Protank 2 burnt taste. Voltage/wattage questions.

[RubyRoo]

Be sure to check your wattage settings! Remember that on the MVP and any other VV/VW device, you can only adjust the wattage or the voltage, not both.

Be sure that you are giving your tank a few short, quick, unpowered primer puffs. You need to do this often when your tank is full so that the wicking "vacuum" can get started.

Be sure that you are using genuine Kanger heads, as the knockoffs tend to cause problems for people.

Try removing a flavor wick, or turning the silicone cup that covers the atomizer head upside-down to improve your wicking. Hope this helps!

 

[The Rebel]

YMMV with this tip, but it has worked for me so I'll throw it out there. Burnt, dry hits result from not enough juice getting to the coil and the coil burns the wicking material. The PT2 has quite an airy draw with four slots or holes around the base. The slots are meant to regulate the amount of juice drawn to the the coil when taking a hit produces suction. I've found that by covering one or more of the holes it makes a tighter draw which forces more juice to be drawn to the coil. Unless I double hit or really chain vape, I rarely get burnt or dry hits.

Might be worth a try. If it doesn't help I would suggest checking out the thread below. I made a couple of these coils and they work pretty good. No wicking issues and good flavor as well.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-micro-coil-build-aro-evod-protank-heads.html

 

[steel bender]

I was originally using Mt Baker menthol 24mg 80/20 blend when I got my MVP which came with the iclear 30. When I got my protank, I bought some NicQuid smooththol liquid, 24mg, and the guy said he thought it was like a 60/40 blend. After the head with that NicQuid starting tasting burnt, I put some new Mt Baker menthol, 24mg 65/35 blend in that replacement head which gave me that all day burnt taste. When I cleaned out the original head for the protank, I put the new 65/35 Mt Baker stuff in there.

Ok, so here's my guess from the issue I had with my protanks. With an 80/20 pg/vg blend, my protanks were flooding and leaking because the juice was too thin. I switched to a 50/50 blend, more vg=thicker juice) and all the leaking/flooding issues disappeared.

So if you were getting a burnt taste with the 60/40 or 65/35 blends, you may want to switch to back to the 80/20 blend you said you started with for improved wicking to get rid of those dry/burnt hits.

Also, it could just be the juice flavoring, some juices just can't take as much heat as others. The rubber grommet inside the atomizer head also can get "burnt" and no matter what you do that burnt flavor won't go away, but that's usually only after using it for a long time. You may want to look into rebuilding these heads, I feel the quality of the stock heads is rather poor.

For now, you may want to try a higher resistance head and only adjust one of your settings either volts or watts, until you get used to it. Start low and work your way up.

 

[playerbones]

Taking out the flavor wicks is what got my protank 2 to really rock.
Chain vaping with zero dry hits.

 

[Atwooooood]

With all vw/vv devices it is a one or the other power adjustment, you can not adjust the watt and volt output at the same time, whatever you adjusted last (V or W) is what it is set at when you take a vape.

So if you set it at 4.2 v then set it at 8w you're vaping at 8w or if you set it a 8w then set it at 4.2 volts you're vaping at 4.2v's.

6 watts powering 2.3 head = 3.71v = the reason it tasted like you want it to.
8 watts powering 2.3 head = 4.3 volts = the reason it tastes burnt.

Some flavorings & pg/vg ratios burn at lower temps than others = The reason for using a vv/vw power device, so the user can adjust the power to suit their individual tastes, juice flavor or pg/vg content and resistance of delivery device / equipment used.

In other words with that particular juice you need to turn the power down to prevent the burnt taste.

What you are saying makes sense, I guess I just misunderstood what I've heard about VV/VW devices when watching videos online. From what I understood, they could changed individually.

But let me ask you this, say that I hold down the button on the mod to change the voltage and I set it to 3.7 volts. Then I hold down the button to change the watts and it says that it is set to 6 watts and I increase it to 8 watts. After setting it at 8 watts, and holding down the button to check what the volts are set at, shouldn't the device show the increased voltage, or does the device just not do that? Because even after changing the watts to 8, and then just checking to see what the volts are set at, it still says the volts are set at 3.7 and not 4.3. I hope that I explained that clearly enough.

YMMV with this tip, but it has worked for me so I'll throw it out there. Burnt, dry hits result from not enough juice getting to the coil and the coil burns the wicking material. The PT2 has quite an airy draw with four slots or holes around the base. The slots are meant to regulate the amount of juice drawn to the the coil when taking a hit produces suction. I've found that by covering one or more of the holes it makes a tighter draw which forces more juice to be drawn to the coil. Unless I double hit or really chain vape, I rarely get burnt or dry hits.

Might be worth a try. If it doesn't help I would suggest checking out the thread below. I made a couple of these coils and they work pretty good. No wicking issues and good flavor as well.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-micro-coil-build-aro-evod-protank-heads.html

I have been interested in rebuilding heads for this tank, thank you for the link.

Taking out the flavor wicks is what got my protank 2 to really rock.
Chain vaping with zero dry hits.

One of the flavor wicks in the other head unraveled when I took them out to clean it, so I will soon see what difference that makes when I change heads.

And to everybody else, thank you for your input and help.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

When you hold down the button to check or adjust v or w it is actually changing the devices 'mode'.
When you set it to x watts then press and hold the button to check volts you have changed the devices 'mode' to volts.
Same goes when you set x volts then press and hold the button to check watts you have changed the devices 'mode' to watts.
It will provide power to the coil/vape in the last mode you selected.

The devise remembers your previous settings in each 'mode', that is why when you check either mode (vv or vw ) it is set where you set it previously.

 

[bhswmc01]

Topwater is exactly right. The whole VV/VW thing confused me at first, too, but now I'm a voltage girl. LOL

Also, are you checking the ohms on each new head that you put in? On my Protank 2, I got 2 heads - one was 2.5, the other was 1.8. That'll make a difference in your choice of volts/watts.

 

[Atwooooood]

When you hold down the button to check or adjust v or w it is actually changing the devices 'mode'.
When you set it to x watts then press and hold the button to check volts you have changed the devices 'mode' to volts.
Same goes when you set x volts then press and hold the button to check watts you have changed the devices 'mode' to watts.
It will provide power to the coil/vape in the last mode you selected.

The devise remembers your previous settings in each 'mode', that is why when you check either mode (vv or vw ) it is set where you set it previously.

That makes sense now. I will take this as a learning experience, as I have been vaping at 8 watts pretty much exclusively since I have had this MVP as that is usually the 2nd setting I change. Thank you for clearing that up for me, this new knowledge should vastly improve the problems I have been having.

Topwater is exactly right. The whole VV/VW thing confused me at first, too, but now I'm a voltage girl. LOL

Also, are you checking the ohms on each new head that you put in? On my Protank 2, I got 2 heads - one was 2.5, the other was 1.8. That'll make a difference in your choice of volts/watts.

I do check the ohms when I put in a new head. The first head I used on my Protank was a 2.3 ohm head and the replacement head was 2 ohms. If I had payed attention to the voltage chart that came with the Protank, that probably would have helped me as I was vaping the Protank at around 4.2 to 4.4 volts on both the 2.3 and 2 ohm heads, but I still wouldn't have known that you can't change the settings independently.

 

[KC33]

Is there a default power setting on the MVP? In other words when I set the Volts to 3.9, which I find to be my sweet spot, what is the power?

 

[Atwooooood]

Is there a default power setting on the MVP? In other words when I set the Volts to 3.9, which I find to be my sweet spot, what is the power?

I don't really understand what you are asking. As for the default setting, I have been curious about that as well. But when you say power, are you referring to the wattage? If so, I don't really know. The way Topwater explained it to me, the device doesn't interpret the change in volts to the wattage setting, as they are independent, and I do not know how to convert between the two.

 

[KC33]

What I mean is when I set the voltage it doesn't remember the wattage, so I'm wondering what it defaults to.

 

[Atwooooood]

As far as I am aware, it remembers the other setting even when I switch modes. If I set the wattage to 8 for example, and then switch to voltage mode and change that, the watts is still 8 when I go back to wattage mode.

 

[KC33]

Correct but the device doesn't recognize the wattage you've set it to once you go to voltage. The wattage still displays but it's using the voltage setting.

 

[Atwooooood]

No matter what setting I change, the other setting, whether volts or watts stays at the same number it was set to prior, so I really don't know how to determine the default setting. I am using an MVP v2 just so you know.