voltage new and few queations

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Gnardays

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hey im really new to the whole vaping experience ive seen a lot of models differing in voltages and im just wondering on the perks of vaping with the different volts. feel free to redirrect me i looked and couldnt find much

1) perks of certain volts?

2) good VV batteries?

3) all time favorite battery and why?

Thanks everyone
 

dormouse

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1) more volts can get more heat out of the same atomizer or cartomizer. More heat is more vapor and hotter hit. In practice - you have a single voltage battery and you put lower or higher resistance (ohms) attachments on it to get the warmth or heat you want (this is applicable to FAT batteries and mods since slim ecigs should only use standard resistance). However, there is a limit of how low resistance an atomizer or cartomizer you can put on any particular voltage or it will just pop or singe. So practically speaking there is less difference than you would think. On any voltage, some resistances will be considered standard res and be warm and some lower ohms will be consider LR and be hot. Like a 3.0 ohm atty on a 3.4v battery will be barely warm but a 3 ohm atty on a 6V battery will be very hot. A 1.8 ohm atty on 3.5v battery will be hot but if you put it on a 6v battery it will just pop.

In the world of slim ecigs, I think the hottest is KR808D-1 (3.7v slim mini) with cartos around 2.5 ohms (like Vapor4Life WOW cartos, and Bloog/Volt cartos come close but not as hot with that bottom coil)


2) variable lets you apply different voltage to the same atomizer or cartomizer. So you can crank up the heat to your desired level, within reason (go too far for any particular ohms atty or carto and you may fry it)

3) So far? I have nothing exotic or high voltage. For me any real 3.7v battery. KR808D-1 for the slim ones, Riva 510 from Liberty-Flights.com (their kits are now 3.7v), 3.7v mod boxes (each uses one 14500), the 3-stage clone Ego (3.2, 3,7, 4,2v). But honorable mention to the Joye 510 mega xl manual battery which is just darn nice with a Boge 3 ohm carto - just warm, vapory and pleasant w/ nice flavor.
 
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keydcuk

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Different attys/cartos have different sweet spot voltages.

For VV I prefer safe chemistry batt like IMR w/ separate external fuse.
When protected batts are stacked the protection circuit can kick in if discharging at different rates.

Easiest to use is dual coil on a powerful VVPV.

My all day is 3ohm CE2 at 3.7v.

My homemade passthrough runs at around these specs... makes me a bit of a vapaholic at home!! :vapor::blush:
 

tj99959

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    ive seen a lot of models differing in voltages

    Ya and IMHO it gets overdone and over rated.

    You will be far better served by learning what resistance atties/cartos to use at whatever voltage you choose to use.
    The wrong atty at your 'right' voltage is a lousy vape.

    add:
    I use LR Boge cartos on my eGo all the time. use a drip tip with them (or most anything else) and you won't burn your lip.
     
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    5cardstud

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    If your using 16340 batteries you can't get better than the New Powerizer batteries. Here is some testing data and a link to the thread.
    http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...7683-battery-tests-total-test-results.bt2.pdf

    http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...1314307698-battery-tests-battery-test-doc.pdf

    http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/217475-battery-tests.html?highlight=powerizer

    Some cartomizers and juices too work better at different voltages. I started with a 510 and then went through all the ecigs and mods but when I got the Buzz Pro from notcig I found how much better vaping is at different volts. I couldn't go back to fixed voltages for nothing. Different voltages mean different heat. With the Buzz Pro I can set the heat level where the carto I'm using needs to be to get the ultimate vape.
     
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    dormouse

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    For someone above - you can click on other people's signature banners and some will take you to where you can make one like that. Then you generate the BBcode. Then (since you already have 15+ posts and an hour's wait) you click Settings upper right, then down the left click Edit Signature, paste the BBCode in the text signature box, and Save
     

    wv2win

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    5 volt PV's with standard resistence atomizers or cartomizers or with dual coil cartomizers will provide much warmer and fuller vapor than any 3.7 volt PV. LR attys on a 3.7 volt do provide warmer vaper, but most of us who have been doing this for a while have found that it still isn't as good or consistent as a good 5 volt PV. Plus LR attys just don't hold up as well as standard resistence attys do.

    Variable volt PV's give you the best flexibility so you can use just about any atty or carto and set it to what you like. But not all VV PV's are equal. I would not get a VV PV if it didn't have "regulated boost circuit" technology. This technology keeps the battery operating as if it just came off the charger for the length of the charge. There is no reduced performance due to the battery being half drained.

    For many, 4.5 volts to 5 volts, using either standard or dual coil attomizers/cartomizers is the "sweet spot" for vaping because it provides warmer vapor than 3.7 volts but does not get two hot or burn the eliquid.

    And I have used 3.7 volt, 5 volt, 6 volt and variable volt PV's and every atty sized made as well as about 6 different type of cartomizers and a couple of tanks.
     

    jessietan

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    emus

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    Will 5V shorten the life of a standard 510 or Ego atty/cartomizers (>2 ohms) badly? I am wondering because I am thinking of making a cheap passthru myself using a standard 5V or 4.5V ac adapter....

    Should be ok if coil not defective and you are careful not to hold button too long.
    Slag buildup can insulate and cause coil over heating.
     

    MTV

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    volts are only the beginning of the equation...in ecigs the ohms of the carto/atty carry a great deal of weight...the final product is the watts...volts*volts/ohms = watts...I like around 12 to 15...some around 7 or 8...you decide:)

    For the correct ohms most people use 1/2 watts...so for 6v...use 3ohm attys or there abouts
     

    keydcuk

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    I made my own DYI passthrough with the spares of my broken RN4081 which is about 3 ohms but if I plug it into my computer USB port, the voltage is slightly to much for me to get a decent taste, sometimes tastes a bit burnt so I don't use it or bypass it which a USB chargeable battery that runs at around 3.7 volts(ish) and it's a nice sweet post but I feel I can get this better. I might try niMh or Lion rechargeables and see what difference I can get by using either 3 or 4 batteries as I will get my 3.6 or 4.8v depending.

    I might look into a drop voltage variable resistor in my circuitry :)
     
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    JW50

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    volts are only the beginning of the equation...in ecigs the ohms of the carto/atty carry a great deal of weight...the final product is the watts...volts*volts/ohms = watts...I like around 12 to 15...some around 7 or 8...you decide:)

    For the correct ohms most people use 1/2 watts...so for 6v...use 3ohm attys or there abouts

    12 to 15 watts sounds like way too many watts to me. Maybe wrong on the too many and perhaps just a taste kind of difference. But perhaps the 12/15 is a calculation of watts based on unloaded volts. Actual watts should be based on loaded voltage. PWM (pulsed width modulation) also affects the watts calculation. Joye eGo batts use PWM. Think watts calculation for PWM type batts is loaded volts squared divided by resistance divided by duty rate where the loaded voltage used in this calculation is the measured DC voltage. For the Joye eGo batts believe the duty rate changes over the discharge cycle from about 0.82 (just off charger) to 1.0 (at cut-off). Measured DC loaded voltage for Joye eGo style batts is constant throughout the discharge cycle but watts still decline from a peak just off charger to lesser values as discharge occurs but declines for the non-PWM batts are even more evident and perceptible. When watts calculated on basis of loaded voltage, personally find anything in excess of about 7 watts to be excessive and poor tasting. But this does point to some of advantages of variable voltage devices. Set the voltage to the voltage that fits ones tastes and vary it further as discharge occurs to continually match ones taste. Also, attys tend to change in resistance with use and VV devices allow for compensation to such changes - to a degree - as well.
     

    MickeyRat

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    Voltage really should have nothing to do with it as the right coil resistance compensates...

    Not really. I've been through this before. To use the same watts at a lower voltage, there is less coil surface area. So the coil itself is hotter. That does make a difference. It's a matter of taste. Would you say that a steak cooked at 300 degrees would taste the same as a steak cooked at 1000 degrees if you used the same number of watts?
     

    JW50

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    Many of us who use the variable volt Darwin, find that we vape most at 8.5 watts which with many atomizers/cartomizers equate to 4.5 - 5.0 volts (standard resistence). The exception of course is dual coil cartos. 12 - 12.5 watts is regularly used with them which puts the volts around 4.2 - 4.4 volts.

    Awesome that watts can be specified on a Darwin. 12 to 12.5 watts on dual coil suggests something like 6 to 6.25 watts per coil (presuming equality of each coil). That would be ~ 30% below the 8.5 number. Wondering what it is in delivery/mechanics of the dual arrangement that makes the lower heat at each coil seem equivalent to the higher number. Perhaps condensation differences or cooling differences that occur in time period from coil to mouth/throat or differences in vapor to air mixtures between the two. Is the 8.5 number a perception or have surveys of some type been taken that evidence widespread acceptance of the 8.5 number? Does a Darwin seem to extend the life of an atty?
     
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