced Vapers. I suggest you read the battery links from Baditude and the one about Ohm's law and get familiar with the Ohm's law calculator.

    In a battery you want enough continuous amp draw capability to run the atty at the resistance you build at. 0.3 ohms will draw 14A with a fresh battery at 4.2V. I would use a IMR or hybrid battery rated at 20A at least but the more the better. mAh is not as important. I don't use 26650s myself, so I'm not familiar with them from personal experience so I'll leave that to other people that are.

    I would not buy a vape battery from Ebay. Our batteries are sometimes counterfeited and then you don't know what is really inside the wrapper and that can get really painful. I buy from Illumination Supply, RTD Vapor, Orbtronic and a couple other known good suppliers that will not sell counterfeits.
     
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    DraganPDX

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    Here's a great set of links to some good info: One Stop Reference Shop For New and Experienced Vapers. I suggest you read the battery links from Baditude and the one about Ohm's law and get familiar with the Ohm's law calculator.

    In a battery you want enough continuous amp draw capability to run the atty at the resistance you build at. 0.3 ohms will draw 14A with a fresh battery at 4.2V. I would use a IMR or hybrid battery rated at 20A at least but the more the better. mAh is not as important. I don't use 26650s myself, so I'm not familiar with them from personal experience so I'll leave that to other people that are.

    I would not buy a vape battery from Ebay. Our batteries are sometimes counterfeited and then you don't know what is really inside the wrapper and that can get really painful. I buy from Illumination Supply, RTD Vapor, Orbtronic and a couple other known good suppliers that will not sell counterfeits.

    So something like this?
    KeepPower IMR 26650 4200mAh 50amp - RTD vapor

    Desnt look like Orbtronic has anything higher than 20amp continuous discharge
     

    Ryedan

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    So something like this?
    KeepPower IMR 26650 4200mAh 50amp - RTD vapor

    Desnt look like Orbtronic has anything higher than 20amp continuous discharge

    I would not have any problem getting that battery however I believe it's only good to 20A also. Here's a review from a guy who really knows his batteries. I have the feeling most of the higher amp 26650 batteries are hard to get right now. Watch out too, some companies inflate their numbers and use the burst spec as the continuous rating like Keepower did here. Efest is also known to do this.

    I like to stick with Sony, Samsung, Panasonic, MNKE, basically the known brands that I trust. However at 0.3 ohms, you're not pushing a 20A battery too hard and as long as they really are IMR or hybrid chemistry you're reasonably assured they will not burn if they short.
     
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