Voltage or wattage ?

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mrdfield

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So what does everyone use volts or watts I have been vaping
For a year now and started out just using watts Recentally i started
Fooling around with voltage and i seem to like the way you can fine tune your vape just wondering others thoughts
I own a MVP 2, I taste vv , a Vtr , and a cool fire 1

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Mapultz

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It's just a matter of preference. I prefer VW because I have a large number of toppers at any given time, and it's a pain to change the voltage every time I switch. Whereas I generally stay between 7-8 watts, so when I change toppers, I don't always have to change the setting.

This was especially annoying when I had the ego-c twist and had to remember in my head what the ohms on every topper was, so I could adjust the voltage correctly. Not as big a deal on the itaste vv or similar that reads ohms for you.
 

Completely Average

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If you adjust to whatever tastes the best to you....watts or volts are just two different methods of getting to the same place....:laugh:

WRONG.

Watts gives you finer control. Volts is very clumsy and not very accurate in comparison. If you adjust by wattage then you can make changes as small as 0.03 volts, which you cannot do by adjusting voltage.

In otherwords, wattage can take you places that voltage cannot reach.

For example:

Let's say you and I are running the same 1.5ohm coil. Now, let's say that the "perfect" operating setting for this coil is 8 watts.

If you're setting by wattage then you simply set 8 watts.

If you're setting by voltage then it cannot be done. 3.4 volts will give you 7.7 watts and 3.5 volts will give you 8.166 watts. If you're adjusting by voltage you have no way of running the coil at 7.8, 7.9, 8.0 or 8.1 watts. You lose 4 possible settings because you're adjusting by voltage.


If you only use one type topper watts will work well, if you use a variety of BCC, Gennys, RDA, cartos, attys then volts make it a bit easier...:vapor:

This is even more wrong than your first claim.

If you want to run a 1.1 ohm coil, a 1.5 ohm coil, and a 2 ohm coil all at 8 watts then you set the wattage to 8 watts and forget about it.

If you are adjusting by voltage then you'll have to change the voltage for each coil. If you leave the voltage set for the 1.5 ohm coil then the 1.1 ohm coil will be burning your juices and your 2 ohm coil won't run hot enough for good vapor production.

Which is easier? One setting that works with every topper and coil you can throw at it, or having to change your settings with every new topper and coil?
 
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Jeffk123

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i own a mvp 2. and a provari
if i vape in vw anything over 9.5 is to hot for my coils
why do some people want to vape at 15 watts
I wouldn't know I vape at 20+ watts, its all about airflow on those higher wattage mods, mostly its for drippers, I can run my RDA at 25watts and be chuckin clouds and getting some sick flavor, I put my russian or protank on and vape at 20+ watts Its going to be fried juice and burnt wick. I love VW VV is to much to fiddle with I wanna set it and forget it.
 

Stosh

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WRONG.

Watts gives you finer control. Volts is very clumsy and not very accurate in comparison. If you adjust by wattage then you can make changes as small as 0.03 volts, which you cannot do by adjusting voltage.

Perhaps if you reaqd the OPs post, using an MVP 2 -- the specs say..
Variable Wattage: Wattage can be adjusted from 6.0 – 11.0 W in .5 watts increments

This is even more wrong than your first claim.

If you want to run a 1.1 ohm coil, a 1.5 ohm coil, and a 2 ohm coil all at 8 watts then you set the wattage to 8 watts and forget about it.

Reading is fundamental....if you run a strict 1.8Ω resistance on a variety of BCC, Gennys, RDA, cartos, attys, the vapor is NOT going to be the same at 8 watts because of the differences in air flow, wicking ability, space around the coil, juice flow, residential heat. The same wattage only works the same on same or very similar toppers.
 

Completely Average

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Perhaps if you reaqd the OPs post, using an MVP 2 -- the specs say..
Variable Wattage: Wattage can be adjusted from 6.0 – 11.0 W in .5 watts increments

Perhaps if you framed your answer in such a way that it was clear that it ONLY pertained to the MVP2 and would be wrong when applied to virtually any other mod, then what you said might have been correct.

But you didn't, so it wasn't. What you said was wrong, and you're just going to have to learn to accept that.




Reading is fundamental....if you run a strict 1.8Ω resistance on a variety of BCC, Gennys, RDA, cartos, attys, the vapor is NOT going to be the same at 8 watts because of the differences in air flow, wicking ability, space around the coil, juice flow, residential heat. The same wattage only works the same on same or very similar toppers.

Understanding is even more fundamental.

The voltage has to be changed with ANY change. PERIOD. Even if I am limited to only keeping the same wattage on "similar" toppers that is still less complicated than having to change the voltage every single time without exception.

There isn't a single case where you can keep the same voltage. You even have to change it using the same topper and a coil of just .1ohm less. With wattage, I don't. Which is easier?
 
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rurwin

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It's down to individual perceptions, but power varies with the square of the voltage. So generally wattage will be easier to get a feel for than voltage.

The rule of thumb that says wattage is set and forget is of course wrong, but it varies less and in a more intuitive manner than voltage. Having said that, neither of them are that hard to get a feel for; if your feel is for voltage, then fair enough.
 

DKP#

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Volts
VW seems gimmicky to me.
The difference .1 volts makes is minimal and I get a LOT more performance difference between a full and empty tank. Not sure why anybody would want 4 settings in that range.
Watts being consistent between attys or builds is nonsense. There's a big difference in wire temperature between 28ga nichrome and 32ga kanthal builds of the same resistance.
I can also put my atty on an ego and set it to my usual voltage when I want something small for portability or stealth vaping.
When I get a mech, I'll have a feel for how my preference relates to volts/ohms that I wouldn't have using VW.
 

rurwin

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It is interesting that people think either volts or watts is a finer adjustment.

In fact it depends on the voltage and on the resistance. The normal volts varying by 0.1 and watts varying by 0.5 makes them about the same for the normal range of commercial toppers -- 1.5 to 2.4 ohms and 3 to 4 volts.

At 1.5 ohms, watts change by between 0.4W and 0.54W for each 0.1V change.
At 2.0 ohms, watts change by between 0.3W and 0.4W for each 0.1V change.
At 2.4 ohms, watts change by between 0.24W and 0.31W for each 0.1V change.

But at 1 ohm, watts change by between 0.61W and 0.79W for each 0.1V change, and going from 5V to 5.1V adds 1 watt.

So at low ohms or high volts, watts is more controllable, whereas at high ohms and low volts, volts is more controllable. But they are always close enough to not be a factor of two out unless you have an extreme build. It's going to be three clicks of voltage equal to two clicks of wattage or vice versa.
 

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Stosh

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Perhaps if you framed your answer in such a way that it was clear that it ONLY pertained to the MVP2 and would be wrong when applied to virtually any other mod, then what you said might have been correct.

But you didn't, so it wasn't. What you said was wrong, and you're just going to have to learn to accept that.

Excuse me...I didn't realize that the MVP, Vamo, Tesla and VTR that all use .5 watt adjustment were that unpopular, nobody uses such poor PVs that don't adjust 0.1 watts. They seem to be rather common, admit your first post was blowing smoke about a subject you have little understanding of.

Watts and or volts are just numbers that make it easier to keep track of where the best flavor and vapor is for a particular topper and flavor.
 

bcameron

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Understanding is even more fundamental.

The voltage has to be changed with ANY change. PERIOD. Even if I am limited to only keeping the same wattage on "similar" toppers that is still less complicated than having to change the voltage every single time without exception.

There isn't a single case where you can keep the same voltage. You even have to change it using the same topper and a coil of just .1ohm less. With wattage, I don't. Which is easier?

This only shows that you have no understanding. At what point you want to set your voltage or wattage has everything to do with the build of the coil and not the ohms. For example:

A stock 1.6ohm dual coil on the Aspire Nautilus I can probably hit up to ~11 Watts before getting a burnt taste. I believe they use Nichrome wire.
A rebuilt single micro coil with cotton 28g Kanthal at 1.6ohm using the same Aspire Nautilus tank and head I have no problem hitting at 15 - 16 Watts with no burnt taste. Superior flavour and vapour.

As you can see both are 1.6ohm but because the difference in build allows me to hit at higher voltage or Watts.

Even when I was using stock coils I would always adjusting the wattage or voltage depending on the atty because no two coils are built the same. Kanger 1.8ohm is different than a 1.8ohm Aspire.


As fopr "The voltage has to be changed with ANY change. PERIOD." What do you think people with Mech mods do? You can't adjust the voltage. You can run coils ranging from .2-whatever. Voltage stays the same but wattage and amp draw can skyrocket.

Voltage or wattage setting is all personal choice.

The one good thing about using voltage is if your using low ohm coils like .8-1.2ohm. For example take the iTaste SVD. In wattage mode you are limited to 15Watts. But if you are using a 1.0 ohm coil you can set it to 4.5 volts and it will produce the 25Watts. It will use as much wattage as long as it doesn't draw more then the amp limit of the device.
 
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